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Weirdly Famous

copyright 2014-2023, Jeff Napier


Table of Contents

Start Here

Jeff Bezos

Nikola Tesla

Aeschylus

This is a showcase site for Jeff Napier of US-Web-Design. Surprisingly low-cost solutions for all your website and marketing needs. More...

Wrong Way Wooten

Barack Obama

David Bushnell

The Wright Brothers

Michael Flatley

Ben Franklin

Sam Patch

Carry Nation

Edgar Rice Burroughs

Jane Lynch

Martha Stewart

Oprah Winfrey

Lea Michele

Richard Branson

Justin Timberlake

Miley Cyrus

Thomas Edison

Emile Coue

Albert Einstein

Chelsea Clinton

Hilary Clinton

P. T. Barnum

Adolf Hitler

Ferdinand Porsche

Henry Ford

Count Von der Wense

Frank Tower

Julian Whitaker

Arne Larsson

Charles Lindbergh

The Goofy Computer

Bob Hail

Alexander Labret

Jack Wurm

Dale Carnegie

Gary Beacom

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Table of Contents

This book presents the most interesting biographical tidbits as amusement and insights for personal growth. What can you learn from scientists, politicians, philosophers, celebrities, artists and others?

Enjoy, Jeff Napier, author

Jeff Bezos

Table of Contents




Jeff Bezos, via Etech05: Jeff

Jeff Bezos was born in 1954 as Jeffrey Preston Jorensen, in Albuquerque, New Mexico, to parents who divorced when he was one year old. When he was four, his mother married Miguel Bezos. Miguel had escaped Cuba on his own at age fifteen, worked his way through college, and became an engineer for Exxon.

Jeff grew up showing an early interest in science and technology. This was evident from the time he was a toddler when he took apart his crib with a screwdriver.

In his high school years, he worked summers on his uncle’s 25,000-acre ranch in Texas, mending fences, herding cattle, and all the things one does on a ranch. He probably picked up a solid work ethic in this activity with his uncle. While in high school, he got good grades, and won a science award.

His first business, created when he was still in high school, was The Dream Institute, an educational summer camp for children in fourth through sixth grade.

It was in high school that he was first exposed to computers. This was about ten years before home computers started appearing in significant numbers. He liked what he saw, and so he went on to Princeton, where in 1986 he earned a summa cum laude degree in computer science and electrical engineering.

From there, he took a number of jobs in New York consistent with his education, starting in computer engineering and within a eight years, he worked up to vice president of Bankers Trust. In the process, he learned a lot about computer networking, and started hearing more and more about this new thing called the World Wide Web.

It started with the US military. They built a web of interconnected computers called ARPANET (Advanced Research Projects Agency Network) so that the military could have the information they might need wherever they might need it in the event of an enemy attack. People in academics started finding this network very useful to share research, notes, and also personal messages. People started calling it the Internet. Netscape and other companies designed browsers making a major portion of the Internet useful and fun for ordinary people. This aspect of the Internet, consisting of files using HyperText Mark Up Language (HTML), better known as web pages, became the World Wide Web. Until then, there was no practical way to share pictures, sound, or even link to other articles on the web.

In 1994, hearing that Internet usage was growing by 2,300 percent per year, Jeff was one of the first to see an opportunity for online commerce.

He considered many possibilities for the first online retail products, and decided books suited the opportunity perfectly. So, why not provide a list of all available books, and provide a way for people to buy the books they want, then and there?

Jeff went to a booksellers’ convention in Los Angeles, where he discovered big booksellers already had compiled large databases of book titles. The biggest was a wholesaler called Ingram with a facility in Washington State.

Jeff was not the only person in the early nineties to imagine that this new network might be able to host commerce, but, unlike the others, he was willing to take big action.

In 1994, approximately a year after he married Mackenzie, also a Princeton graduate, he quit his job at a hedge fund, and ventured out as an entrepreneur.

He decided the State of Washington would be a good place to build his new business for three reasons. It was close to Ingram, where he could buy the books. Because of Intel and other high-tech companies, there were hundreds of computer experts that he could hire as needed. And, Washington had a small population. This was important because the Supreme Court had recently passed a ruling that online businesses were only required to collect sales tax from residents of states in which they had a physical presence, so there’d be less sales tax bookkeeping with Washington’s smaller customer base.

So, he and Mackenzie bought a two-bedroom house with a garage in Washington. They loaded up their car, and while she drove to Washington, he rode along typing up plans for Amazon.com on a laptop.

Why did he call it “Amazon?” According to Jeff, the business would be like the Amazon River, with seemingly endless tributaries.

When they arrived at their new home, he ran an extension cord out to the garage and set up three Sun workstations on tables made from doors laid across sawhorses. These workstations were computers somewhat more powerful than home computers of the era, capable of acting as web servers.

Jeff gathered $5 million from investors to start Amazon. These investors were brave souls, since Jeff told each and every one that he figured there was a seventy percent chance of failure. Among the investors were his mother and step-father. Their six percent of the company, which cost them $300,000, a major portion of their life savings, is now worth billions!

Once he completed the software, he asked three hundred friends and acquaintances to test the system. It worked well, so on July 16, 1995, he asked his beta testers to start talking up Amazon.com, and went live. Without doing anything else for publicity, or spending a penny on advertising, Jeff’s new business was already grossing $80,000 per month sixty days later. At the end of 1995, he had taken in $510,000 – just over a half-million dollars. This was not nearly enough to pay back investors yet, but it was a promising start. In fact, it took Amazon five years to make a profit.

Business continued to grow, and by 2011, he was taking in $17 billion per year. Amazon is the largest retailer on the Internet. And, as I’m sure you know, Amazon sells much more than books these days. You can buy anything from T-shirts to parts for industrial machinery at Amazon.com. Jeff says, “Our vision is the world’s most customer-centric company. The place where people come to find and discover anything they might want to buy online.”

Jeff has also done with well with his Kindle, originally a tablet-like device to display ebooks. The Kindle has since become more and more tablet-like, utilizing the Android operating system. The latest high-end Kindle Fire tablets claim to have a higher resolution, lighter weight, and are thinner than the Apple iPad, and do everything a tablet can do – plus you can still read books on them, of course. Perhaps you are using one right now.

As you probably know, free Kindle software is available so you can read the same ebooks on pretty much any device from smart phones to Mac and Windows computers.

The sales of Kindle ebooks has gone particularly well. 85 percent of the world’s eBooks are in Kindle format. In 2010, sales exceeded all Amazon hardcover book sales. Soon, Jeff expects ebooks to top softcover sales as well. Even though billions of dollars are being made for authors and for Amazon in Kindle ebook sales, one can get free ebooks from the Kindle store as well. Four thousand new free titles are being added every day.

One would think this will eventually crush the market for paid books. Who would pay money for a book, when there will be something nearly the same for free? But no doubt Jeff sees something on the horizon for his next profitable stage in this rapid evolution.

What kind of manager is Jeff? Obviously, he is astute on business matters. People say that he is generally a happy-go-lucky guy, but can be very interested in details. The term “micro-manager” has been connected with his name more than once.

Jeff’s current net worth is estimated at $29 billion. Still living in Seattle, he, Mackenzie and their four children do not want for groceries. With the change left over, Jeff has done some imaginative things.

He enjoys shopping for toys online and in brick and mortar stores.

He purchased the Washington Post (Washington D.C.) newspaper company.

In 2000, he started Blue Origin, a company dedicated to bringing space travel to the masses. The company bought many acres in Texas as a launching facility. They have a prototype rocket with passenger seats called New Shepard. Jeff visualizes amusement parks, space hotels and colonies of millions orbiting earth. He has had this vision since he was eighteen years old. At one point he imagined an earth in which everyone has moved out to space, leaving the planet free to recover as a pristine park.

He has had conversations with billionaire Richard Branson, founder of Virgin Records, Virgin Atlantic, and many other companies, to discuss cooperative space business opportunities, since one of Branson’s companies is Virgin Galactic, also dedicated to affordable space flight.

In what might be considered one of his most eccentric enterprises, Jeff Bezos spent $42 million for the construction of the “Clock of the Long Now.” This is a clock that is designed to last 10,000 years. It has some attributes to attempt to guarantee that it will be functioning a very long time from now. For instance, it must be maintainable with bronze age technology, must be fully transparent and understandable, and use a readily renewable energy source. After considering options, the decision was made that the Clock of the Long Now will be powered by a spring, wound by hand. All this will ensure that people of the future can keep it running even if they lose the technology we have today. It must be made from non-valuable materials, to discourage looting, yet keep very accurate time. Two small prototypes have been built. A full-scale prototype is being built on Jeff Bezos’ Texas ranch, and the final clock will be built in a remote location in Nevada.




The Clock of the Long Now

via Pkirlin

In December 2013 he made news again with an idea called Amazon Prime Air. He envisions a fleet of drones that can fly within ten miles (16 km) of an Amazon distribution center, carrying up to 5 pounds (2 kilograms) directly to customers within an hour of purchasing an item. He believes he can have Amazon Prime Air up and running within five years.

Jeff funded a project to find and recover original Apollo rocket engines from the ocean. His team has identified and retrieved an engine from Apollo 11, the first to land humans on the moon.

An interesting bit of Jeff Bozes trivia: He likes to buy four identical pairs of shoes at a time, and rotates them so they don’t wear out too soon.

His favorite books are Remains of the Day, a novel, and Built to Last, a business book.

Most recently, Jeff has been focusing on philanthropy. He tells us, “Giving away money takes as much attention as building a successful company,”

Nikola Tesla

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Nikola Tesla

Nikola Tesla was born in On July 10, 1856 to a Serbian Orthodox priest, and the daughter of a piest, in what is now Croatia. His mother was known for an especially strong memory, which she used to recite long poems, and an ability to make inventive household gadgets.

When Nikola was five, he lost his older brother. Some say he fell off a horse. But there is some indication that young Nikola may have pushed him down a set of stairs.

In school, Nikola excelled, especially in math.

At the age of seventeen, he came down with cholera, which is a severe diarrhea that kept him bed bound for nine months, and nearly killed him. His father who originally wanted him to become a priest said he’d send Nikola to engineering school, if only he could recover from the illness. That may have been a motivating factor! As he began to recover, he was faced with being drafted into the Austro-Hungarian army. Instead, he ran away to a small community where he could disappear in the forest for a while. While there, he read many books, including some by Mark Twain. He later said that being close to nature, and Mark Twain’s books, were instrumental in his recovery.

At age nineteen, he was able to enroll in a technical school. He was once again an exceptional student for his first two years. Then, he discovered gambling, rapidly became addicted, and lost his tuition money. In time, he was able to recover his losses, and he then quit gambling once and for all. However, he did drop out of college, and was never able to complete his education.

He took a couple of jobs as a draftsman, then became the chief electrician in the Budapest Telephone Exchange. While there he invented many small improvements in telephone technology. From there, he moved to France, where he became a designer for the Continental Edison Company,

At the age of 24 he emigrated to the United States to take a job working directly under Thomas Edison. During his ocean crossing, his luggage was stolen. Upon arrival, he had a small pack, some poems, a letter of recommendation, and a total of four cents.

He and Thomas Edison didn’t get along well, and soon Tesla was on his own. Their primary disagreement seems to be over whether household electricity should be DC – Direct Current – or AC – Alternating Current. DC is easy to produce, regulate, and transport short distances. AC can be transformed to a high voltage for transporting over greater distances and then stepped back down to a more tame voltage for use. The oscillating nature of AC can be utilized to control speeds, time events and run motors without troublesome commutators and brushes. It is also less dangerous than DC, because the one-way nature of DC causes muscles to tighten and stay tight. So, a person who is accidentally exposed to DC current by holding a wire or device is often unable to let go.

By the time Tesla came along, Edison was heavily invested into DC technology, and was reluctant to change, even though his generators had to be near the items consuming the electricity. Edison even staged fraudulent public demonstrations in which he electrocuted dogs with AC, but they somehow were unharmed by DC.

Tesla was a strong advocate of AC; not only the sixty cycles per second low-frequency, but very high frequencies, in which he could even transport electricity without wires. There is a famous photograph of his friend Mark Twain holding a glowing lightbulb in his bare hands.



Mark Twain holding Tesla’s lightbulb without batteries or wires

With all the interest in AC, electricity flowing through the air and all that, experimenters of the era were very close to figuring out that they could send signals, maybe even emulating the vibrations of human voice, through the air.

According to some, Nikola Tesla invented radio transmission of audio signals. There is no doubt he was awarded a US patent for the invention of radio. However, the patent was later revoked. The story is that several financiers lined up to support Guglielmo Marconi in a fraudulent attempt to claim him as the inventor, and Tesla simply did not have the funds to fight the legal battle.

In the same way that historians are unclear as to whether Nikola Tesla invented radio, or whether it was Marconi, there is doubt about the invention of X-ray technology.

What we do know is that Tesla was very interested in X-rays. In fact, once he got an X-ray machine built, he spent up to 45 minutes a day X-raying his head, figuring that the radiation was actually good for his brain. His X-ray equipment wasn’t the ‘clean’ X-ray machines of modern times. His X-ray tube was not well-tuned, so it threw out a lot of potentially dangerous power, including X-rays and all sorts of other radiation.

We also know that he was a bit imbalanced in certain ways. Today’s diagnosis might be ‘functioning obsessive-compulsive.’ For instance, he could not bear to be in the same room with someone wearing pearls. He was also a step counter. These people have various forms of a need to count their footsteps. In Tesla’s case, he was once observed walking around a restaurant three times, so that upon entering it would be the right number of footsteps. But, these afflictions seemed to have begun many years before his interest in X-rays.

He was the perfect ‘mad scientist’ in many ways. He tended to live by himself in hotels, staying for years in New York’s Waldorf Astoria. Every year, on his birthday, he would hold a press conference announcing and sometimes demonstrating his latest breakthroughs. Being quite a showman, and having invented some rather marvelous although unrefined technologies, he became world famous.

He had a tendency to announce many things that he couldn’t quite pull off, sometimes as if they already existed in functioning prototype stage, such as transmission of mechanical energy over infinite distances, location of underground minerals, and vertical takeoff and landing (VTOL) aircraft.

One of his unrealized inventions was a “peace ray” or a “death ray,” which he called a “teleforce.” This could destroy aircraft and land-based war machinery at a distance of hundreds of miles by projecting a beam of charged particles. Ayn Rand heard about this and utilized the idea in her book, Atlas Shrugged, calling it “Project X” or the “Thompson Harmonizer,” but based on sound waves.

In a typical Tesla statement about the peace ray, he said thirty-seven years after he announced it,
“But it is not an experiment . . . I have built, demonstrated and used it. Only a little time will pass before I can give it to the world.”

Being interested in high frequencies led him to the study of harmonics. He claimed he could make a device the size of a modern-day digital camera that when attached to the foundation of a building or bridge could shake it at just the right frequency to cause the structure to collapse.

To this day, people are intrigued with what he did, and what he might have done, if he had been given more money, assistance, and time. Many claims are made in the world of pseudo-science that relate back to Tesla in some way.

Some of his work, including his three hundred patents, brought him a big income. However, as much as he was an inventive genius, he was lacking in business skill. When he had money, he used every penny on additional experimentation. For instance, in Colorado Springs, he built a huge transmitter tower in an attempt to bounce radio signals around the world.



Nikola Tesla in his Colarado Springs laboratory



Tesla’s lab and tower in New York

Never completed, this tower was designed to transmit electricity wirelessly.

In 1915, it is said that the Nobel Prize in Physics was to be shared by Thomas Edison and Nikola Tesla, but at the last moment was awarded to two other scientists. This was because neither Edison or Tesla was willing to accept the prize after the other.

In the end, at age 86, he died penniless in a run down hotel room in New York City. Interestingly, agents of the US government came and confiscated all his notebooks immediately. According to a pbs.org article, one of the agents, after studying Nikola’s property for three days concluded:

“His [Tesla’s] thoughts and efforts during at least the past 15 years were primarily of a speculative, philosophical, and somewhat promotional character often concerned with the production and wireless transmission of power; but did not include new, sound, workable principles or methods for realizing such results.”

They found one box that was labeled as containing important parts of the “peace ray.” It turned out to contain nothing but a general-purpose variable resistor assembly.

Aeschylus

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Aeschylus, a Greek man born around 525 BC, lived for tragedy, and his death was an unusual tragedy. He is known by many scholars as the father of modern tragedy, having revolutionized the way plays were enacted on stage.

It is hard for us to understand from our modern perspective, but until then, plays were performed by the protagonist and a chorus only. In the case of ancient Greek plays, the chorus was a group representing the general population, and they functioned essentially as singing and dancing narrators. Evidently, the idea of having additional actors portraying antagonists never occurred to anyone until Aeschylus.

Although he came from a wealthy family, in his youth, he worked in a vineyard.

One day he had a vivid dream in which Dionysus, the god of the grape harvest, commanded him to start writing tragedies.

He had two sons, who followed him into the playwriting business.

At approximately 74 years of age, Aeschylus was killed when an eagle dropped a tortoise on his head. The bird was trying to break the shell on a rock. This is how eagles prepare their turtle lunch. The unfortunate guy was bald, and the eagle thought his head was a good turtle-breaking rock.

Wrong Way Wooten

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In the mid 1980s a man from Bryn Mawr, Pennsylvania, near Philadelphia, became rather famous for riding his bicycle backward. At the age of thirteen, one of his friends said that riding a bike while sitting on the handlebar would be impossible. Tom Wooten proved his friend wrong. When he saw the way people reacted to seeing him ride that way, he decided it would be his career.



Wrong Way Wooten

In his late 20s, evidently after driving a tow truck for a while, and receiving a degree in psychology, he planned his first cross-country bike tour. Originally, he was going to ride with five other people, but they all backed out before he started. He relates, “I learned never to count on anybody for anything.”

he built a custom bike for his purpose. It was based on a Schwinn Varsity, which was a very heavy all-steel bike of the late 1970s. He put padded tape on the handlebar to make sitting more comfortable. He installed two mirrors on long arms so he could see where he was going. He removed the seat, and put a portable television in its place. He then somehow attached another ten-speed bike to the rear of his bike in order to carry more gear. There is no information as to how the bike was attached. There are conflicting reports as to how much the entire contraption weighed. The report that seem most believable says it was 160 lbs (72 kg). Other reports put it at “over 300 pounds” and some say it was 450 lbs.

He converted the bike to 21 speeds, quite rare in the 1980s, but left the shifters in their original position – on the handlebar stem. This meant that he had to reach between his legs to change gears. His bike had toe-clips, which were, of course, installed backward on the pedals.

Before his first trip to traverse the entire United States, he studied maps. Being independently wealthy (according to what little is written – and we don’t know how he attained that wealth) he then hired a small airplane to fly low, examining his route for overly steep hills, road construction and other such potential problems.

Tom, who legally changed his name to “Wrong Way Wooten,” then set out on his journey with a specific self-appointed mission. “The main reason I do what I do is to get people to realize that they have a responsibility to other people.” He represented several major charities including The American Cancer Society, The American Lung Society, The Heart Fund, the Jaycees, United Way, and March of Dimes, taking donations in person and also encouraging people to donate directly to their favorite charities. According to the legend, he criss-crossed the country several times totaling 28,000 miles (45,000 kilometers) over the next 17 years.

To some, it looked like what he was doing, riding around the country on a bike, would be limitless fun, but he cited some problems, such as flat tires, bad weather and racists who sometimes tried to run him off the road. “I can’t hate them, then I would be just like them.”

He did not recommend that other people should tour backwards. “One mistake, and you’re history.”

He planned on riding for twenty-five years. Unfortunately, in 2004, at age 47, he died of a massive heart attack. His credo was, “Bind yourself to nothing and seek harmony with all things. Only then can you be truly free.” People who remember him say he was a wonderful and very personable ambassador for kindness to others.

Barack Obama

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Barack Obama

In 2006, Barack Obama won a Grammy Award. These are given to people in the entertainment business, not politics. So what is it that President Obama did that could possibly earn him a Grammy Award? It was for an audiobook recording he personally recorded of his memoir.

When running for President of the United States, Barack Obama promised his wife Michelle that he would quit smoking. He didn’t.

He has read all seven of the Harry Potter books. (There were eight movies, but only seven books. The last book was made into two movies.)

President Obama says that if he hadn’t gone into politics, he would have liked to become an architect.

Barack’s mother’s first name is Stanley. She holds a Ph.D in anthropology. Her research has been given much more attention since he became President.

Barack said of his childhood, “That my father looked nothing like the people around me – that he was black as pitch, my mother white as milk barely registered in my mind.”

Barack’s election as US President is not the first time he was a first black president. He was also the first black president of The Harvard Law Review.

Like 11.11 percent of the population, Barack Obama is left-handed.

A psychologist in Canada conducted some research that proved left-handed people are more accident-prone than right-handers. After studying 2,300 major-league baseball players who had died, he found that those older than 35 were two percent more likely to die than right-handers. In the group who had made it beyond eighty-five years old, there were very few left-handers.

Another study of Canadian college students found that 44 percent of the left-handers had been hospitalized within the last five years due to an accident, yet only 36 percent of the right-handers had been hospitalized for an accident. One hypothesis that may account for some of this is that the tools and machines of our modern world are designed for right-handers.

The southpaws also had higher incidence of immunological problems and sleep disorders. A hypothesis behind this phenomenon is that babies who would have normally been right-handers become lefties if they have problems at birth such as long labor or low birth weight.

David Bushnell

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In the mid 1770’s David Bushnell, an inventive guy, created the world’s first attack submarine. Using whiskey barrel technology, he made a watertight clamshell-shaped vehicle with barely enough room for one man. The thing, nicknamed the Turtle, was placed in New York Harbor one night containing Sgt. Ezra Lee, a 45-year-old man who was stronger than the frail inventor. He had two hand-operated propeller vanes, one for forward travel, the other for directional control.


Bushnell's Turtle

A museum replica of Bushnell’s Turtle

Sgt. Lee cranked his way toward the British flagship of Admiral Richard Howe, called the Eagle. David Bushnell provided for instrument guidance in the underwater darkness, even though it was 1776 and electric lighting was still 100 years into the future. Inventor Bushnell’s solution was ingenious. He lit the primitive instruments, a compass and a depth gauge, with foxfire, a moss that glows in the dark. Still, navigation was difficult, because it was cold in the Turtle, and therefore the foxfire was dim. Ezra Lee missed the battleship entirely and cranked himself out to sea. Realizing his error just in time, he cranked furiously against the tide and finally arrived under the ship. Now it was time to do his dirty work.

The plan was to turn a crank mounted in the ceiling of the Turtle, which would screw an eye-hook into the underside of the Eagle. Attached to the hook was a bomb. After several attempts at attaching the bomb, Ezra finally realized it couldn’t be done. The ship was probably coated in copper plating to keep barnacles from growing on the ship, and the hook wouldn’t drill into the ship. (Historians are not sure about why the bomb couldn’t be attached, this is their theory.)

Dawn was coming, and Sgt. Lee had to get away quickly before he would be discovered. Again, he cranked furiously, but some sailors on the ship saw him. Realizing he was in trouble, he released the bomb, which floated to the surface and blew up harmlessly. But it saved his life. The ship’s men had never seen anything like the Turtle and weren’t even sure it was a human-invented thing. It might be a monster, or a monster’s creation. After the little explosion, they were truly afraid. And Ezra Lee cranked his way to harbor, his submarine was opened, and he was safe.

This was the first and last submarine voyage of the 18th century. David Bushnell was quite fascinated with inventions and explosive things in particular. He devoted his mental efforts to the war, but his creations never made any serious contributions. Once, some soldiers found a strange barrel floating in the water. They rowed out to it in a little boat and pulled it out of the water. On the contraption they found gears turning. This would be unusual by today’s standards, but truly weird back in 1776. At about the time they made this observation, the time bomb exploded, killing three of the men and injuring some others. It was supposed to have floated up to a place where several enemy ships were docked and blow them up, but the men intercepted it. This was the only one of Mr. Bushnell’s inventions that came anywhere close to working right.

The Wright Brothers

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Before the famous aviation pioneers, the Wright brothers, created a bicycle shop, they started a printing business, featuring their own newspaper. This was quite enterprising for two young men who did not have high school diplomas. Wilbur did complete four years, but the family moved just before he was to receive his diploma. Orville dropped out of school to run the print shop. (This is not recommended for modern kids. School is free. You might as well take as much as you can get!)


Wilbur Wright 
Orville Wright

Wilbur and Orville Wright

Indicative of their engineering ability to come, they built their own printing press from scratch.

They were in the printing business during the time bicycle technology took a radical turn. Until then, in order to gain sufficient speed, bikes tended to have pedals attached directly to large wheels, making them cumbersome, hard to ride, and dangerous. Then the “safety” bike came out. Safeties had smaller wheels with a chain driving a small sprocket from a big one, so they could be geared high enough to go fast. This started a cycling craze, and the Wrights were observant enough to start a bike shop at just the right time. They didn’t buy their bikes from wholesalers. They made their bikes themselves.

Orville was more the hands-on guy, the one who did most of the inventing and building, while Wilbur, older by four years, was more the businessman, although they easily switched roles as needed.

Since the bike shop was doing well, they let their hired mechanic, Charles Edward Taylor, take on the management of the shop, while they spent increasingly more time on their hobby – experimenting to see if they could make a heavier-than-air flying machine. Lighter-than-air flying machines, also known as dirigibles, or blimps, which were filled with hydrogen or helium, had already been invented, but were problematic. They were huge, hard to control, especially in any sort of wind, slow, and not always safe.

The brothers built a wind tunnel and scientifically studied the effects of airflow across various shapes. They had Charlie Taylor build them an engine, since the only ones that could be purchased at that time were ridiculously heavy for their power output. Mr. Taylor used aluminum instead of steel (a fairly new and novel metal in the day), creating an engine weighing under 200 pounds (100 kilos) and generating twelve horsepower. He machined many of the parts himself, but had the crankcase cast by a local foundry.

The number four figures highly in Charlie’s engine. It was a four-stroke design, with four cylinders, each of which had a four-inch bore and a four-inch stroke. Modern engines can easily get a hundred horsepower out of an engine that size.

The brothers also needed propellers, so they designed and carved their own. Their propellers were up to 82% efficient, nearly as good as the best propellers today at 85% efficient.

First Flight

First ever flight

The Wrights were not the first inventors to get a heavier-than-air craft in the air, but they were the first to make one that could be controlled in flight. Studying bird anatomy, sketches by Leonardo da Vinci, and contemporary inventors, they figured that warping the wings was the way to control flight. They invented three-axis control, which is how airplanes are still controlled today, although modern aircraft use flaps at the edges of wings rather than actually warping the wings.

For a few summers, their experiments, and finally their first successful flights were at Kitty Hawk, or more specifically Cape Hatteras, North Carolina. Why did they transport all their stuff more than 600 miles from Dayton, Ohio all the way to the east coast? They felt the rather continuous winds were important. Their first flights took off into the wind. They also liked the idea of landing in soft sand when things went wrong, which they did from time to time.

They had to promise their father that they would not both fly in the same plane at the same time. This way, if a plane crashed, at least one would survive to carry on their experimentation. Only once in all their lives did they fly together. It was a six-minute hop. On one occasion, Orville took their 82-year-old father, Milton, on a short flight, which delighted him.

The Wright brothers were two of seven children, two of whom died at birth. They never married.

By 1909, the brothers had become the most famous people in the world.

Michael Flatley

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“I can go back to when I was six years old. I was always getting in trouble for dreaming, and the things I got in trouble for dreaming about are the things I’m doing today.” – Michael Flatley

Michael Flatley

via maxguy

Michael Flatley really evidences the ‘can-do’ attitude. He was the original choreographer and male lead dancer in the world-famous Irish step dancing show Riverdance. He later became the founder of Lord of the Dance, Feet of Flames, and Celtic Tiger.

In 1975, at age seventeen, he won the World Championship for Irish dance. Having been born and raised on the South Side of Chicago, this was a particularly unusual win. The championship had never been won by anyone outside of Europe. In 2000, he was listed in Guinness Book for being paid $1,600,000 per week, more than any other dancer has ever made. What this biographer finds particularly fascinating about Michael Flatley is how much he has accomplished in addition to dancing. He has won numerous awards as a flute player, boxer (pugilist), and evidently as a chess master, too.

After high school, most kids go on to additional education or enter the workforce. Right out of high school, Michael Flatley started his own dance studio.

He has an estimated net worth of $650 million and owns homes in Barbados, Ireland, Beverly Hills and France and London.

Well into his fifties (born in 1958), he is still dancing.

Ben Franklin

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Benjamin Franklin

Ben Franklin was born into a family of 19 in 1706. He
was one of the most amazingly productive people that have ever
lived on this earth. Not only is his list of accomplishments
impressive, but much of his humor in writing lives to this day.
He died in 1790 at the age of 83. He did not waste his time on
this earth.

Most of us have come to think of Benjamin Franklin as a worldly-wise fellow, loved by his associates, and almost super-human in his ability to invent practical solutions. Some of his abilities may have come from his childhood. With 16 brothers and sisters, he probably had to learn to be quick-witted.

When it was time to decide on a national bird for the United States of America, Ben suggested a turkey. An eagle was chosen instead.

His armonica was a very weird musical instrument. After hearing a concert played by rubbing fingers on the rims of wine glasses tuned by filling with various amounts of water, Ben loved the sound so much that he got to thinking. This inspired him to up with a horizontal shaft on which were mounted glass bowls or disks. The musician would turn the shaft with a foot pedal, much like a treadle sewing machine. One could make beautiful haunting music by rubbing wet fingers on the rims of the glass disks. I believe, but don’t know for sure, that the shaft turned in a long pan of water, so the disks remained wet. Armonica means “harmony” in Greek. The Ben Franklin armonica is also called a glass harmonica.

The Franklin stove as we know it today is a fireplace with cast iron doors. This is not the woodstove that Ben invented. His version has disappeared from modern times. It was an airtight, which is more efficient than most of the stoves used at that time. But, his invention was so complex and awkward to light that it never gained much favor in American homes.

It looked somewhat like an egg on a pedestal. The air came in through vents in the top of the egg, passed downward through the wood fire, and was sucked out the bottom, which was connected to a chimney across the room through pipes running under the floor. This design caused almost total combustion of the wood, which most stoves cannot do, and the pipes under the floor warmed the floor, which was pleasant and efficient. The problem was that the system had to be warmed gradually in order to get the necessary draft or suction sufficient to avoid smoking up the whole house.

Ben claimed that the servants were too stupid to manage it. He was reluctant to say that maybe his design was just too cumbersome.

Here are some Franklin quotes: (Most of these were
first published in Poor Richard’s Almanac, which Franklin
produced.)

A little neglect may breed great mischief… for want
of a nail the shoe was lost; for want of a shoe the horse was
lost; and for want of a horse the rider was lost.

Necessity never made a good bargain.

Three may keep a secret, if two of them are dead.

Keep your eyes wide open before marriage, half shut
afterwards.

When the well’s dry, we know the worth of water.

Dost thou love life? Then do not squander time; for
that’s the stuff life is made of.

Little strokes, Fell great oaks.

Work as if you were to live a hundred years, Pray as
if you were to die tomorrow.

A word to the wise is enough, and many words won’t
fill a bushel.

To lengthen thy life, lessen thy meals.

Ben Franklin was responsible for the first paved
street in America, and the first department of sanitation, and
the first taxes to pay for sanitation.

Ben Franklin organized the first circulating library.
This club was called the Junto.

The first man-made oil slick on the ocean was created by – you
guessed it – in approximately 1750. Ben was attempting to calm stormy seas for
easier ships’ passage by spreading oil on the ocean. The experiment didn’t
work.

Franklin was the first postmaster to put the US Post
Office into a profitable position. He was the first elected
Postmaster General. He was paid one thousand dollars per year,
which he donated to charity.

Ben Franklin, along with a friend, Thomas Bond, started
the first hospital in America.

When Ben Franklin saw a rotten, sprouting willow
basket in a stream he took it home and planted it, starting the
first willow tree in America.

When plans were required for a new house of
government, Ben Franklin was given a crack at the architect’s
job, but his design was rejected. It was just too offbeat. He had
planned to hook all the seats in the meeting room to the
fireplace chimney. The bottoms of the seats would have many small
holes. The draft from the chimney would create a slight suction
at these holes in the seats, carrying away what he called
“personal odors.”

Ben Franklin noticed that many printers, plumbers,
painters and potters were getting sick the same way. He then
looked for a common habit among them and found that they all
handled lead. He was the first to identify industrial lead
poisoning.

Ben Franklin’s eyesight was diminishing as his age
advanced. He had to carry two pairs of glasses, one for seeing
close and the other for distant viewing. Ben had a lens maker
modify his two pairs of glasses, putting parts of both sets of
lenses in one set of frames, creating the world’s first bifocals.
One of the reasons he was so famous in his own time were these
glasses. Photography had not yet been invented, artists’ drawings
in the newspapers were the only way people had of being
recognized. But Ben Franklin was very obvious with his glasses in
a time when very few people wore any glasses at all, and none
wore bifocals.

Ben Franklin was one of the first people to realize
that the common cold is contagious from one person to another. In
that time viruses were unknown, but at least Franklin refuted the
notion that getting your body cold was the cause.

Ben Franklin discovered the ocean currents. When on
ships he would take sightings and temperature readings and
eventually made valuable charts to help ships’ captains plot more
efficient courses.

One of the few things Ben Franklin didn’t invent was
street lights, but he did improve them. Until he thought of a
better idea, they always had round globes. His improvement was to
use four separate flat panes of glass. This way, if one was
broken, only one inexpensive pane had to be replaced, not the
whole globe. Some gas lamps of this design are still in use
today.

He also didn’t come up with the idea of volunteer fire
fighters, but did organize the fire fighters in Philadelphia into
the best outfit in the world.

On the Choice of a Mistress

by Ben Franklin

[he recommends choosing an older, not necessarily
pretty wife]

1. Because they have more Knowledge of the world, and
their Minds are better stored with Observations; their
Conversation is more improving, and more lastingly agreeable.

2. Because when Women cease to be handsome, they study
to be good. To maintain their Influence over Men, they supply the
Diminution of Beauty by an Augmentation of utility. They learn to
do a thousand Services, small and great, and are the most tender
and useful of all Friends when you are sick. Thus they continue
amiable. And hence there is hardly such a thing to be found as an
old Woman who is not a good Woman.

3. Because there is no hazard of children, which
irregularly procured may be attended with much inconvenience.

4. Because through more Experience they are more
prudent and discreet in conducting an Intrigue to prevent
Suspicion. The Commerce with them is therefore safer with regard
to your reputation; and with regard to theirs, if the Affair
should happen to be known, considerate People might be rather
inclined to excuse an old Woman, who would kindly take care of a
young Man, form his manners by her good Councils, and prevent his
ruining his Health and Fortune among mercenary Prostitutes.

5. Because in every Animal that walks upright, the
Deficiency of the Fluids that fill the Muscles appears first in
the highest Part. The Face first grows lank and wrinkled; then
the Neck; then the Breast and Arms; the lower parts continuing to
the last as plump as ever; so that covering all above with a
Basket, and regarding only what is below the Girdle, it is
impossible of two Women to know an old one from a young one. And
as in the Dark all Cats are gray, the Pleasure of Corporal
Enjoyment with an old Woman is at least equal and frequently
superior; every Knack being by Practice capable of improvement.

6. Because the sin is less. The Debouching of a Virgin
may be her Ruin, and make her Life unhappy.

7. Because the Compunction is less. The having made a
young Girl miserable may give you frequent bitter Reflections;
none of which can attend making an old Woman happy.

8th & lastly. They are so grateful!!!”

This was Ben Franklin’s own epitaph:

“The body of Benjamin Franklin, Printer (like the
cover of an old book, its contents torn out and striped of its
lettering and gilding), lies here, food for worms; but the work
shall not be lost, for it will (as he believed) appear once more
in a new and more elegant edition, revised and corrected by the
Author.”

Sam Patch

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Sam Patch

Don’t drink and dive. Sam Patch was the man known throughout America in the 1820’s for leaping from the tops of bridges and waterfalls. He was a professional. Sam made his money like a street juggler or magician, by passing the hat. He created as much of a show of it as possible, sometimes jumping into the water with his pet bear. He successfully jumped Niagara Falls. Sam became a national sensation, and inspired a jumping craze. Farmers jumped over fences, retailers leaped over their sales counters.

Sam finally disappeared while attempting a second jump into Genesee Falls, a smaller but still spectacular waterfall in Rochester, NY. He jumped from a 100-foot high tower in November, just to make the feat more difficult. Over 6,000 people watched him jump, but none saw him return. Some folks reported that he had been drinking before his fatal dive. Finally, in March of the following year, his body was discovered encased in a block of ice.

Carry Nation

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Carry Nation

After marrying a promising young physician in 1867, Carry Nation was horrified to see her husband destroy his career and his life after only two years. He drank himself to death. Mrs. Nation was so disgusted with alcohol that she smashed up more than thirty drinking establishments. This six-foot-tall woman armed with a hatchet would enter a bar and with such frenzy that all the male patrons ran in fright; she broke all the bottles and much of the furniture with rocks, bricks and hatchets.

Edgar Rice Burroughs

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Edgar Rice Burroughs

Edgar Rice Burroughs is the author of the Tarzan series, The Land That Time Forgot, and many other books that were extremely popular in their time, and from which movies are still made. He was born in 1875, and lived 74 years. He wanted to be a military man, and attended the Michigan Military Academy. He failed to get into West Point, but served a short time in the 7th U.S. Cavalry (horse-mounted soldiers). He was soon discharged due to a mild heart condition.

Not quite knowing what to do, he became a bit of a drifter, working for a while in his father’s company, and later becoming a wholesale representative for pencil sharpeners. In his spare time, he enjoyed reading pulp fiction. In time, he figured he might try his hand at writing fiction. It wasn’t until he was 37 years old that had any significant success with writing, when he penned Tarzan of the Apes.

His inspiration for writing: “…if people were paid for writing rot such as I read in some of those magazines, that I could write stories just as rotten. As a matter of fact, although I had never written a story, I knew absolutely that I could write stories just as entertaining and probably a whole lot more so than any I chanced to read in those magazines.”

In total, he wrote eighty novels, mostly in the science fiction and fantasy genres.

Jane Lynch

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Jane Lynch, who was born in Dolton, Illinois in 1960, plays Sue Sylvester, an overbearing cheerleading coach who sometimes rises to the position of principal, in Fox Network’s smash hit Glee. She is the nemesis of the glee club, around which the show is centered. Glee is the third show in which she has been cast as a rough-around-the edges schoolteacher. She has an acerbic kind of comedy that in small doses can be funny, but in her huge, overblown way is fall-on-the-floor funny.

Jane Lynch

Jane Lynch, photo by vagueonthehow

Jane has been deaf in one ear since infancy.

Martha Stewart

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When Martha Stewart, the world’s first female billionaire, with an empire including books, television shows, housewares, and even complete houses, was ten years old, she used to babysit the children of Mickey Mantle, Yogi Berra, and other famous baseball players.

Martha Stewart

Martha Stewart, photo by Rubenstein

Oprah Winfrey

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Oprah Winfrey, is a billionaire who is regarded as the most influential woman in the world. She was born to a teenage single mother in poverty in a small town in Mississippi in 1954 when racism was still very active in the southern United States.

When Oprah was 14 years old, facing a life that up until then had consisted of sexual abuse and poverty, she tried to commit suicide by drinking laundry detergent. I think we are all glad that didn’t work out as planned.

Oprah’s real name on her birth certificate is Orpah after a biblical character. People consistently mispronounced her name, so she colloquially became Oprah.

Oprah learned to read at age three, which is somewhat common today because of the ubiquity of books, tablets and computers, but in 1957, reading at that age was quite rare.

Due to her oratory skill, she won a full college scholarship where she majored in communication.

Lea Michele

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Lea Michele plays Rachael Berry, a Jewish singer and actress with two fathers and no mother in the popular TV series, Glee. Her full name is Lea Michele Sarfati which would appear to be Italian, not Jewish. In fact her mother is Italian. Her father, a New York City delicatessen owner, is of Spanish Saphardic Jewish descent. Michele was brought up Catholic.

Lea Michele

via JJ Duncan

Currently, she lives alone in a $1.4 million (US) home in Hollywood with her dog and cat.

Richard Branson

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Richard Branson

Richard Branson, born in 1950, is the founder of over 400 companies, most of which start with the name “Virgin,” such as Virgin Atlantic, Virgin, Virgin Mobile, and Virgin Blue. Virgin as a business name was suggested by one of his first employees as they built Virgin Records, because they were all new in business.

His first business was a magazine called Student that he created at the age of sixteen.

Richard has dyslexia, a learning disability that made reading and other academic activities much harder for him. His headmaster once said that he would either end up in prison or become a millionaire. With an estimated net worth of over 4.6 billion dollars (US), he seems to have learned how to work around the dyslexia quite nicely.

Justin Timberlake

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Justin Timberlake, who owns at least six Harley-Davidson motorcycles, says he is afraid of snakes, spiders, and a little bit scared by the stuffed animals fans throw on stage when he is performing.

Justin was born in Memphis, Tennessee in 1981. His performing career started at eleven years of age on the television show Star Search. He then became a member of the Mickey Mouse Club. There, he met his first girlfriend, Britney Spears. Then he dated Cameron Diaz, and finally married Jessica Biel in 2012.

Miley Cyrus

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What would cause a girl who is an inspiration to millions to go from wearing a purity ring to performing a sexualized, raunchy act on television? That would be Miley Ray Cyrus we’re talking about, at the 2013 MTV Music Awards. You probably have seen the performance, but you may not know what a purity ring is. I didn’t, until I looked it up.

Purity Ring

via Rimabie

A purity ring, also known as a virginity ring, chastity ring, or abstinence ring is a reminder of a pledge a girl can take to abstain from sexual activity until marriage. This has become very popular in recent years, especially among Christians. Miley was brought up Christian and did get a purity ring in her high school years. Because of her performing career she didn’t spend much time in conventional school, instead being tutored on movie and TV sets. Her career started in earnest at age eleven when she auditioned for a supporting role in Hannah Montana, The audition went so well that she was cast for the lead role.

It certainly didn’t hurt her career that her father is Billy Ray Cyrus, a very successful country singer and actor, starring in the “Doc” TV series, and her mother is Leticia “Tish” Cyrus, also a successful performer. And, if that isn’t enough to assure her a place in the performing world, her godmother is Dolly Parton.

But she wasn’t provided with social status alone. There is no doubt she was taught, guided, coached, whatever you might like to call it, by her parents and friends of the family, from the earliest age, in the ways of singing and acting.

Plus she has natural talent. Is it genetic? Experts are still arguing whether performers inherit their ability or develop it on their own. Perhaps the way she got the name Miley is a telling trait. As a baby and toddler, she tended to smile more than average, so her parents started calling her “Smiley.” The nickname was eventually shortened to “Miley.”

So what turned her from a conservative teenager into a rebellious twenty-something? One theory is religion. While, as we all know, religion is a wonderful tool for conveying moral values, it can also be perceived as a constraint by some. Some of the wildest rebels in history came from very religious backgrounds. If one is brought up in an overly-formal environment, one might feel a need to test the limits, experience the other side, or try to find a middle ground, which from a limited perspective may look more like the far side.

Another possibility is too much ‘can-do’ attitude. No doubt her parents told her she can become great. After all, they have succeeded handily, and so they’d naturally expect it from their children. I mean, look at her name. As you know, she wasn’t born “Miley.” She was born as Destiny Hope Cyrus.

If a name like that isn’t a first step toward a can-do attitude, I don’t know what is. A ‘can-do’ attitude is also a wonderful thing, within reason. It allows one to excel in so many ways. The child who learns to dance carries that successful experience over into other learning activities. Even math becomes easier with a can-do attitude. That’s why so many great performers seem to be able to dance, sing, play instruments, act, and have remarkable hobbies such as writing or painting. However, Miley states that her favorite hobby is shopping.

So, what happens when one gets too much can-do? Right. The person feels they ‘can-do’ sex, drugs, belligerence, you name it, to excess. Considering her background, I believe she should be praised for her restraint. This biographer believes that after a few years of experimentation, she will settle down to be a great example indeed, just like her parents. These parents, probably exceptionally well-meaning individuals, may have contributed to the current rebellious attitude. Perhaps you can imagine being brought up by two people who realize they are examples to millions and so always do their very best to ‘act right.’ And, of course they’d be constantly imparting to their children that they have to act right also. Imagine the pressure!

Some miscellaneous Miley facts:

In her late teens, she was diagnosed with tachycardia – a non-fatal abnormal racing of the heartbeat which can exceed 100 beats per minute.

Miley was born left-handed. Her dad thought it would be a good idea to have her learn to write right-handed, so now, she does write with her right hand, but her left hand is dominant for everything else.

According to whosdatedwho.com, “When she was very young, Miley used to go onto the stage after her father had performed, and she’d help collect the flowers and homemade bracelets that people threw at him. Then they would go and donate everything to a local hospital.”

Her net worth is reportedly over $120 million.

Thomas Edison

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Thomas Edison

When Thomas Edison was twelve years old, he had a job selling newspapers on a commuter train. He had set up a printing press to make his own newspapers, and thereby increase his profits. He also set up a chemistry lab, to indulge his already well-developed scientific curiosity. One day, as the train went around a particularly tight turn, some of Edison’s phosphorus fell on the floor and started a small fire. As the train came into the station, and the conductor discovered the problem, Tom tried to run away. The conductor pulled him back up into the train by his ears. “I felt something snap inside my head,” Edison said. From that time until his death, he was hard of hearing.

Emile Coue

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Emile Coue

One of the most helpful people mankind has ever seen was Emile Coue (1857-1926) of France.

He told people to say to themselves 20 times in a row, twice a day: “Every day, in every way, I am getting better and better.” This actually cured thousands of people of an assortment of minor and major ills.

In French if you prefer, “Tous les jours, a tous points de vue, je vais de mieux en mieux.”

Try it, it can’t hurt you (unless somebody overhears, but then you can do it silently), and it might just work to get you over the flu, a toothache, aches and pains, whatever is bothering you.

This is a serious suggestion. Scientists have proven beyond doubt that people can improve their health with a positive mental attitude. In many hospitals, cancer patients are now being taught to mentally picture (or actually draw pictures of) their cells surrounding and dissolving tumors.

Albert Einstein

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Albert Einstein

In 1905 Albert Einstein wrote his famous Special Theory of Relativity. It was published in a scientific journal that same year, but took many years to gain general acceptance. In fact, it was not proven by actual experiment until 25 years later.

Two years after that paper was published, Einstein wanted a job as assistant professor of mathematics. This job required the applicant to submit a thesis paper, so Einstein submitted his Special Theory of Relativity. The university rejected it.

Dr. Einstein was once taking some notes on some thoughts he was having while attending a lecture. Everyone stood up and started applauding, and so he stood up and started clapping also. Upon looking around to see who was being honored, he discovered it was he who they were all applauding.

He was asked to run for the office of President of Israel, but he declined.

“I have little patience with scientists who take a board of wood, look for its thinnest part, and drill a great number of holes where drilling is easy.” – Albert Einstein

“Knowledge is limited to all we now know and understand, while imagination embraces the entire world, and all there ever will be to know and understand.” – Albert Einstein

Chelsea Clinton

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Chlesea Clinton

Bill and Hilary Clinton’s daughter Chelsea, born in 1980, was named after the Joni Mitchell song “Chelsea Morning.” Chelsea is a vegetarian (“I’m a big health-food freak and a vegetarian devotee.”). Chelsea lives in a neighborhood of Manhattan called Chelsea.

Chelsea Victoria Clinton says her parents were “firm but fair.”

The Secret Service code name for Chelsea was “Energy.” She has also been nicknamed “CC.”

Hilary Clinton

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Hilary Clinton

The first words Hilary Rodham said to her future husband, Bill Clinton, were: “If you’re going to keep staring at me, I might as well introduce myself.”

In what some may say is typical governmental paranoia, the White House asked Wellesley College to suppress Hilary Clinton’s senior thesis about political activist Saul Alinsky who specialized in somewhat left-wing, non-violent, social justice organization in Chicago and elsewhere in the 1930s to the 1960s.

After Hilary left the White House as First Lady, the 92-page document was made public in a limited way – it had to be read in person at the Wellesley library. Turns out it contains nothing subversive, nothing incriminating, nothing shocking.

The name Hilary means cheerful or happy in Latin.

P. T. Barnum

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“This is a trading world and men, women and children, who cannot live on gravity alone, need something to satisfy their gayer, lighter moods and hours, and he who ministers to this want is in a business established by the Author of our nature. If he worthily fulfills his mission and amuses without corrupting, he need never feel that he has lived in vain.” – P. T. Barnum, Nineteenth Century producer of shows, museums and circuses.

PT Barnum

“Long ago I learned that to those who mean right and try to do right, there are no such things as real misfortunes. On the other hand, to such persons, all apparent evils are blessings in disguise.” – P. T. Barnum

Adolf Hitler

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Adolf Hitler

The German OSS was no more fond of Adolf Hitler than the rest of the world. They cooked up a plan to put huge doses of estrogen (‘the female hormone’) in his food, hoping his characteristics would become more feminine. This might cause his followers to wonder what was happening or who was leading them. The drug seems to have had no effect on his political career. No one knows whether the kitchen help actually managed to sneak the drug into his food.

When Adolf Hitler saw a pile of bricks near the church of St. Matthew in Munich, Germany, he said, “That pile of stones will have to be removed.” Someone misunderstood him, thinking he was referring to the whole church. The church was demolished.

Time Magazine listed Adolf Hitler as “Man of the Year for 1938.”

People often wonder how Hitler, with all his crazy ideas and rough manners could become so popular a leader. A great deal of Hitler’s appeal to the masses was that he decided to control the automobile industry. He promised them Volkswagens, cars that every family could afford at a time when there was only one car for every 211 people in Germany. In America at that time, there was one car for every 5.7 people.

Ferdinand Porsche

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Ferdinand Porsche

As you may know, Ferdinand Porsche designed the Volkswagen, and he considered it his greatest achievement. He rated this car more important than his winning race cars because this was a car every family could afford. It was a masterpiece of economical engineering for its time, as is evidenced by the fact that the basic design survived for over 30 years.


During World War II, Hitler commissioned Ferdinand Porsche to design the biggest, heaviest army tank possible. The thing was watertight and so could traverse water. It could cross a river, not by floating, but by crawling across the floor of the river, underwater. The problem with this tank is that it was so heavy it literally demolished the streets and foundations of nearby buildings as it passed due to its weight and vibration.

Ferdinand Porsche went to trade school to be trained as a factory foreman. He got the lowest grades in his class.

Henry Ford

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Henry Ford

After World War II, Henry Ford was offered the Volkswagen factory for free by the English government, then in charge of Germany’s industries. They were looking for someone who could operate the plant, thereby creating hundreds of jobs. Ernest Breech, Ford’s chairman of the board, looked the plant over and said, “Mr. Ford, I don’t think what we are being offered here is worth a damn!”

He was right in a way. At that time the factory had not yet ever produced more than a few hand-crafted prototypes and the workers could only make cars when it wasn’t raining, because large areas of the roof were missing.

One of Henry Ford’s famous quotes came from this Volkswagen thing. When Ferdinand Porsche showed him the plans for Volkswagens, and Ford was asked about his concern of competition, he said, “If anyone can build a car better or cheaper than I can, that serves me right.”

Seventeen years later, Volkswagen was producing a car every eight eight seconds, and Ford could have owned the company.

That wasn’t Henry’s only mistake. When he was around twelve years old, he spent some time watching pots of boiling water on his mother’s wood cook stove. He noticed lids rattling over pots as the pressure of the steam raised them a bit. He figured that if the steam was raising the lids, and if you could trap the steam in a container, the whole container must rise up in the air, right? So, he found a clay teapot, put some water in it, jammed the spout with paper, securely fastened the lid. and placed it on the stove. Then, he sat back and watched, hoping to see the teapot rise into the air. But that’s not what he saw. The pressure in the teapot blew it up, showering the house with shrapnel. One piece broke a window, another broke a mirror. One hit Henry on the chin, leaving a permanent scar.

Fortunately, that did not put Henry off mechanical explorations. His mother warned his father than the boy ‘has to investigate everything,’ and that for his own safety, he should be kept away from farm machinery. Instead, by the time Henry was in his late teens, he had built engine-powered self-propelled wagons, the forerunners of farm tractors. Several years after becoming an adult, he built an automobile in a shed behind his house.

The rest of the story, you know. Henry did not invent the concept of automobiles, even though he made his first ones from scratch. What he invented was a series of ways to mass-produce automobiles. The most important concept being interchangeable parts. Until then, only guns and a few other items were made with all the parts being so identical that they could be assembled quickly.

Count Von der Wense

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German Count Von der Wense was asked by the Nazis to surrender his land for the government Volkswagen plant. They offered payment, however. He took the money and bought other land, but that land was conquered by Russia. Finally, after the war, he ended up with a low-paying job as tour guide of the Volkswagen facilities, on the very land he used to own.

Frank Tower

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Frank Tower was a ship worker who was on the Titanic when it sank, the Empress of Ireland when it sank, and the Lusitania when it sank. He escaped all three times.

Julian Whitaker

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“I trained as a surgeon. I found that the saying about surgeons is true: ‘If your only tool is a hammer, everything starts to look like a nail.’ That’s why surgeons always recommend surgery – what other tools do they have for making you well?” – Dr. Julian Whitaker

Arne H. W. Larsson

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The guy who got the very first heart pacemaker implant in 1958, Arne H. W. Larsson, lived for 43 more years, until age 86 in 2001. That first one wasn’t his only pacemaker. It was replaced with 25 others, keeping him in good health until his last year.

Charles Lindbergh

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Charles Lindbergh

Charles Lindbergh was not the first person to fly non-stop over the Atlantic Ocean. He was the sixty-seventh. He was, however, the first to do it solo.

After his famous flight, he pursued many other interests including environmentalism, with an interest in protecting endangered species. He also put considerable focus into developing an artificial heart. His heart never made it past prototype stage, but was the forerunner of modern heart-lung machines.

The Goofy Computer

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This is a biographical bit not about a person, but about a machine: A computer with the job of issuing traffic citations goofed in September 1989 and sent notices to 41,000 residents of Paris, France informing them that they were charged with murder, prostitution and illegal sale of drugs.

Bob Hail

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Bob Hail jumped out of an airplane. His main chute failed. His backup chute also failed. He smashed into the ground face first. In a moment he got up and walked away with only minor injuries.

Alexander Labret

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A diver, Alexander Labret, found a great shipwreck. He was going to be rich! Every day he went down 162 feet to salvage the valuables. He went down 33 times. Divers are supposed to come up slowly to avoid the bends, a painful and dangerous condition in which bubbles of nitrogen appear in the blood and block circulation because of the rapid decompression of rising quickly from deep, high-pressure water. On his very last dive, Alex was excited and came up more quickly than he should have. He had $350,000, but he was paralyzed for life.

Jack Wurm

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In 1949, Jack Wurm, an unemployed man, was aimlessly walking on a California beach when he came across a bottle that had floated up to the beach containing this message: “To avoid confusion, I leave my entire estate to the lucky person who finds this bottle and to my attorney, Barry Cohen, share and share alike. Daisy Alexander, June 20, 1937.” It was not a hoax. Mr. Wurm received over $6 million from the Alexander estate.

Dale Carnegie

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Dale Carnegie

“Knowledge isn’t power until it’s applied.” – Dale Carnegie

“When we hate our enemies, we are giving them power over us; Power over our sleep, our appetites, our blood pressure, our health and our happiness.” – Dale Carnegie

“I am very fond of strawberries and cream, but I have found that for some strange reason, fish prefer worms. So when I went fishing, I didnít think about what I wanted. I thought about what they wanted. I didn’t bait the hook with strawberries and cream. Rather, I dangled a worm or grasshopper in front of the fish.” – Dale Carnegie

Dale Carnagie was born on November 22, 1888 on a farm in Maryville, Missouri.

One day while jumping over a fence along with his fellow students in the high school cross-country run, a ring on his finger got caught on the top of the fence, resulting in the instant loss of the finger along with about six inches of tendon. He said it was not particularly painful.

He was able to graduate State Teacher’s College while still living on his family’s farm, getting up to milk the cows at 4 a. m. before attending classes. After college he took jobs as a traveling salesman, first selling correspondence courses, then Armour soap and meat products.

In 1911, he quit his sales job to focus on becoming a Chautauqua lecturer. In those days, Chautauqua was a big thing. Started at Chautauqua Lake in New York, it evolved into hundreds of lecture venues throughout the United States, where the public could learn from and be entertained by a wide variety of speakers and performers. It was not unlike today’s TED Talks, but of course with the limited technology of the day, everyone attended these events in person. Chautauqua didn’t quite work out for Dale, and he found himself gravitating to the stage as an actor, rather than a lecturer. And that didn’t really work either. By 1912, he was living at the YMCA in New York City. In those days, many YMCAs were like lower class hotels for men. One could rent a room for very little money.

YMCAs of the era also offered adult education classes, as many still do today. Dale approached the manager of the Y and asked about a job as a teacher. The manager would only let him teach on a commission basis, figuring he may not get many students. In his first classes, he didn’t really know what to teach, and so experimented with some ideas in communication. He noted that when people are emotionally charged about a topic, they lose some of their fear of public speaking. Within two years, he had turned this finding and other discoveries from his sales and acting careers into a full course on public speaking and was making $500 per week, a spectacular sum back then, on a commission basis.

He continued to lecture to ever larger audiences and started writing books.

His last name was spelled Carnagey until he was 34 years old. He changed it to Carnegie in 1922 so his name would seem more like Andrew Carnegie, one of the most respected businessmen in America at the time.

Not long after, he packed Carnegie Hall for one of his lectures.

He wrote the massively popular book, “How to Win Friends and Influence People” in 1936, at age 48. He also wrote “How to Stop Worrying and Start Living.” The books are still popular today. The Dale Carnegie Course in Effective Speaking and Human Relations is still being taught throughout the world with more than eight million graduates.

Dale died at the age of 66 from Hodgkins’ Lymphoma, a cancer of the white blood cells.

Gary Beacom

Table of Contents

Gary Beacom

Gary Beacom on YouTube


(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3hcQWCca5i8)

Gary Beacom, born in 1960, started ice skating at age six. As an amateur, he placed third in the Canadian Nationals, and eleventh in the 1983-84 Olympics. He then went on to skate professionally for a number of years entertaining audiences around the world. He won the 1988 World Professional Championships.

Gary is known for amusing innovation, having performed things such as headstands on the ice and skating on his hands.

Unusual at his level of success as a skater, he was his own coach and choreographer.

As an income tax protester, he felt he should not have to pay US income tax, since he was a Canadian citizen performing in America. He spent almost two years in federal prison because the US government did not agree with him. After his incarceration, he wrote a book about his experience.

At the age of 41 (when your author last spoke with him), he had never had a skating injury severe enough to require surgery, which is very unusual for skaters. He attributed this to vegetarianism. He has been a vegan all his life. That’s a person who eats no meat, milk, eggs or food made with any kind of animal products. He is also fourth-generation vegetarian. Vegetarianism was started in his family by his great-grandmother.


You may enjoy more books like and unlike this one at 500Ways.com



Jeff Napier

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Artistic 6-Club Passing

Juggling Tricks With Juggling Clubs

Copyright 2019-2024, Jeff Napier

dinosaurs juggling


Table of Contents


Start Here


Teaching the Basics

Etiquette (Or Something)

Terminology and Counts


Tricks


Parts And Pieces (Basics)

Back Cross Triple

Bash Tricks

Big Arm Circles

Bounces

Tomahawks

Crotch Bash

Demultiplex

Devilstick Maneuvers

French Chops

Froggie Catch

Hawaiian Toe Throw

Head Balance

Head Spin

Heel Kick-Up

Suicide Catch

Kicks

Kick-Ups

Kick-Ups From Floor Set

Knee Kick

Le Mediocre Shoulder Throw

Left French Chops

The Low Throw

Multiplex Catch

Multiplex Passes

Double Under Triple

Multiplex Triples

Four and Five High

Railroad Tracks

Shoulder Passes

Slapbacks

Four Club Steals

Toe Pick-Up

Toe Kick-Up Pass

Tim Chops (Inverterd Tomahawks)

Trouts

Waffle

ZOC Extension

The Hero Catch

Balance Bash

Balance Fake

Balance Send

Two Hand Tomahawks

Cross Over Flowers

Debroids

Joshie’s Throws

Simultaneous Backcross

Jordan’s Kick

Back To Back Passing

Standing Two High

Tweezers

Wine Bottles

Potatoes

Charlie Brown’s Punch

Knee Lever

Backward Shoulder Throws

Full Monte Kick

Reverse Monte

Crotch Catch

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Related:

The Unicycle and Unicycling


Combinations


Alternating Tomahawks

Three-Three-Ten

Four Way Tomahawks

Alternating Kicks

Balance Kick

Benji’s Series

Big-Little Arm Circles

Circle Bashes

Double Crotch Bash

Double Triple Shoulder Throw

Fake Head Bash

Fish Flops

Two-Up Flowers

Froggie Catch Double Flourish

Froggie Catch Double Flourish Cross-Overs

Homicide

Ken Flips

Mr. Miraculous’ Trick

One-High Pickup

Pirouettes

Return Bash

Baseball Bash

Sixteen Turns

Stomach Throw

Multipass

Thirds In Others

Tomato Brain

Tom Flourishes

Two Circle Swings

Two Swing Kick Interruption

Two Behind The Back

Continuous Flourishes

Waterfalls

Flopovers

Ditch Kick-Up

Double Kick-Up

Multiplex Kick-Up

Triple Balance

Pseudo-Tomahawks

Park Low

Roundhouse Flats

Tuck Tuck Goose

Continuous Big Back Circles

Steam Shovel

French Wiggle

Triple High Kick

Kick, Reverse Knob Spin

Free Kick

Transverse Four

The Cowbox Throw

Body Passes

Knee Down Tomahawks

The Impossible Catch

Shoulder Drops

Sliperoo

Two-Part Shoulder Passes


Feed Tricks


Picking Up in a Feed

Feed Triples

Split Triples

Continuous Feed Flourishes

Crossing Tomahawks

Transverse Feed Multiplex

Transverse Crazies

Simultaneous Start


Other Counts


Pairs

Mixed Counts

Club Ballet

Numbers Passing


Start Here

Table of Contents

In this website I will attempt to describe various artistic club passing techniques so you can learn them, and I’ll provide hints to make these techniques easier. I’ve covered everything from the very basics of club passing to super-advanced stuff that you may think is theoretical only, although everything here has actually been performed by your author or others. Putting some of this stuff into English is not easy, especially if you are from Santa Cruz. Therefore, you may have difficulty understanding some of what I have written. But that’s OK, because if you screw a trick up, you have probably invented something else anyway.

In fact, many of these tricks are born out of accidents. When you maintain a playful attitude while juggling, you might see something that doesn’t work, but it will give you ideas. You may catch a club backwards, it may bounce off another club weirdly, or you may struggle to fix a messed up pattern in a unique way. These strange occurrences can be duplicated and made more visual.

If you do want to learn a trick precisely as described, refer to the terminology section often. I have tried to list the standard taxonomy of club juggling, or I have tried to standardize it, where necessary. You and I may not be using the same understandings of certain words, unless you look them up.

This website is aimed at advanced passers, although anyone who can pass will find easy and fun stuff mixed into these pages. In case you’re interested in artistic club passing, even though you’ve never tried it, you’ll find that the first section does teach the basics.

Initially, I thought I might sort this stuff into various counts, and complexities. But, I didn’t. I don’t think it would have helped. Instead, this material is presented in haphazard arrangement because I think you’ll find it more interesting, and because you can pick and choose without having to limit your choices by first deciding on a category.

I would like to suggest a different approach to artistic passing than you may use to learn your solo and show juggling. Instead of working on the same stuff over and over again to get specific improvements, enjoy yourself. Play! Be free! It’s not important to “get tricks down.” It is much more important to laugh and have fun. Do a trick once or do it a hundred times, but do it only when you feel like it. This allows creative freedom. It also teaches you and your partner flexibility regarding weird catches. Eventually you will perfect tricks by association. Learning one trick teaches another. I have seen people practicing shoulder throws very hard every day until they finally give up in frustration. Others, when adding a shoulder throw now and then as a suffix to a series of tricks, learn the same shoulder throw in about the same amount of time. It’s painless the second way.

About clubs: I suggest soft clubs of the European style because you are less likely to get hurt with a wrong catch, and you can more easily do knob balancing and bash tricks. For those who don’t know, European style is a type of club made from several pieces – a plastic club shell, an internal wooden dowel or plastic tube, rubber knobs and bottoms, and usually some tape to hold things together, for a better grip, and as decoration.

The other common variety is the American club. It is made from a single, hollow piece of plastic. American clubs are generally larger in diameter than European clubs. Because the American clubs don’t have rubber ends, they are more difficult to do tricks that require friction, such as balances. Keep in mind too, that most other passers will be used to European clubs and would have trouble with different clubs.

Most jugglers and especially club passers in America, and perhaps elsewhere, seem to gravitate toward Renegade clubs, available at renegadejuggling.com. Renegade makes normal and also very strange clubs. In order to match what other jugglers are most used to, you’ll probably want to go with ordinary design and dimensions.

The second most common clubs are Play PX3s – oddly also available at Renegadejuggling.com. These have a big advantage, and a big disadvantage over Renegades. The advantage is durability. A serious passer will wear out a set of Renegades in six months. (Later in this website, you’ll see some photographs of my current clubs, which are nearing the end of their lifespan.) The PX3s under the same circumstances will last for years. About the only failure I have seen, which I have seen unfortunately often, is that the screw that secures the knob will break, and the knob will fall off. The disadvantage is that the PX3s flex a bit, making accuracy, especially in any sort of bashing tricks, difficult.

Avoid the temptation to get clubs with dark handles. You’ll appreciate this advice after sunset when the passers using light-handled clubs can go fifteen minutes longer into the darkness. Should jugglers go into darkness? I don’t know.

I have not yet made a final decision for my own use, as
to long or short handle size. Short handle clubs are easier
to juggle for longer periods of time because there is less
energy needed to accelerate them. They also hurt less if
something goes wrong. Some people worry that short-handle
clubs will not do body throws as well because you don’t have
the same reach. This is not true because the reach is
actually the same. (The question is: From where are you
releasing the knob?)

I think I feel more control with long handle clubs,
however. They go where you throw them more accurately than
shorts. Long handle clubs are more standard. If you carry
just three clubs to the park, and meet another juggler
there, chances are the other juggler will have long handles.
One thing I am sure of: head spins and regular kick-ups are
less failure prone with longs.

Since this is artistic passing we are talking about, I
would like to mention that you should strive to express
every trick fully. A big arm circle is really a BIG arm
circle, for instance. Try to remember your feet are not
glued to the floor. Arsene and Mark Neisser are great
examples of how much you can add to juggling with dance.


Teaching The Basics

Table of Contents

Teaching is part of club passing for most jugglers. We’re generally a bit evangelical in our zeal. And, for good reason. Teaching club passing, or juggling, or any unique skill, imparts a ‘can-do’ attitude in those who learn. Once you have learned club passing, you feel like you can master other things. You have learned how valuable patience is. And you feel more energetic toward new situations. This is especially important for children. Once they build their self-esteem by learning club passing, everything becomes easier, even their academic pursuits. It’s as if their subconscious programming gets modified to include, “Hey, if I can learn club passing, then algebra ought to be easy.”

But why club passing, rather than basketball, figure skating or piano? These too, build a can-do attitude, but have less power. What’s the difference? If someone practices guitar for a couple of years, or gets really serious about soccer, that person may find that even though they’ve become good, they’re lost in the crowd. There are a million other people who have learned the same thing. The chances of standing out in your field are not good if you studied piano or ice skating.

In any competition there can be only one winner. What does that make everyone else? Right. Losers! But, if you take up unicycling, saxophone, or juggling, your chances of becoming a recognized specialist are much greater, and that’s just wonderful for building self-esteem.

Some of these pursuits don’t require competition, although competing in club passing right up through the international level is available if you want it. The point is, the accomplished pianist only gets to enjoy playing piano for its own sake – not a bad thing. But the accomplished club passer is somebody special. Other people, even if only other club passers, will take note. This builds self-esteem in a big way, and self-esteem is like money in the bank. It’s transferrable to other pursuits.

That kind of reminds me of parents who are delighted when their child takes up guitar, but then they’re horrified when the kid announces that he wants to become a rock ‘n roll star.

What they’re not understanding is that he may grow into an adult who never plays the guitar again, but the attitude of patient growth he learned while he was studying guitar will help him tremendously in medical school. Do you suppose that’s one reason such a high percentage of club passers are PhDs, programmers, and medical professionals?

Your author has taught scores of people to pass clubs who couldn’t juggle three balls. Juggling is not a prerequisite. So, let me tell you how I do it. Of course there are other ways. But, you may find this way works pretty well. Furthermore, if you are a reader who has not yet passed clubs, you can use this information to learn it by yourself or actually, along with a friend, since it takes two to pass.

1. Have the student throw a single club from hand to hand with a single spin. Let the student see and practice low, wide throws, showing how the club describes an infinity sign in its movement.

2. Show the student how to hold out the left hand, with the thumb pointing toward the face, and the fingers away. This way, if a club hits the hand, it won’t hurt as it would if the club hits an extended finger or thumb.

3. Throw a pass to the student. If the student has trouble catching the club after multiple attempts, tell the student not to move her hand. Tell the student to just close her hand around the club once it arrives.

4. Have the student toss the club from left hand to right.

5. Have the student pass a club from right hand to your left.

5a. Perhaps you can gauge the student’s involvement and style at this point. Some will want to practice these one-club steps over and over and over and over. These are the meditative types of people. They enjoy perfecting things (or at least throwing a club), and don’t get bored easily. Others, will get bored and never take the next steps, unless you move the learning along quickly. For them, perfection is not important. They want to know ‘how it’s done’ right away.

6. So, when your student is ready, have him hold a club in his left hand while you throw a pass to his left hand. Work with the student to throw the held club at the last possible moment as the pass is arriving, until the student is somewhat proficient in catching your club, then a moment later, catching the club that he threw to his own right hand. It is important at this step to understand the timing.

7. Have the student hold one club in each hand. When you throw a pass, the student should throw a club to his own right hand, and then a pass from his right hand to your left. Once again, timing may have to be emphasized, so the student understands and actually feels in his body that everything doesn’t happen at once. Each step is a distinct point in time. Accuracy of the pass is not important at this time. As the teacher, you may have to skip around quite a bit to catch the passes, but it’s worth the effort, isn’t it? The accuracy of passes will straighten out automatically in time.

8. Once the student can adequately catch your pass, catch her own self-throw, and pass a club to you, your can delight her by actually passing clubs. Give your student two clubs, one in each hand, and you start with three. You juggle for a moment, then pass a club to your student. Your student does the thing she’s just learned: She catches your club, does a self-throw, and passes you a club. You wait until her pass comes to you, then juggle several self-throws, and pass another club. Your student is now passing clubs!

9. Repeat step eight, gradually bringing up the speed until your student is juggling at two-count speed. Expect a lot of laughter during Step Nine as you keep accelerating the pace. At first, you might be doing six-count or even eight-count. Soon, you can do four-count, eventually a sort of modified, slowed-down two-count, and finally, since you only have five clubs, but you want your student to master two-count speed, you are just handing off clubs as passes in two-count time.

10. Show your student how to do a quick-start pass while holding three clubs.

11. Pass in two-count with your student.

12. Depending on the nature of your student, start showing other counts such as four-count, and tricks, to your heart’s content. Early on, you’ll want to focus on various pickups, so you and your student won’t have to deal with a lot of starting and stopping.


Terminology and Counts

Table of Contents

Alberts

An “Albert,” named after Albert Lucas who has it down to perfection, is a throw that goes between the legs, but without lifting a foot off the floor. For this to work, you need to throw the club by the very end holding just the knob between thumb and first finger. Alberts can be thrown from behind the legs to the front or from front to back.

Attack Catch

To do an Attack Catch, bring your catching
hand forward and meet the incoming club fast, before it has
rotated fully. You will have therefore caught it upside
down. This can also be done with solo throws. Attack catches are commonly followed with flourishes.



Bashes

Many passing techniques involve bashes – hitting one club with another. Keep in mind that super-hard bashes to the middle of a club can break the dowel, and hard hits to the body, especially on a cold day, can fracture the plastic shell.

The “bashee” refers not to the catcher, but to the club that gets hit. The “basher” is the club that does the hitting.

Big Arm Circle

Hold a club by the knob and swing it
around in the biggest hacksaw plane circle you can. This is usually done with the right hand during a left-to-left double-spin pass in two-count, or during four-count with a multiplex or demultiplex.

Body Catch

There are times when the best way to deal with an incoming club is to “body catch” it. This means you catch it in your elbow, or between an arm and the side or front of your body. Body catches are most often used to deal with simultaneous arrivals, but can also be an artistic move in themselves. To recover from a body catch, pass the clubs you are holding in your hands normally first, then let the body catch fall to a place where you can catch it in a hand. The most important thing in learning body catches is to stay calm.

The Bottom

The “knob” is obviously, well, the knob, the skinny end. The “bottom” is the fat end of the club.

Chops

Chops is the former name for Tomahawks. The name was changed due to ambiguity with an entirely different solo trick, also called “chops,” in which the juggler makes under-arm throws with rapid exaggerated movement as each throw is set up, resulting in what might look somewhat like martial arts ‘chops.’ So, for club passing, as computer programming manuals like to say, “chops” has been deprecated.

Counts

The most common passing pattern in the world, and perhaps the most artistic is often called “four-count.” It is also known as “every-others,” or just “others” since every other right hand throw goes to your partner. If you think about every throw from both hands, there are three throws between each pass, plus the pass itself, for four throws per cycle.

Two-count,” in which every right-hand throw goes to your partner, also allows for considerable art, and it all seems faster to the audience. Two-count is also known as “showers” and “express.”

Three-count” is a pattern in which every third throw, counting both hands, goes to your partner. This results in alternating passes from the right and and left hand. That 11.11 percent of the population who are left-handed (yup, that’s really the percentage) particularly like three-count because it levels the playing field.

One-count,” also known as “ultimates,” or “onesies,” is a somewhat difficult pattern to learn. In this, every throw goes to your partner. To make it much easier, every pass can be thrown from low and inside, to be caught high and outside. By concentrating on low-inside to high-outside for every throw, you’ll find that throwing is not only more consistent, but collisions, which are otherwise common in this pattern, are avoided. You may notice that the three clubs on your right side never mix with the three clubs on your left. This is like two independent three-club passing patterns.

Six-count” is rare. Every sixth throw, counting both hands, is a pass. This used to be taught to beginners as their first passing count, but as teachers, we have learned that two-count or four-count are easier for beginners. Six count will sometimes be used for patterns involving more than two jugglers, and it is the beginning of Three-Three-Ten.

Far more rare than six-count, we have “five-count.” This pattern is fun to play with, for a minute or two. There are four self-throws between each pass, resulting in alternating passes from both hands.

There is no limit to the number of counts you can have per cycle. In some large group feeds, you may run into eight-count or even twelve-count. Seventeen-count is possible, although I can’t think of a reason why anyone would want that.

Ditch a Club

To ditch a club means to take it out of circulation. Several techniques exist for ditching a club. You can place it between your legs in preparation for a crotch bash. You can set it or drop it to the floor, or onto your foot for a later kick-up. A nice way to ditch a club for a kick-up is to bring it behind your back, slip it between your legs, and let it drop or slide down on top of your foot, all in one smooth move. Or, you can drop it to the floor horizontally in front of your body, and as it lands, step on it, so it is trapped (lightly) under your foot.

Fast Start

The first throw when beginning is a pass – not a self-throw.

Flat

A flat is a throw with no spin. The club can remain vertical or horizontal in any plane. The throw can be of any height. Flats equivalent of single and triple-spins are common.

Float

A pass, or way of passing in which the club goes higher, and spins more slowly than normal.

Flourish

A flourish is any twisty-wrist-type maneuver
of a club that is done without letting go of the club. A
common flourish is started with an Attack Catch and then you turn your wrist in a small figure eight while holding the
club loosely. Inertia makes the club appear to rotate two
turns in your hand. You grip changes to a regular grasp as
the flourish is completed.

Hacksaw Plane

If you can imagine using a hacksaw, you can picture the front-to-back movement as it cuts down through material. This motion is occurring on the “hacksaw” plane, so any club spinning or moving in the front-to-back orientation is said to be in the hacksaw plane.

Multiplex

Multiplex refers to holding two or more clubs in one hand. Multiplex catches generally mean to hold one club while catching a second club in the same hand. A multiplex throw means releasing two or more clubs simultaneously from one hand.




The typical multiplex grip for a pass

Face Plane

When you study a face, it is most often right in front of you. You see it from top to bottom and left to right. A club spinning or moving in this orientation is said to be in the face plane. Transverse throws spin in the face plane.

Numbers

In solo juggling, manipulating more than three objects is called “numbers juggling,” or just “numbers.” In passing, any more than six objects is “numbers passing,” or just “numbers.”

Pairs

“Pairs” is just like one-count, except both hands work in unison, throwing a pair of clubs at a time.

Planes

The movement of a club happens on three planes. In order to discuss club manipulation intelligently, it is often necessary to refer to these planes. They have names, the face, hacksaw, and water planes.

The Point

In a typical feed, where you have two four-count passers facing a two-count passer, the two-count passer is called the “point.”

Set

To set a club is to hold it in position. Often this means hold it exactly horizontally, but it can also mean hold it vertically, or in whatever way is required for whatever comes next. The main idea of a set is that it is specific and pre-meditated, generally getting all your focus for at least a split-second.

Simultaneous Arrivals

This is when the thrower has done something in which the catcher has to deal with two incoming clubs at the same time. The worst case is when there is a high throw and a low throw coming together. The catcher has to look up for the high throw, but has to look straight across for the other throw, which pretty much defeats human design. Pre-meditated high and low simultaneous arrivals are considered bad etiquette, unless discussed beforehand. Simultaneous arrivals at the same height are just fine, if the catcher is experienced.

The normal way to catch simultaneous arrivals is to catch whichever one is more inside in the normal way, and use an elbow or body catch to get a hold of the other one. Pass from your other hand as needed while you sort things out into a manageable situation, then resume passing as normal.

Another approach is to multiplex catch in one hand, while catching normally in the free hand. You can even multiplex catch in both hands at the same time, if you let go of a self throw before you understood the situation.

Slow Start

A slow start is usually the third right hand throw. In other words, everyone starts together with a right hand throw. Everyone throws that first right hand club to themselves, then the next right-hand club also goes to themselves, and finally, the next right hand club is a pass. You might think of this as a five-count start, with the first four throws – counting both hands, being self-throws.

Throwers and Catchers

Most passers become fairly good at both catching and throwing, but most also tend to specialize. Holly Greeley is one of the great catchers. She has a way of ever so calmly standing in one place, yet catching things that are seemingly well out of her ZOC. Whereas she can throw elegant tomahawks and shoulder throws all day long, she seldom does. It seems she really enjoys the challenge of catching. It kind of reminds me of a bass player in a band. This is an individual that doesn’t need to stand out with intricate solos, instead enjoying being the “rock” in rock ‘n roll. Other passers can’t catch clubs even with a butterfly net, but they are willing to try all sorts of throws, and often invent wonderful new tricks. This kind of thrower needs a good catcher. When two throwers get together it can be a little maddening, because neither wants to slow down and let the other one learn or dial in something new. Furthermore, with two throwers, you see a lot of things falling to the ground. When two catchers get together, nothing falls, but nothing happens either. Some catchers would be happy to throw no tricks whatsoever, all day long. But what makes most real catchers happiest is when they have a thrower to challenge their catching skill. A good catcher just loves a thrower who is inaccurately trying one new thing after another. Good catchers seem to be in their element when the thrower who’s just thrown a turkey doesn’t give the catcher a chance to stabilize, and instead throws more out-of-control tricks immediately.

Tomahawk

This is a throw that originates above the shoulder, and is thrown like a hammer or an axe in the hacksaw plane. Tomahawks used to be called “chops.”

Transverse

Transverse means clubs that spin in the face plane.

Water Plane

When you pour water on a flat surface, it runs out equally in all directions. A cup of coffee or a lake’s surface are in the water plane. A club spinning or moving from left to right and front to back is said to be in the “water” plane.

The ZOC

ZOC (rhymes with sock) is the acronym for Zone Of Catchability, the four
dimensional area (three dimensions plus time) in which a club can be caught. ZOC extension is a goal of good catchers.


Etiquette (Or Something)

Table of Contents

There have been some unwritten (until now) rules established
to insure a good time and help prevent injuries. These are
they:

* Better never than late. This means if you miss a pick-up
or if you seem to stop juggling, don’t restart or throw a
club late. Your partner’s attention may have already
wandered, resulting in an trick called a face bounce.

* Try to throw a little bit outside when you are working on
something that has limited accuracy.

* Never expect the juggling to stop. Nothing is more
embarrassing than to stop juggling (such as to turn and pick
up a club) and then perform a face bounce. It’s entertaining, but it hurts!

* Never throw a club until you know by eye contact that your
partner is ready for it. Beginners often ask what you are
watching exactly when passing. I watch my partner’s eyes
more than anything else.

* Try to stay in the expected timing. Do not throw an extra
club that your partner doesn’t expect.

* This is important: Keep your catching hand fully open. If
you have your hand half open, you can get a direct hit on
the end of a finger that will hurt. I’m sure you know this.
Still, practice always keeping your fingers open, they will
merely flex when hit by a bad club, and not get jabbed.

It seems to take about one year between learning to
pass and getting so good that you almost never hurt your hands.
Have patience, in time, hurt hands rarely happen.

* Learn to pick up clubs quickly. Partners get bored waiting
for you to pick up.

* Some jugglers will just let a club drop rather than making
an effort to get it. These are called Ken Catches, named after a fellow who figured it was the thrower’s own fault if a club was not placed properly in the ZOC, and that was that! Ken Catches
are poor etiquette. Work on moving and extending your reach.
In time you will be capable of fantastic saves. Try to learn
early to catch upside down clubs and fix them, usually done
with a 1-1/2 spin (1-1/2 spin in metric) self throw.

* When starting a new pattern, expect your partner to use
the wrong timing, and you will soon be able to learn to fix
it. If you are thinking four-count and your partner is thinking
two-count, you should be able to multiplex catch your way out
of trouble. In the opposite situation, you can watch eyes,
and throw late.

* Follow a pass that is especially short, long or outside
with another similar throw to give your partner time to
reach the bad throw and return to the regular position.

* Lots of beginners love the right-to-right double, called
the “California Twist,” or more colorfully, the “California Dirt-bag Throw.” Avoid this because it is a pattern
crasher. This will make it hard for your partner to complete
big arm circles, flourishes, swings and other right hand
tricks.

* There is a phenomenon that you may already be aware of,
called Karlos Throws. Most beginners and some experienced
passers have this idiosyncrasy. Karlos Throws are thrown
from in front of your body instead of from the side. The
clubs come to the catcher spinning fast, and sort of nervous.
If the thrower brings the arm down near the side of the body
there is more wind-up of the throwing arm which allows for
greater accuracy and smoothness. This is because you get
more time to accelerate into the throwing plane.

* When a club has fallen where your partner will have to move to pick it up, you should follow the partner with your passes, or perhaps with your entire body, so that the passer doesn’t have to move super-fast to get the club, and instantly return to the former position. So, if your partner has to back up ten feet (three meters), you can advance ten feet, keeping the distance between passers the same. If the club fell to the passer’s left, you can pass outside to the passer’s left, making life easier all around. If the passer has to squat down to get a club, and doesn’t seem able to get back up in time, you can pass low, so the catcher doesn’t have to make an extraordinary reach to maintain the pattern.

Taking it to the next level, if a club has fallen behind your partner, you can guide the partner by passing to where the club is. Experienced passers don’t even have to look around for a missing club. Their partners tell them where it is by passing to the right place.

The exception to following or guiding your partner to a fallen club is when you need to do inside throws to move a beginning passer to his right. He may surprise you and do a face bounce.

* If your partner is getting too near a wall, a pile of props on the floor, or any other troublesome situation, you can move the partner over by slowly throwing passes farther and farther to the right or left, or short, or long – whatever way you want the partner to move. The partner will move in the desired direction automatically in order to maintain the proper orientation to the passing pattern. (Beginners, however, will face bounce on inside passes.)

* You can work on tricks as your partner catches, the
opposite, or you can both throw stuff at the same time.
Ideally, you are both good enough to throw and catch
anything, anytime. All this is good etiquette, but it is
best to discuss your plan first.

* Remember that club passing is a social intercourse,
just like chess, but more so. I still remember from my early
days, passing with the ‘big guys,’ how easily I could be
crushed by off-hand remarks about my throwing and catching,
my stance, or my sense of humor (actually, lack thereof).
The worst was the ultimate “no” when I asked to pass with a ‘big guy.’

I have passed with people who are so intent on showing me everything they’ve got, that I can’t get an artistic pass in edgewise. (In fact, I probably do that to others, but am too thick to realize it.) I have seen jugglers talking and acting crass when passing with or entertaining children. I have seen jugglers insist on two-count when their partner wants to do something else. I have seen jugglers break lights and mirrors, because they just didn’t have consideration for the space they were in. I have seen passers ignore members of the public who have questions or would like to learn something about juggling. We all know jugglers who exhibit some of these behaviors. We have all done some ‘wrong’ things ourselves from time to time. This stuff is not doing our sport any favors. So dudes, do your best to act right!


Tricks

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Here are the tricks I will discuss in this website. It is by no
means all of the tricks that can be done, but I hope it will
give you some stuff to work with. About fifty percent of these
are Jeff originals, the rest are (I hope) public domain. Most jugglers I have spoken with feel that any and all juggling techniques or tricks are by default public domain. They can’t be copyrighted or patented. On the other hand, spoken comedy is the property of the inventors. As a performing juggler you are free to do any tricks you like, but need to restrict your comedy to material you have created, or very old stuff, like from the W. C. Fields days.
They are all yours for the taking. Enjoy!


Parts and Pieces (Basics)

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Back Cross Triple

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It’s good to be proficient with right hand triple-spin back
throws (often called “back-crosses”) in solo juggling and regular triple-spin passes before attempting this trick. The pass itself replaces a
triple-spin pass in any count. It is thrown
like a solo triple back throw but you lean forward just
slightly and project it to your partner. There is a strong
tendency to throw it to your partner’s right side, but it
should cross all the way to partner’s left hand. Like many throwing tricks, if you try to visualize where the club should land, it will tend to go
there.

If the throw doesn’t go well for you, make sure you’re getting it fully into face plane. A 45-degree angle throw generally goes wild.

If you are throwing this in four-count, it is thrown
instead of a right hand self throw to land in your partner’s
hand at the correct time. In two-count, you must follow it
with another triple, or do one cycle of four-count after
the triple. Otherwise, your next single-spin pass would
arrive at the same time that the triple finally arrives, a “simultaneous arrival.”

For an interesting variation, try a triple-spin back
throw to your own left hand instead of a pass in every
others. You will pass a beat late. This is a variation of a four-club steal.


Bash Tricks

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A standard bash trick: After a pass in four-count,
throw the next right club to you own left hand with a double-spin. This gives you a little more time to hold (“set”) the
left club and hit it with your next right. In two-count, you
don’t need this double, because there is no right-to-left self throw, so there is time to simply set
any left club and hit it.

The basics: Try pushing the club you are “bashing” more than
hitting it. Accelerate the bashee and the basher clubs
together. Watch the bashee to see exactly where you are
hitting it. If you hit it near the middle, it will fly flat.
For spins you can learn to hit it in the right place. The
set of a bashee should be very controlled. In other words,
you should place the bashee fully into the correct position
and let it go at the last possible instant. You cannot bash
a club accurately if the bashee is a moving target.

For variety: Try setting a left in front of
your body as usual, but bash it from behind, as in “under
the leg”.


Big Arm Circles

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These are some of the most graphic passing tricks and great
for shows, because they are very reliable. Using any of the
standard approaches to buy some right hand time (multiplex
or left doubles for instance), you can swing a club held in your right hand around in a big circle in the hacksaw plane. You can go clockwise or counter-clockwise. It
is important to start the swing early as possible, in fact
before your multiplex catch or double-spin, in order to get a clean, smooth
circle. For best appearance, work on holding the club by the
very knob and swinging as large as possible. It is wise to
consider people who may be walking behind you. They will not
expect a big arm circle, which can have far-reaching
consequences. (See, I told you about the problem with sense of humor.)

Variations include a forward swing followed by a
shoulder throw, or double circles. (Be careful not to over-tax your shoulder with the centrifugal force generated.)


Bounces

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The basic maneuver is like a tomahawk (chop pass). The club should hit the ground with a forward spin in the hacksaw plane. The knob should be forward. In other words, when the club hits the floor, the knob should be pointing away from you, and the bottom toward you. It must hit flat. If the bottom
hits, the club shell can become broken. You’ll find that American style clubs, and Renegades don’t hold up well to this trick, especially in cold weather. However, you can do it on carpeting all day long, so long as the knobs and bottoms don’t hit the floor. Dowels tend to break. I don’t know what can be done to protect dowels. Although this trick is harder to do with PX3 clubs because the bounce is variable and weak due to the flexible handles, the PX3s mostly won’t break. I believe if you try to bounce a PX3 and the knob hits, you may break the screw that holds the knob. I have broken off several PX3 knobs.

The standard approach is to bounce the right club to your left hand
following the pass in four-count.

A very weird Jeff trick is a right multiplex bounce – I bounce two clubs at once,
followed by a left double-spin pass to the catcher’s left hand
while trying to recover the bounced clubs. Use the same grip
as for multiplex passes.

One time I met up with Michael Marlin at a Hawaiian Juggling Festival. We decided to pass with his brand new Renegade clubs that he had purchased five minutes earlier. I wanted to show off my new multiplex bounce trick, so I did it. Except, one of the clubs didn’t come back up. It just stayed on the floor, looking kind of sad. I picked it up, and that’s when I noticed that I broke one of Michael’s brand new clubs. Fortunately, the Renegades were there at the convention, and replaced the club. They said their warranty “does not include abuse, except for passing with Jeff.” Years later, I believe they amended their warranty to “does not include abuse, especially passing with Jeff.”


Tomahawks

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The word “chops” seems to have two different meanings in the
passing world. Everyone knows chops in three club solo. In
passing it cam also mean a forward-spinning overhead throw, which is more often called “tomahawks.”

This is a difficult trick to learn. The most trouble seems
to come from having the pass crash into the next self throw
coming to your right hand. This is overcome by juggling your
self throws low and wide and by throwing your tomahawk up over the
top of your pattern, to fall gently in front of the catcher. Think too, about throwing the tomahawk from close to the side of your face, so it will actually pass through the inside of your self throw’s trajectory. By doing these things, the tomahawk avoids collisions in three ways, by being thrown over, after, and inside the self-throw.

There are actually two schools of thought regarding where the
tomahawk should be thrown. Most good passers from twenty or more
years ago seem to prefer throwing the tomahawk to the same place
a regular throw would be caught. This requires a higher
level of skill in your catcher however, because it arrives
upside down, or actually, spinning backward. If you watch old videos of the Karamatsov Brothers, you’ll see they always threw tomahawks that way.

Most passers today throw the tomahawk to be caught inside, short, and low because the catch is natural and a beginner can deal with it. Ordinary passes are thrown to the catcher’s left, to avoid facial contact. Since the tomahawk is falling short, with little energy, the catcher’s face is safe. However, if it were thrown outside in the usual way, the catcher would have to hold her hand in an awkward position to catch the club. Try it, throw some low, short, but outside tomahawks, and watch your catcher struggle.

To make the throw, hold the club an inch or so closer to the knob than you normally would. You might feel the knob against the edge of the palm of your hand. Put your thumb on the club, the way you would put your thumb on the back of a hammer handle.



Throw the club not so much forward, as up, to fall gently. If you aim for a place
in front of your partner’s (ahem!) crotch, it will come in
under the pattern and your partner will not need to use a
strange hand position for the catch. Most people throw tomahawks
too hard at first. It is a very wimpy throw when done
right. I know it doesn’t look that way. If the catcher were
to simply ignore a proper incoming tomahawk, the club would poop
out on the floor in front of the catcher’s feet.

Normally, the tomahawk is thrown entirely on the face plane, but an interesting variation is to throw them halfway between the face plane and the water plane. In other words, at a 45-degree angle.


Crotch Bash

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In four-count, put any self throw between your legs and
hold it there until your next pass. In two-count, put any club in your left hand between your legs. The fattest part of the
club should be between the fattest part of your legs, so the knob end is pointing forward. To
pass, hit it from behind with the club in your right hand.
In four-count, there is time to line up the basher with
the bashee using a little test tap just before you whale on
it. This helps your accuracy. The problem is not the pass
itself, but preventing hitting yourself!

To make the trick
more noticeable to the crowd, you may want to wait with it
for a cycle or two, make a regular pass, and then bash it out.
If the crotch bash doesn’t work for you, the most likely problem is that the club is too low, or not far enough forward.



The late Mark Richardson (“Markus Marconi”) had a remarkable variation:
His version was like a regular crotch bash, but before bashing it, he would pass an Albert throw as a pass from back to front underneath. Then, in the next cycle, Marcus would bash the club. Flexibility is helpful, as are tight-fitting pants.


Demultiplex

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The most common option for buying time to do right-handed tricks in four-count passing is multiplex, in which two clubs are caught and held temporarily in the left hand. This is sort of cheating. While most of a general audience won’t notice (or care), the thrower is not juggling for a brief time.

Demultiplex is a great basic for four-count. It allows you to
keep juggling while simultaneously performing a time-consuming right hand trick such as big arm circle, flourish,
swing, etc. If you ever get a chance to watch Bob Vandegrift
of the Renegades, you will see lots of excellent use made of
this fundamental move for thousands of artistic right hand antics.

As a pass is coming in, throw the left club up for a
double-spin, but so that it will return to your left hand.
While it is in the air you can do your right hand trick and
catch the incoming pass in your left. The usual way to end
is to throw that incoming pass to your right with a single
spin. If you need more right hand time, throw the incoming pass club
with a double-spin to your partner’s left and throw the next left
club as a double-spin to your own left hand again. There is
sometimes a problem with the pattern getting tangled up. It
is best to throw the demultiplex self double a little bit
outside of the rest of the pattern, and more-or-less in the face plane. Some people throw it up right in the
middle. This looks better because it doesn’t look like a
trick in itself, which would detract from the right hand
trick you may be doing. Watch Waldo to see good straight up
demultiplex.


Devilstick Maneuvers

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Very difficult stuff. There are two basics that work well
for four-count passing, and can work in two-count if you are very fast. With practice in solo work you can
do a “one handstick” spin. This is one club spinning in the face plane around
another held on your right hand. Set a left club horizontally
over the right club, let it fall and lift it back up, for one revolution around the club you’re holding.
When it is horizontal again push it off toward your
partner. It helps if you can spin it around the middle of the club, close to your hand and thumb. (You can also use two revolutions, but you must
work fast.)

The other devilstick technique is like one handstick half turns, also in the face plane.
Set a left club, hit it once, twice, and the third hit goes
to your partner. For each hit, use the middle of the basher club, striking the bashee very gently near it’s bottom. This has great potential as a solo trick. With practice, you can bash it back and forth endlessly. You can also learn one-and-a-half spin bashes, using two clubs as handsticks, and pretty much all the basic devilstick maneuvers.

Variations include starting a handstick trick with a club balanced vertically on the one you’re holding. Just let vertical club fall, giving it a slight nudge so it is horizontal when you start the trick.

Another variation is after the devilstick trick, bash the club to your partner. It can be flat, or have as many spins as you like.

There are two tricks I would like to see
someday. How about a one handstick spin around the right
club, which you interrupt with the left club so that you can
then do another single spin around the left club, and then pass? The
other would be continuous one
handstick spin around the right club while doing continuous
demultiplex in four-count, or left-to-left double-spin passes to the catcher’s left.


French Chops

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Originated by Arsene DuPin, these are like
ordinary tomahawks, but you pass them from the left side
of you head using your right hand. Timing is important. If your throws are awkward at first, try holding the club back behind your ear as far as you can before you throw it.


Froggie Catch

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Catch an incoming pass with your left hand inverted – held upside down. This
way you can flourish the club as you bring it back to a regular
situation. Your arm and hand will look like a frog’s front
arm because your elbow is bent and forward. While this doesn’t look like much by itself, it is a fundamental for other tricks.

You can take it a step further, with a cross-over froggie catch. Use your right arm in the froggie catch position to catch an incoming pass to your left. Barack demonstrates:




President Obama trying the froggie catch. As you can see, he isn’t very good at keeping his sleeve organized while he does it.


Hawaiian Toe Throw (Two Types)

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You must be barefoot. For the regular version, simply pick up a
dropped club between your big toe and the other toes. Pass
it to your partner as a flat, using only your foot. the more
difficult variation as done by Salty Scott Pruitt is picked
up the same way, but pass it with a rear-ward kick that
brings it up behind your body and sends it over your head to
partner.


Head Balance

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Set a club on your head with your left hand and immediately
take it off with your right. The club can be horizontal or
vertical. Vertical looks harder, but I think it’s not,
because it doesn’t really need to balance, you take it off
before it gets a chance to fall. You can also bash the club off with the club held
in your right hand. In four-count, I throw the next right
club after the pass with a double-spin to my own left hand, to buy the necessary time,
and then set the left club vertical. I then bash it to my
partner and catch the left double to keep juggling.

Try setting a left club vertically on your head with
your left hand, then take it off with your right hand
for an inverted grasp. Throw a Tim Chop.


Head Spin

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The standard head spin is not an easy trick, but it sure is
graphic. I feel it looks much better if only done once. If
you do it many times in a row, the magic of it disappears.
In four-count, grab the next right club after a pass close to
the middle of the club (the fattest part of the handle and the first part of the body). Put
this club on your head and spin it gently in the water plane. This part of the
trick should be practiced by itself considerably. After the
club spins one turn, grab it in your left hand and take it off your head. Try to put
the club way on the top of your head, not forward, because
the spin will look better. Also try to grab it while still
on your head, don’t let it fall and then catch it.

If you are having trouble with the head spin, make sure you are setting the club on
your head carefully in just the right place and spin it
gently. There is a tendency to push it right off your head
instead. Make sure you grab the club near the middle. This
is a difficult trick if done from the end of the handle.
In other words, your hand should be over the axis of the spin when you set the club.




The grasp for a headspin, over the axis of spin

And, keep the rest of your pattern low, so these clubs
don’t crash into your spinning club.

Variations: Let the club spin two turns (very
difficult). You can spin a left club in two-count. In four-count, you can spin a club with your right hand, make a
pass, then re-spin the same club with your left hand in the
opposite direction just after the pass. You can also throw a
fake head spin that spins in the same plane but a couple of
inches above your head. It never actually touches.

You can combine two head tricks. In others, after
a pass, do a left hand, vertical head balance, and take it off
with your right hand, but put the same club back on your
head again horizontally and do a head spin, which you then
remove with your left hand.

Believe it or not, you can do a double headspin with two clubs spinning in opposite directions in the water plane. Set and spin a right-hand club in the usual way, except with your hand a bit down the handle from the axis of the spin. At the same time, set a club from your left hand on top of axis of the right one, and spin it in the opposite direction.


Heel Kick-Up

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This is just a pick-up technique that you can use while passing,
but it is very good for solo juggling too. Walk past a club
that has fallen on the floor. You should be coming from the
direction of the knob and pass the fat end (“bottom”) of the club. As
you go past, rub your heel on the bottom end of the club and press
down. the club will spin up in the hacksaw plane to your hand, to be caught just to the side of and behind your body as you continue walking forward. I think Craig
Barnes invented this one. If you have trouble with it hitting the back of your leg, curve to your left as you walk by and kick up the club.




Position of foot and club just prior to a heel kick-up

As a passing trick, you can’t really walk anywhere, so instead, you can optionally combine it with a pirouette. Do the heel kick-up in place, then in one smooth motion before you pass, continue the natural counter-clockwise spin of your body, completing a pirouette.


Suicide Catch

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Oh, Oh, this one! Warn your catcher first. In four-count,
after a pass, throw yourself a right double-spin to your left
hand. Set the left club horizontal and bash the bottom of it
with the right club. Hit it hard for lots of spin in the face plane, but be careful to avoid excessive forward velocity to your partner.
If you do it right, partner will be able to catch it by
simply holding her hand in the catching position and closing on the
club when it hits. It is important to keep your hand open
and flexible, to prevent hurt fingertips. In two-count, just
go for it, no special preparation throws are necessary.

The height of the suicide catch may vary. You may find it easier to catch, and better-looking to the audience, to make it a high pass. The thrower then has to wait a bit, since the cycle will run late.

This can also be done in the hacksaw plane, but does not have quite the same visual impact.

There is also a self suicide catch, if you don’t want to
risk your partner’s hand. In four-count, after a pass, throw a
double-spin right to left self throw, set and bash the left
club sort of high and back to your own right hand, keeping it well outside (to your right). Pass the basher club, catch the bashee and resume juggling.

A better self suicide catch is done immediately after a
pass. Bash the right hand club as high as a triple, again in the face plane, pass the next right hand club while the bashee is still spinning, and
then catch the bashee.


Kicks

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Kicks can be done in four-count, two-count, pretty much any count. The basic move
is to set (hold) a club low and horizontal in front of your
body and kick it to you partner. The variations are endless.
You can set with left hand and kick with right or left foot
about equally well. Setting with right hand is more
difficult, but not impossible. The kick itself should be
more of a lift than a hit. Accelerate the club and your foot
together. The usual part of your foot is the toe or the top
of your ankle. You may want to use the front of the sole of
your shoe instead. This requires greater flexibility. In
four-count, it is easier to throw yourself a right to left
double before you set the left club. This gives you more
time to get the set accurate.



When doing a ‘normal’ kick, use the top of your foot near the ankle, so you will not hurt your toes or metatarsal bones. It is best to wear shoes and socks until you are secure in this trick, knowing that the proper part of your foot will contact the club every time. Also, pay attention to which part of the club you contact. If you kick the handle, not only will it hurt, but the club will go off with a spin that will make it hard to catch. Look at the photo, it shows the foot aligned with the axis of the club, so you’ll end up with a flat kick pass.

You will probably discover that lowering the club quite a bit with your hand results in greater accuracy than bringing your foot way up.


Kick-Ups

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This is the same trick as in solo juggling, where you roll a
club onto your foot and by bending your knee, the club spins
up to where you can catch it.




The position of the club prior to a kick-up

In passing it can be a self throw, or a pass to your partner. It works in all standard counts. All you have to do is figure out the timing. In others, I recommend kicking it from your right foot to your right hand directly
after throwing a pass, while you hold a left club instead of throwing it to your right hand. So, your hold happens in that part of the pattern where a club is missing – during the time your partner won’t pass a club. You can also drop a club into an immediate kick-up, Michael Kass-style. Drop a club so it lands in just about the right orientation on on your foot, just as you are bring your foot up and back, and you’ll have a kick-up that doesn’t even need to touch the ground.

If kick ups won’t work for you, make sure you are bending your knee quite a bit. Also, imagine you are trying to kick yourself in the butt. The idea is not to lift the club up with your foot, but to kick back, causing the leverage of the spin to lift the club. To practice, you might try rolling a club onto your foot, catching the knob end of the handle against the lower part of your shin, and lifting the club slowly off the ground, so the junction of the handle and knob – approximately the axis of the club’s spin, is resting on the outer edge of your foot. You’ll find this lift maneuver is rather difficult, more difficult than the kick-up itself, but if you can start the lift, then with a bit of acceleration, you can actually launch the kick-up, rather than trying to just balance the club.

Once you learn kick-ups, you might double-spin and triple-spin kick-ups.

I have seen passers struggle to turn the club around 180 degrees so they can do a kick-up. There is no need. The reverse version, as shown below, works just as well, and it tends to impress other jugglers. The only difference is you have to snap it up just a bit more to get the same lift.




Position of club for reverse kick-up


Kick-Ups From Floor Set

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This is a great four-count trick but looks a bit fast in
two-count. Set the next left club after a pass horizontal and
very low. As you let it drop to the floor, you also lift
your right foot and step lightly on the club. The foot and the club
should come to a stop on the floor together. With the club
trapped under your foot thus, it can’t bounce out of
position as it hits the floor. You can hold the club under
your foot as long as you like. Just before you are ready to
kick pass it, move your foot off the club and position your
toe just behind the middle of the club. To pass, swing your
foot up in a gradually accelerating arc. Your foot and the
club should accelerate together.


Knee Kick

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Same as a foot kick, but you use your knee instead. The club
is usually set horizontally (in the water plane) with the left hand. If you wish to send it from a
vertical set, use the fleshy part of your thigh, not the
bony part of your knee, or it will hurt!


Le Mediocre Shoulder Throw

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This one was invented by numbers juggler, Andrew Denton.
In any pattern, catch a club backwards that you will pass,
as if you were going to flourish it, but closer to the knob.
Pass it as a shoulder throw. With this inverted grasp, you
will have to be quite flexible to make this throw work.


Left French Chops

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In two-count, simply throw a French chop, but use your left
hand. There is a tendency to underspin, so wind up you wrist
well to get the momentum for a proper spin. The club should
float somewhat. In four-count, throw a right to left self
double and then the left French chop.


The Low Throw

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This one is strictly art. Perhaps you know the multiplex
pirouette trick, where you catch an extra club in your left
hand, reach around and take the next incoming pass with your
right hand, continue turning around slowly and then throw
off the same club as a flat pass. The difference here, is
that you go down to your knees and hold the subject club
(incoming pass) about 3″ above the floor as you pirouette.
Then rise up again to standing position and pass it flat. If
you do this whole operation smoothly, it will get a laugh because it just looks goofy.


Multiplex Catch

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The “multiplex catch” is often just called “multiplexing.” This is a four-count fundamental. With multiplex you can buy
time to do tricks in your right hand. The most common variation is to grab an incoming pass
in your left hand without letting go of the club that’s
already there. This stops your juggling pattern momentarily,
so you can do a trick without having to deal with
other clubs in the air. There are two ways to end multiplex.
You can hand two clubs to your right hand, and then it’s
like starting all over again, or hold one left club while
throwing the other left club to your right hand with a
single-spin, to resume juggling. For right hand multiplex,
after any pass, hand the left club to your right hand
Your right hand will now have two clubs while your left hand
can do a trick. Restart by throwing one of the right hand
clubs to your partner. Multiplexes can be done other ways
too, just make up whatever you need.

If you are having trouble getting the catch to work
properly, try angling the “bottom” (fat end, which is actually pointing up) of the first club in your hand toward your face as you catch the second one.
Open your hand wide, so you don’t hurt your fingers. When
done properly, the handles will hit together, making a loud
snap, unless you want to buffer this sound for show reasons.


Multiplex Passes

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This is a two-count trick only. Well, that’s not entirely true. Like so many passing tricks, a good catcher can learn to handle just about any ZOC or timing violation. After any pass, as fast as you
can, hand the left club into your right hand along with the
club already there. The handles should be gripped the
opposite orientation as most people normally hold two clubs prior to
starting three club juggling. I mean, the handle of the
second, inside club should be under the first.



Catch the next
incoming pass and throw it to your right hand. Wait as long
as you can with this self throw in the air before throwing
the multiplex. What I’m trying to say is: throw the
multiplex as late as possible, and then it should float
quite high to arrive late to your partner, so it can be
dealt with. There is a tendency for these two clubs to foul
with the partner’s last pass to you. You can throw these
spun or flat. You can pass them as a chop or double- or
triple-spins. Catchers should not hesitate in continuing to
pass clubs as they see a multiplex developing.

When teaching a catcher how to handle this, you need to remind them as you are setting up the throw that they must keep passing, even when they aren’t getting anything from you. Otherwise, their natural tendency is to stop, which will make it impossible (for them) to catch the multiplex pass.

This is less important for experienced catchers, because if they don’t notice you setting up, they’ll easily handle the surprise by multiplex catching in one hand.

There is another way to get two clubs in your right
hand. You can do a regular self throw from your left hand,
and multiplex catch in your right, but you must sort of turn
your wrist to get the second club handle to come in under
the first club handle.

A couple of interesting variations can be performed. You can put the second club in your right hand backwards, so you are grabbing both clubs by the handles, but the bottoms stick out in opposite directions. With an overhead overhand throw, toss them up flat, to about triple-spin height. They will each make a slow transverse single-spin in the face plane as they fall, perfectly aligned for your parter to catch them.

Another variation is to simply throw the multiplex to triple-spin height.

Yet another variation is to throw them as transverse double-spins in the face plane. For transverse multiplex passes, you’ll want to put one club’s handle about four inches (10cm) in front of the other. OK, you want more? How about transverse back-cross double multiplex?

Oh gosh, here comes two more variations: You can throw a multiplex tomahawk. You don’t need to do anything different. Use the same catch as you would for an ordinary multiplex pass. Throw the two clubs from the tomahawk position in the normal way, making sure to add as much float as you can. It should work out fine. If not, sorry.

And then there’s multiplex shoulder throws. In this case, like a regular shoulder throw, you’ll want to let both clubs slip down to the knobs, so your final grip is on the edges of the knobs with your index finger and thumb. The club knobs will be kind of locked together naturally. Make sure to bend your elbow as much as you can. This, too, should be a floaty pass.

Just when you thought you were done, you can also throw transverse back-cross multiplexes.


Double Under Triple

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Now that you can do multiplex passes, you might consider putting the inside club far forward of the outside club in your right hand. Throw it high to your partner, right over the midline of your partner’s body so that one club comes down as a double-spin to the partner’s left hand, and the other comes down as a triple to the right hand. This is pass is thrown on the hacksaw plane.


Multiplex Triples

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There is a very advanced four-count thing you may
like to try. Do you know the three club start in solo juggling where you
throw all three clubs up at the same time, two of these do
double-spins and the middle one goes up for a triple? If you
can do this, you can set it up in four-count between
passes, if you are fast.




The grip for a multiplex triple throw




The same grip, seen from below

Throw the whole works sort of aimed
at your partner. If you get it right, the triple will come
to your partner and the two doubles will come down to you (well,
maybe you’ll have to reach a little bit forward). You catch the incoming pass,
throw it up again double spun to yourself, being careful not
to foul the pattern with it, and then catch the two from the
multiplex. Finish the four-count cycle and then resume as usual.
Your partner will have to juggle a six-count, or just hold still for a moment to maintain the proper timing. This is otherwise a natural move for the catcher, similar to catching a triple thrown at the time a single-spin pass
is normally thrown.

Another version of this is to throw all three clubs to yourself, so that you’ll be catching a pair of double-spun clubs, and then the triple-spun club. The only problem is your partner has to realize not to throw you a club before you are finished, or you’ll end up with simultaneous arrivals at a difficult time.

The craziest version is done in two-count. Gather three clubs as you would to do the three-high solo start. Step forward, and launch all three in the air to fall just in front of your catcher. Catching it can be a challenge. Hopefully, your catcher will know enough to keep passing in the regular timing as you are setting it up. Sometimes, multiplex catching in one hand is helpful. Since the two lower clubs are going to undoubtedly be spun wrong (1-1/2 or 2-1/2 spins) anyway, you might reach up and catch them in whatever orientation as soon as you can, allowing the third to fall farther if needed, when you can then catch it low. This buys a lot of time.

Additional variations include throwing the bunch of three as a tomahawk pass, or do a big arm circle on the face plane while holding all three, then pass them as a back-cross pass.


Four and Five High

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Five-high is actually easier to throw and to catch than four-high, so we’ll consider that first.

Once you can throw a multiplex triple out of two-count so that your catcher can absorb all three clubs, you might try five-high. Set up the three clubs in your right hand in the normal way. Now, multiplex catch a second club in your left hand. You might have to twist your wrist a bit so that the inside club lands with its handle under the outside club. The next step is to throw a regular two-club multiplex pass to your catcher, but from your left hand. Remember, like all two-club multiplex throws, you ought to float your clubs a bit. Wait until your partner catches them, and starts passing them back, then throw the multiplex triple from your right hand at the last possible moment. Interestingly, this buys some right hand time, and you can actually throw a more controlled multiplex triple from within five-high, than you can as an independent trick. The only thing is, it takes so long to learn to set this up, you’ll probably want to learn to throw the regular multiplex triple first.

Four high is a very advanced trick if you do it the hard way. It’s not so bad if you do it the easy way.

Set up an ordinary two-club multiplex in your right hand. Before you throw those, set up a two-club multiplex grip in your left hand as well. So, you have two clubs ready to multiplex pass in your right hand, and two more in your left. Catching the second club in your left hand with the handle under the club you were already holding may take some practice, but you’ll get it eventually,

The easy way to do Four High is to throw the two clubs in your left hand as floaty single-spin passes. Just as your catcher is absorbing those, throw the two from your right hand as triples or quads.

The hard way is far more interesting, but nearly impossible to get right. You throw all four clubs simultaneously. A pair of singles from your left hand, and at the exact same time, a pair of quads from your right. The tendency you’ll need to over come is to throw the pair from the left with too much spin, resulting in one-and-a-half spin passes, and the pair from the right too low, so they come down too soon and kill the catcher.


Railroad Tracks

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After a pass in four-count, drop a club to the floor and
put your foot on it to hold it transverse in front of you.
After the next pass, stoop down and place another club
parallel to the first and about 12 inches (30 cm) in front of it.
Place another club parallel again and another 12 inches in front
of that one. Pick up the first floor club, pass it, and
catch the next incoming. Place the incoming parallel to and
in front of the latest one you have on the floor, pick up
the farthest back one, put it in front, pick up the now
farthest back one and pass it. Repeat. What makes it look
particularly funny is that after a few cycles, you will back
your partner into the wall.


Shoulder Passes

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Everybody hates learning these, but I have a couple of
suggestions that may help. Learn tomahawks first or
simultaneously. Much of the basics are the same. Throw shoulder
passes from the very knob, not the handle. Keep your self
throws low and wide. Try to hear the wind off the shoulder
pass, meaning pass it as close to your ear as possible, which will make sure your passes stay in the hacksaw plane. Your
grip on the clubs you are going to shoulder pass should be
loose until the last moment to allow the club to slip from
the handle to the knob. The grip for the throw itself is
only two fingers, your thumb and the side of the outermost
joint of your index finger.

Here is a sequence for learning shoulder throws which
seems weird, but is remarkably effective for getting you to
do this trick well, in a fairly short period of time:

1. Learn to multiplex catch an incoming pass in your left
hand, hand them to your right hand, then re-start. Notice how much time this buys.

2. Learn a forward big arm circle (hacksaw plane) using your right arm while
multiplex catching. Forward means clockwise as seen by someone
standing to your right.

3. Learn to shoulder throw the club at the end of the big
arm circle. This should be done as one smooth motion. As the
big arm circle is happening, let the club slip in your grip
from the handle to the knob. The shoulder throw is easier as
a suffix to a big arm circle than as a trick in itself
because the big circle sets the club momentum in the proper
plane.

4. After you are good at step three, you can learn the
shoulder throw without the big arm circle, and eventually without the multiplex.


Slapbacks

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If you were to forget to close your hand while catching a
club, the club would hit your palm and then bounce off,
spinning backward. After a half or full turn, you could catch it
again, and then do whatever you like with it. You can
exaggerate the bounce by sort of hitting the club with your
open palm. A favorite of mine is to do a slapback before a
shoulder throw pass.


Four Club Steals

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In San Jose you may find people who do this in two-count, but
is is usually done only in four-count, because your
partner may not understand unless by prior arrangement.
Have you ever done triple-singles with four clubs? The
basics are the same. If you haven’t, don’t despair, this is
a good way to learn a four club solo pattern. Instead of a
pass, throw a triple-spin throw from your right to your own
left hand. Let it float, in other words, it should be quite
high and spinning slowly. While this club is up, you will catch the incoming
pass and pass the next club in your right hand. Now catch
the high throw and resume. Instead of resuming, you can send
up another self triple. This is four club juggling!

You can also use back-cross throws, transverses or flats for
the high self throws.

Another four club steal: throw a right
double back to your own right hand, and more same-hand self
doubles with both hands, using all clubs that you have (four).

Let me expound on etiquette here. It is generally not
cool to do lots of long steals. On the other hand, its not
cool to complain about partner doing steals. You can always
practice swinging and flourishes while your partner is performing a long steal.

Oh, before I forget, here’s a great four-club steal, which will work in two-count or four-count: As with an ordinary four-club steal, throw a triple from your right hand to your left instead of a pass. Then throw a triple from your left to your right, and two more triples, one from each hand. So, you will have thrown four clubs in the air in rapid succession, resulting in a four-high. The succession isn’t all that rapid. If you have trouble with this trick, slow it down, and float your throws. As the four high comes down, resume passing. Your partner will wait. With just two clubs, what else can she do? Belay that. You know she can throw a club to you at any time, but in general, an experienced catcher won’t throw one of two, but will wait until passing is necessary.


Toe Pick-Up

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If a club has fallen so that is laying in front of you and more or less transverse, with the knob pointing to your left and the bottom to your right, you can do a toe pick-up pass. While idling with your partner using the five remaining clubs, position your toe behind the middle of the club.

Whenever you are ready, you can accelerate your foot and the club together instead of a pass. It will come up as a nice flat pass to your partner, where it can be easily caught.

If the club isn’t in the exact right orientation, you can move it around with your feet a bit first. It can be done with the knob facing your right, but you’ll find this orientation is easier to kick up accurately at first. And of course, you can reverse the whole thing, using your right foot.

You may have trouble with toe pick-ups if you have shows that are tall at the front. You might try it barefoot. You’ll find it is much easier on grass than on a solid surface.


Toe Kick-Up Pass

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If you have a club on the floor with the fat end facing you,
rub the bottom of your toe against the end of the club while
pressing down and the club will spin up in the hacksaw plane. If you do this with
enough force, the club will come up to where you can catch
it. But this trick is different. Use less force, just enough
to get the club vertical in front of your foot, then kick-
pass it to your partner.


Tim Chops (Inverted Tomahawks)

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Invented by Tim King in London, this is kind of weird.
Catch a right club upside down (“attack catch“) and throw it tomahawk style anyway. Even though your hand is sort of
backward, you can learn easily enough to get a club that
arrives to partner like a regular tomahawk. In order for it to
work right, you have to hold the club loosely and cock your
hand back over your shoulder before throwing. Since this
stance is time consuming to get into, you may want to do
this out of a multiplex or demultiplex at first.


Trouts

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Grab the club that you are going to pass backwards as you
would for a flourish. This is called an attack catch. Throw
it flat, but with some float, to your partner.


Waffle

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Waffle is more of a silly non-competitive game than a trick. In four-count, you
throw a flat as high as a double-spin to your partner’s
right hand. Your partner has to throw the same club back to
your right hand as a flat. Then you throw it back flat
again, etc. The important part is that you must both scream
in falsetto, “WAFFLE!” each time you throw the flat.


ZOC Extension

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ZOC is an acronym for Zone Of Catchability.
If you get bored you can play with zoc extension. You can
make your partner dance! With practice, you’ll be amazed how far out of the ZOC you can throw a club that your catcher can still absorb.


The Hero Catch

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If you’ve done any artistic passing at all, you’ve seen the occasional triple that goes way long behind the catcher. The solution is a “hero catch.” If the club is going so far behind you that you can’t easily step back to catch it, you can slam the club you’re holding in your right hand into your left hand along with the club it is already holding. At the same time, you turn a half-turn counter-clockwise and run backward, while keeping an eye on that errant triple. Catch it in your right hand in front of you as it travels over your shoulder. Continue your counter-clockwise turn so you are now facing your partner, and even though you may be a considerable distance away, pass the club. Hand or throw one of the two clubs in your left hand to your right, walk back to the proper position, and you’re back in the game as if nothing happened. Ideally, your partner will understand what is going on, and will throw the pass to you wherever you are in the process, meaning, generally, a long pass.

To the audience, this looks absolutely amazing, although you’ll find it is quite easy. Sometimes jugglers throw this on purpose, just in order to make their catcher look amazing.


Balance Bash

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In every others, after a pass, set the club which is in your
left hand onto the club in your right hand so that it is
balanced vertically (knob end down). This must be done fast,
before you receive the incoming pass. When it is time for
your next pass, hit the balanced club with the club that is
now in your left hand. Hitting the balanced club
approximately in the middle will result in a flat pass. Hit
it low for a regular spin. If you have trouble maintaining
balance, try paying attention only to the top of the
balanced club for the whole time it is there. This balance
is easier if the knob of the balanced club is very close to
your right hand, not on the fat part of the club you are
holding.

Variations include:

Move the club you are holding in your right hand slightly to the left so the balanced club will start to fall. As the balanced club becomes horizontal, bash pass it.

Suddenly move the club you are holding in your right hand upward a bit and pull it back a bit so the balanced club jumps into the air and spins one-half turn in the reverse direction. When the bottom end comes around, bash it to your partner.

Let the balanced club fall off, but before it hits the floor, kick it to your partner. For this to work, you’ll want to practice setting up the fall so that the club spins in the right plane and for the right amount of spin. The two obvious ways are for it to land transverse and horizontal on your foot (easy), or with the bottom aligned with your toe (hard).


Balance Fake

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Set a club in a balance as described in the last trick, but
instead of hitting the balanced club, lift it straight up
about ten inches (25 cm) and pass the club it was balanced on. Then
catch it in your right hand and keep juggling.


Balance Send

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Set a club in a balance as above. After allowing it to start
falling forward in the hacksaw plane, push it toward your partner using the club
it is balanced on.


Two Hand Tomahawks

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Throw an ordinary tomahawk pass from your right hand. Catch the
left to right self throw in the usual way, but just hold it in your right hand.
Catch the next incoming pass in your left and pass it back
right away, from the left hand, as a tomahawk. Remember to wind
your wrist back before throwing or you won’t get enough
spin. Catch the next incoming club and throw it to your right
hand. While this club is in the air, pass the next right
hand tomahawk, then catch the left to right self throw. Repeat.
It helps to throw the left passes a little bit high and
floaty, to keep the timing more or less correct for the
catcher. This trick runs more slowly than you might think. Also try to catch the clubs you will tomahawk from your left hand
close to the knobs, just as you do with your right hand
thrown tomahawks.

At first, you’ll have some accuracy issues, especially with your left hand, and you may have some timing issues. Notice what your catcher is doing, and try to make the catcher’s job easier. That may mean you need to shorten your left tomahawks, or modify the timing, so the catcher isn’t running like a Harley-Davidson engine: thump-thump, thump-thump, etc. You ultimately want each catch to come in the ordinary two-count rhythm.

After you learn this one you may want to try the same
trick with all flats. Try all shoulder throws.


Crossover Flowers

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In every others, after any pass, with both hands at once,
throw double-spin transverse throws in the face plane to the opposite hands.
This is sort of like “One-up, Two-up,” except the ‘two’
cross in front of your face. One club must be slightly in
front of the other. While these two are in the air, you will
have to catch an incoming pass and return it to your partner
with a left to left double. Some people will use a left to
left double before the trick, too. A variation: Instead of
double-spins, use flats. However you do it, decide in
advance which club will cross in front of the other, or you
will crash them.


Debroids

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This graphic four-count trick was invented by Debra
Moorestein. After a pass, throw a double-spin windmill
underhand transverse in the face plane from your left to your right hand,
created by winding up your wrist a bit. Just after this,
throw a transverse double from right to left over the top of
the windmill. Pass, and resume. It looks especially nice if you continue for several cycles.


Joshie’s Throws

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Named after Josh Anselmo, a fellow who did this particularly well: In two-count, pass a right club between your legs from behind
with your right hand. Do not lift a foot off the ground if
you want to do this the hard way. The next pass is thrown
with your left hand in the same way. See continuous chops.
Every other left catch will be thrown to your right hand
while your right hand is throwing the between legs pass. The
alternating left catches will be thrown directly back from
the left hand, but also from between the legs. Try to get
the clubs passed from the left hand to float almost to the
height of double-spin passes. This will help the catcher because
otherwise the left clubs arrive early.


Simultaneous Backcross

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See Crossover Flowers, the only difference is that the clubs are both thrown as double-spin back-crosses in the face plane. Simultaneously.
Sounds easy, doesn’t it? Try it! I have been working (not
too seriously) for two years on this one, ever since I saw
Izzy Tooinsky do it with four club solo juggling! One thing
helps, cheat. Instead of truly simultaneous, try throwing
one club just a fraction later than the other. Another thing that helps is to decide in advance which club will pass in front of the other. After you
learn it out of time, you can work on your “simultaneouity”
later.


Jordan’s Kick

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Here’s a very showy trick invented by Jordan Saturen of Ashland, Oregon:

Lift up your right leg and bend your knee, and at the same time place a club behind your knee, so it is trapped there. You are now standing with one leg held high and bent sufficiently so the club stays there. If you have trouble holding the club, make sure it is caught by the handle, not the fatter area of the club.

When there’s an opening in the cycle to pass a club, Jump in the air, and straighten your bent leg so the club falls down, onto your lower foot which just jumped. The momentum of your jump should kick the club to your catcher.


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The stance is reminiscent of the pose used as the ultimate maneuver, called The Crane, in the first Karate Kid movie. To make it more like The Crane, you can hold your hands up with wrists bent down, and the clubs you are holding can be angled so as to enhance the look.


Back To Back Passing

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To pass to someone who is standing back to back with you, avoid the temptation to chuck the club way behind you. In fact, you want to throw the clubs up, generally for double-spins almost to fall on your own shoulder if the other person doesn’t catch them. Sometimes, you need to communicate when to start, but with practice, you can feel the movement of when the other person starts, starting yourself a split-second later. In two-count, and four-count, there is a lot of room for imprecision.

You’ll find that true back-to-back is easier than one person facing forward and the other backward, since that requires that one of the passers pass left-handed.


Standing Two High

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Do not do this without an experienced coach until you learn the techniques entirely. For all you know, I’ve left something important out, or you may misinterpret my instructions, which could result in an injury.

To stand on someone’s shoulders, the most important thing for stability is to get your feet and legs oriented correctly.

* Put the balls of your feet on the shoulders, not the arches.

* Bend your knees.

* Pinch your heels together.

With these three factors taken care of, you can pretty press against the back of the bottom person’s head with your lower shins, while countering that forward pressure with your feet pressing back against the shoulders. It takes some practice to learn this position, but once you ‘get it,’ you’ll be amazed at the stability.

With that connection, you can actually drive the lower person. If you lean to the left, the bottom person pretty much has to take a step to the left or even turn to the left. If you lean forward, the bottom person advances. If you lean back, the bottom person stops or even backs up.

The first times you try this, have lots of padding on the floor or a nice soggy lawn. Be barefoot. Make sure the bottom person is aware that the back needs to be kept straight to avoid injury.

Have spotters, people who will catch you if you fall. The spotters, and the bottom person, must absolutely let go of your lower legs or feet, and catch you above the waist. Otherwise, as you fall, you’ll crash face-first to the ground. At minimum, you’ll hurt your wrists when the spotters try to help by grabbing you below the waist, as you tip over, and reach for the ground to break your fall.

There are two typical approaches to getting on. Both should be tried without holding clubs, at first.

The first is to stand behind the bottom person who reaches over her head, and firmly holds hands with you. The bottom person bends her knees quite a bit, with one foot in front of the other. You step behind the bottom person’s farther back knee, or upper calf, or side of the waist, then immediately step with your other foot onto her shoulder. Finally, you move your first foot from the back of the knee, or waist, to the other shoulder, while still holding hands. Using the handholds, you take a few little steps until you gain a good footing, the rise up, letting go of the hands.

The other way is to face the bottom person, grasp hands firmly, with the arms crossed, so that when you walk behind the person, the arms will uncross. In one smooth move, you walk around the back of the person, while placing one foot on the waist, stepping firmly so you gain altitude, and place the other foot on the person’s far shoulder. Then you move the foot from the waist to the other shoulder. While still holding hands, take some small steps to put your feet in the right place, grasp the head between your lower shins. Let go of the hands when you feel stable. Oddly, once you stand up almost fully, allowing quite a bit of flex at the knees, you’ll feel more stable than when holding hands and not fully upright.

When learning this, after you have let go of the bottom person’s hands, that person can put her hands on the back of your calves, pulling you sort of down and forward to help lock you into position. It is important that the bottom person let go if you start to fall. This is counter-reflexive. The bottom person would normally want to hold onto your calves, to ‘help’ you. But it makes matters worse, since you can’t land on your feet if your legs are held.

Dismounting should be done boldly. At first, when you are just learning, and have lots of padding on the floor, you can just jump forward and land, making sure to entirely clear the bottom person’s body. You don’t want to come down right on top of the bottom person for a whole variety of reasons. Matters are complicated by the fact that as you try to jump forward, the action pushes the bottom person’s shoulders back. Ideally, the bottom person will know what’s happening, and lean forward a bit.

If for any reason you’re going to get off backward, staying clear of the bottom person is still important. Getting off backward is not recommended, so maintain your balance. If necessary, it is better to lean too far forward, pressing hard against the bottom person’s head, than to tip backward, losing contact with the head. Because if you let that happen, it’s all over!

Once you are comfortable with the forward dismount, you can grasp hands with the bottom person. Keeping your arms fairly stiff, but not locked solid, the lower person can use arm strength to guide you down smoothly and slowly. As the bottom person is guiding you down, the bottom person is lowering into a crouch position while keeping her back straight. This is much more comfortable on your feet and ankles.

Once you’re gaining confidence with all this, you and the bottom person can each hold three clubs as you mount. Grab wrists instead of hands when holding clubs.

You’ll find it is much easier to do a feed with someone standing on the ground, or on a giraffe unicycle or stilts, than to pass just up and down with the person you’re standing on. There are three reasons. One is that one of you has to pass left-handed.

Another is that while the bottom person only has to throw up to you, which is easy, you have to learn a new kind of pass – a drop. One of the easier ways to do that is with flats. The more important reason is that the bottom person cannot look up, so you’d have to drop your passes quite accurately.

When you’re the top person, you have to reduce the spin on your passes, so they’ll fall naturally to a passer standing on the ground. If you’re the bottom person, nothing changes except that your shoulders feel somewhat restricted, so of course the person you’re passing with should be accurate.

If you drop a club, the person you’re standing on can do the usual kick-up, even though you’re standing on her shoulders. The only difference is the kick-up should be high enough that you can reach it, typically with two spins.


Tweezers

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Tweezers is a pickup. You can do it as a solo or passing trick. It’s easier in slow counts, such as four-count.

If you have a club on the ground with the knob more-or-less facing you, and the bottom facing away, you can do this:

1. Hold a club in each hand.

2. Gently squeeze the club on the ground between the two clubs you are holding, so that the fattest part of the three clubs are in contact.

3. Squeeze a bit harder as you lift your two clubs fairly quickly into the air. The trapped club will be lifted with them. However, it will naturally rotate as you lift it, since the points of contact between the three clubs are behind the axis of spin.

4. Let go of the trapped club as it continues to spin up into the air and then start juggling or passing.

In any normal count, you can just guide the middle club as it spins into a pass to your catcher. Or, you can let it spin up to yourself as a self-throw, and pass the club you are holding in your right hand. This second version looks better.




Tweezers: The middle club is just starting to be lifted. Can you see how it will naturally spin in the hacksaw plane?


Wine Bottles

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I believe David Kha is the inventor of Wine Bottles, or perhaps you might call them “overhead bottom bashes.” In four-count, throw a right to left double-spin self-throw. While it is in the air, hold a left club overhead on the right side of your body so the bottom is facing you, then tap it with the club in your right hand. It will sail to your catcher as a flat pass.

In two-count, you may be able to squeeze into the normal timing, or you can preceed the wine bottle with a left-to-left double-spin pass.


Potatoes

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You say potato, and I say potato. . . never mind.

Put two clubs in your right and so that the handle of the inside club is under the handle of the outside club. Squeeze them a bit tightly. Pass the pair of clubs flat (no spin) to your partner as a bunch. Just as you pass, let off the pressure so you are not squeezing at all. This will (hopefully) cause the club handles to stay in close proximity to each other. Your partner will catch them both in a single grasp if all goes well. If not, the catcher may have to catch one in each hand, possibly even involving a multiplex or body catch. You can sneak this in pretty much any time in any count. It is up to the catcher to resume normally. Most of the time, unless the catcher over-thinks it, all the catcher has to do is throw one, then the other club to her own right hand in the normal timing. This ought to be easy, because since you’ve thrown two clubs at once, you will not be sending a pass in the next cycle.


Charlie Brown’s Punch

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In two-count, as you see the incoming club rotate to just a bit less than vertical, using your left hand, with a closed fist, punch it back to your partner’s left hand.
It is important to punch the soft part of the club just beyond the handle. This way it will go off as a flat pass, and will not hurt your hand.

In four-count and other patterns, you have several options, such as punching an incoming pass up to triple-height – so the timing will work right, or throwing a flat or slowly spinning self-throw to your right hand, and punch it with your right hand.


Knee Lever

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Turn slightly to your left. Place the left club on your right knee with the bottom facing your catcher. Actually, the club should be a couple inches (5 cm) above your knee, on a fleshy area of your upper leg. Bash down on the bottom of the club on your knee with the club in your right hand. At the same time, raise your knee. If all goes well, this results in a pass with an explosive start that spins like a tomahawk. The ideal pass will go fairly high in the air and fall gracefully to your catcher.

You can also bash directly on the middle of the club above your knee with your right club, so that it bounces up, and goes to your catcher as a flat.


Backward Shoulder Throws

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In any count, you can throw your left-to-right self throw with an extra half-spin, so it is caught by the bottom (fat end) of the club in your right hand. Holding it as close as you can to the very bottom end, shoulder throw it in the normal way, except let it float higher, or spin faster, to make up for the extra half-spin. This requires quite a bit of flexibility. It helps to bend your elbow quite a bit. When I do it, it feels like I’m snapping my wrist around quite a bit faster than normal.

An easier version is to do backward tomahawks. Using the same set-up, throw a tomahawk with an extra half-spin while holding the club by the bottom.

The audience, even if it includes other jugglers, won’t see the difference. Rather than put all the hard work of learning this trick to waste, you can do a couple of Pseudo Tomahawks before letting the club go. This applies for shoulder throws as well as tomahawks. You can show off the backward grip before you pass it.


Full Monte Kick

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In four-count, instead of a pass, throw a floaty single-spin pass from your left to your right hand, but don’t catch it. Instead, step back a bit, and when it is vertical, or just a bit tipped back, kick it with the flat of your foot to your partner. In order to get it to go to your partner’s left, rather than midline, you might want to step to your left a bit as you step back. Generally, you’ll want to kick quite high so the flat part of your foot will contact the club, rather than the toe area.

In two-count and some other patterns, you can just return an incoming pass with a full-monte kick. Step, or maybe even jump back, so you’ll be sufficiently behind the incoming pass to kick it properly. Make your move at the last possible split second, otherwise you’ll telegraph to your partner that you’re moving, and the partner is likely to ‘help’ you by passing longer and farther to your left.


Reverse Monte

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The reverse monte kick is like the full monte kick except instead of kicking in front of your body, you bend your right knee, and kick from behind your body, so the bottom of your right foot (with your toe pointing down) reaches behind the left side of your body to make the kick pass.

If in four-count, you’ll want to experiment with the spin of the self-throw to get the kick to engage the club at the right time. Let the self-throw drop very close to your body. Turn your body a bit to the right as you make the kick. If the kicks go too much to your partner’s centerline, turn your body even further to the right before you kick.


Crotch Catch

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Catch an incoming pass between your thighs by suddenly jumping up and to your left. Before doing this, take a split-second to analyze the pass. If it is too high, spun badly, or has other problems, abandon your plan, because at best you’ll make a mess, and at worst, you’ll hurt something you don’t want to hurt.

Once you have made the catch, you can loosen your grip a bit and the club will fall to the floor. You can move your left foot in front as it is falling, causing the club to align perfectly on your right foot for a kick-up.


Combinations

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You now have the basics. These can and probably should be
put together in any and every combination you can think of.
Charlie Brown, G.W. Moss, Bob Vandegrift, David Kha, and Jordan Saturen all do
fantastic combination passes. Here are some possibilities:


Alternating Tomahawks

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This ia a great show trick, graphic and easy to do reliably.
You throw a tomahawk at the same time your partner throws a
regular pass. The next pass alternates, you throw a regular
pass and your partner throws the tomahawk. Continue for a while. If you both are good at shoulder throws, you can substitute these for the regular
throws.


Three-Three-Ten

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Three-three-ten is an old show standard. It is three cycles of six-count, three cycles of four-count, and ten cycles of two-count. It has evolved to a specific routine over time, which is great, because everyone knows what to do and knows what everyone else is going to do.

This is often used by two jugglers in a show when they want something reliable, something that impresses the crowd, and something that runs for a reasonable length of time. It is especially useful for two jugglers who have not worked out a show together, being something that they can do the first time together, since they have probably done it with a thousand other jugglers in the past.

It starts with a slow start. The only part that is not totally standardized is the end, and you’ll notice that when you see passers end kind of irregular or clunky. One juggler may just grab his clubs and stop after the tenth two-count pass, while the other may throw a double-spin self throw, and then stop.

I’d like to propose that we, the readers of this very website, help to standardize the ending by deciding that directly after the tenth two-count pass, we’ll throw a right to left self double, then stop. This is a rather nice-looking coordinated ending.

Even with an experienced partner, audibly counting will help keep the routine on track. Counting actually enhances the audience’s experience of three-three-ten. When your author has done the routine, he usually just says “Faster!” immediately after the third six-count pass, then “Real fast!” after the third four-count pass, then
counts out the ten two-count passes.

Approximately thirteen quadrillion times, entertainers have used three-three-ten to knock a cigarette or carrot out of a volunteer’s mouth. In this variation, they hit the object on the fourth or fifth pass, then they usually stop, not completing all ten two-count passes. In another version, while counting the passes out loud, they wait until the tenth two-count pass to attempt hitting the object, and if they don’t get it, they say “ten” on the eleventh pass, “ten” on the twelth pass, and so on, until they hit the object, then they stop passing. Even though it is a tired old routine, it still impresses audiences, and is easy and reliable to perform.

Cycle

A cycle is the time, or the throws, between one pass and the next. So, in four-count, considering both hands, there are four throws per juggler per cycle.


Four Way Tomahawks

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In two-count, throw a regular tomahawk from your right hand. Then throw a French chop from your right hand. Then throw another regular tomahawk from your right hand. Finally, throw a shoulder throw from your right hand. Repeat the whole sequence until done. If you and your catcher can do this, then you can experiment with synchronous and asynchronous combinations of both doing it at the same time.


Alternating Kicks

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This is a two-count trick. Hold one club low and horizontal with your
left hand and kick pass it along the water plane with your right foot. Then throw
a regular pass. Set another left club and now kick pass it
with your left foot. Etc. If you speed this up, ie. every
pass is a kick, it doesn’t look as good, you will have a
club in your right hand that does not move. (You can
continuous flourish this idle right hand club.)

Some passers use their right hand to set the clubs and
therefore in continuous mode, there is not a still club in
the right hand.

The version your author has been using lately is to kick the first pass with the right foot. Then bash pass the next club, using the right club as the basher, and of course the left club as the bashee. Then a kick pass from the left foot, then another bash. Repeat this pattern for as long as you can keep it together.


Balance Kick

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Set a club in a balance. Let it fall off in the face plane, but instead of
hitting the ground, you will kick it to your partner. In
order to do this well, the club should be horizontal as you
kick it. Start the fall by moving the club held in your
right hand suddenly to the left. If you watch the club fall,
you will be able to see your foot contact the club in the
center, which is important to get a non-spinning, catchable
pass.

A more precise variation is to let it fall forward in the hacksaw plane, and as the bottom of the club is facing the floor, kick it to your partner.


Benji’s Series

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Millions of jugglers do this series, but I have never seen
anyone do it better than Benji Marantz. In every others,
after any pass, do three chops (solo juggling style “chops”) in a row, then another
pass. Now do three single-spin back-crosses and then a pass.
Repeat.

If you are interested in a further step, try adding
three Alberts after the second part, to make this a three
part series.

Or you might try a repeating series consisting of three chops followed by a tomahawk or shoulder throw.


Big-Little Arm Circles

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In four-count, using multiplex or demultiplex, make a big
arm circle in the hacksaw plane, then a swing from the knob and finally a
shoulder throw all in a smooth motion. This will stretch
your available right hand time to the max.


Circle Bashes

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In this four-count hacksaw plane trick, you start with two clubs held in the right hand and bash a left to your partner. As you catch
the incoming pass in your left hand (as usual) do two
backward big arm circles with the two clubs still in your
right hand. These will appear as counter-clockwise to someone
viewing from your right. Set the left and bash pass it, then
repeat the two big arm circles. Etc. With practice you can
get the speed of the circles just right to have the basheer
clubs in place to hit the bashee at the right time. Try to
hit the bashee softly to get an accurate pass every time. In fact, they are really pushes more than bashes.
The circles should be as smooth as possible. I mean, don’t
stop after every bash. A good way to end this series is to
do two final big arm circles and then release one of the
multiplexed clubs as a pass instead of bashing a left club.


Double Crotch Bash

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This trick is done like a regular Crotch Bash except you
place two clubs between your legs instead of just one. When
you hit the two clubs, only one will fly out to your partner
and the other tends to stay put. At the time of the next
pass, you bash out the remaining club. Practice will be
required to understand how to place the two clubs exactly
properly for this effect to work. The general idea is that the lower club is about an inch (2.5 cm) farther back than the top club.


Double Triple Shoulder Throw

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In four-count: Throw a double left to left pass to your
partner. Then throw a right to left triple to yourself.
Reach over with your right hand and grab the incoming pass.
It will be caught upside down. Flourish, and throw it back
to your partner. If possible, the pass can be a shoulder
throw preceeded by a flourish. If you have trouble with this trick, it may be
because you are trying to get everything in the air too
quickly. There is a little hesitation time between the
double-spin pass and the triple self throw. Also make sure
the triple is sort of high, called float.

In two-count: Give your partner a double-spin pass from left to
left. Follow this with a right to left triple-spin pass.
Now, reach over, catch, flourish and shoulder pass the
incoming pass. Or, do the double triple pass, reach over
catch and flourish, but hold the right club. Instead of
passing it, pass the left double and now the right as a
triple and repeat the trick.


Fake Head Bash

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In four-count, take advantage of the loud snap of a good
multiplex catch while pretending to hit your head with your
right club. Actually, the hit can be real, but not very
hard. Well, it can be hard. That’s your choice. Try to get the multiplex catch to occur at the exact time you hit your head. If you move your left hand forward
at the time of the catch, the snap will be louder. For theatrics, you might look dazed and shake your head for a moment.


Fish Flops

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After a multiplex in every others, make the right hand club
describe the flip flop pattern of a fish swimming in the face plane before you
pass it.


Two-Up Flowers

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In four-count, after a pass, throw your left and right
clubs at the same time, double spun, but outside to
yourself. In other words, transverse in the face plane. Then pass the left one
double spun to you partner. This is like “one up, two up”
but you do it with the clubs spinning transverse to make it
more graphic. If you want to go a step further, a trick that
looks quite different but is similar can be tried. This is
cross over flowers. The only difference is that the clubs
are thrown to cross over to the opposite hands. They usually
crash into each other if you don’t make a specific plan to
throw one slightly in front, and the other behind.


Froggie Catch Double Flourish

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Four-count: Froggie catch and hold the incoming pass (with
your left hand). Throw your partner a triple-spin pass. Catch the next
right club upside down, ready to flourish. Now, flourish
both clubs simultaneously. Resume the regular pattern or repeat
the trick.

Two-count: Throw a left to left double-spin pass. Froggie
catch. Throw a right to left triple pass. Reach over with
your right hand and catch the next incoming pass. Flourish
both clubs simultaneously and then pass in regular manner.
This is a difficult trick.


Froggie Catch Double Flourish Cross-Overs

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This trick is as the name might imply, somewhat
difficult to do. Read about the Froggie Catch, Double
Flourish above and practice it. Read about the Crossover Flowers
and practice that using double-spins. Now, in four-count, all
you have to do is put the two tricks together. So, the
Crossover Flowers, the ones that will cross in front of your
face, are the same two clubs that are flourished. As soon as
you flourish them, as per the first trick, you throw them
double spun to yourself, but to opposite hands.

I do this simple little trick with a twist. Instead of
a straight up triple-spin pass to start the combination, I
use a back-cross triple in the face plane. Sometimes it works.


Homicide

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Warn your catcher! In two-count, multiplex catch two in your
left hand. Reach over and catch another pass in your right
hand, but don’t throw it. Instead, kick the two clubs from
your left hand to your partner. (The set is regular, no need
to hold them in a special manner.) The clubs and your foot
should accelerate together. Be gentle, don’t really kill your
partner. Kick the two clubs almost as high as a double-spin
in order to give your catcher time to sort out how to grab
them both. Advanced (and perhaps crazy) catchers only should
be offered this, others are likely to get injured. If you
kick a little bit toward the fat end of the clubs, they will
spin one turn parallel as they reach the catcher. This is
harder to catch, but looks great.


Ken Flips

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Here is a four-count trick that is named after the
smoothest performer of it, Ken Martin, aka Mr. Miraculous. While passing in
four-count, set a club on another club as in the trick,
balance Bash. Immediately flip it over one-half turn in the hacksaw plane and
catch it in another balance. As soon as this second balance
is established, it will be time to pass. Generally the pass
is done by pushing the club off to your partner with the
club it is balanced on. You can also bash it off with the
right club. Other options exist (of course!) such as sending
it straight up and passing the club it was balanced on
instead, or trying to squeeze in an third half-turn before
you pass it. After this third half-turn, you will not have
time to really balance it again. Just pass it right away by
hitting it with the club it was to land on.


Mr. Miraculous’ Trick

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This trick was inspired by Mr. Miraculous. He saw the parts,
and suggested putting them together.

You start with a left hand multiplex catch while doing
two small forward knob swings and a foot interruption bash.
Pass the bashee under your leg and hand over the multiplexed
clubs to your right hand. Immediately throw these right hand
clubs to yourself straight up as double-spins, and then
throw a double spun left to left pass. Then catch the
incoming pass in your left hand. Now you catch the two
multiplex self throws, one in each hand. Set the right one
in a head spin while just catching the left club. The last
part of the trick is to grab the head spin after one
revolution with your left hand and set it vertically on your
head. Before it falls off, take it off with your right hand
held upside down (as if you were going to flourish it, sort
of a froggie catch) and pass it to your partner as a tomahawk,
but thrown with your hand inverted (“inverted tomahawk,” also known as “Tim chops”).

If you do not understand this trick fully, that’s ok,
just invent something similar to what I am attempting to
describe here and you will probably have something equal or
better, anyway.


One-High Pickup

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This is a classy way to pick up in two-count, probably also
the easiest way to pick up once you understand it. The pass
to your partner immediately following a drop should be very
high, perhaps three or four spins, thrown from your left or
right hand, it doesn’t matter, but typically to be caught in your partner’s left hand. Your partner will of course
throw you a single-spin pass, but then will wait for this
high throw to come down before throwing any more passes.
During this break, you can go get the fallen club. Wait for
your partner to make the catch of that high throw, if you
are ready before it comes down. Then resume passing in the
usual manner. This pick up looks better than many others,
because the crowd tends to watch the high pass, and
therefore will not see you messing with the club on the
floor.


Pirouettes

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These fit anywhere, anytime, if you are fast enough. Or you
can make time with multiplex, high throws, etc. If you are
really good, think of a pirouette not as a trick in itself,
but as a part of combinations, or multi-part passing tricks.

A rather common variation is to do a somewhat slow clockwise turn (as seen from above), and catch an incoming pass behind your back. Continue the turn after you catch it, resulting in a smooth full pirouette during which you have caught a club. To enhance this effect, you can jump as you make the catch. Unless the pass was extraordinarily high, the jump is just for visual effect.

One of my favorites in four-count is a double-pirouette. You need to be fast, and you’ll probably want to keep your arms in close to your body, so you’re not fighting inertia. The general idea is as soon as you multiplex catch the incoming club in your left hand – so you’ll be holding two clubs in your left hand, and one in your right, start the turn. As I come out, I extend my right arm, and throw a vertical flat pass in the hacksaw plane, which is far more graphic than just throwing an ordinary pass, plus, it actually utilizes some of the momentum from the turn. If you’re a bit late coming around, you can throw this flat brutally fast, as long as your catcher is experienced.

One time, playing in the crowded gym at a juggling convention, I finished my double pirouette a bit late and figured I should really chuck the flat, to make up for the lateness. Only problem was, I only turned about 1-7/8 turns. The club I threw took out about six people’s juggling patterns across the gym. It’s stuff like that which people remember me for.


Return Bash

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In two-count, hold a right club that should have been a pass,
bring it to your left side and hit the incoming pass like a
tennis backhand. Swing up a little bit. This will give the
pass some float. Try to see the rotation of the incoming
pass, and bash it at just the right moment. In four-count,
you can multiplex the “should have been the pass” club into your
right hand and bash the incoming with both clubs in your right hand. You’ll find using two clubs as bashers is more accurate than one.


Baseball Bash

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Multiplex three clubs into both hands, held like a baseball
bat and hit the pass with these. This is a good place to
sneak in a pirouette for more effect. Pirouettes in either direction look good with the “Baseball Bash.” Remember that you’re aiming for your catcher’s left hand, not the midline.


Sixteen Turns

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One of my favorite self bashes is a four-count
trick. After a pass, toss a right to left self double, then
set and bash the left club with the right. Hit it at the
bottom so it spins a million turns in the air in the face plane before you re-
catch it in your right hand. Actually, it spins sixteen turns. No, actually, it spins an indeterminate bunch of turns. You just stick your hand out to catch it. Either the bottom or handle will hit your hand. Close your hand, and you’ve caught it. More often than not, you get the handle, because the handle sticks out further from the axis of the spin than the bottom.
It is important to keep the spinning club outside so that it doesn’t foul your pattern. Your next pass will occur before or after catching the
bashee, depending on how high it went.

I used to use a solo version of “sixteen turns” as part of my crowd-gathering routine for street performing. I’d have a few people in front of me, who I would engage with casual conversation. I’d place a club vertically in a balance on a club held in my right hand and hold it for quite a while. I’d mostly be watching the top of the balanced club, but would glance briefly at my initial few audience members, to make them feel very acknowledged. I’d tell them that I’m going to try a trick for their amusement. I’d tell them that this is something I sometimes do before the show, and their reward for being there so early is to see this “sixteen turn” trick that those arriving later won’t get to see. I’d then tell them, “I’m going to let the balanced club fall off the other, but before it hits the ground, I’m going to bash it into the air, it’s going to spin sixteen turns. I’m going to catch it, and keep juggling.” While still holding the balance, and before actually doing the trick, I’d mess around a bit as the crowd continued to build. For instance, I might say, “But you don’t really want to see that, do you?” At which point, I’d drop all three clubs to the ground. Then I’d pick them up, setting a vertical balance again. I might also tell them, “This usually takes three times to get it right.” Of course, I’d pretty much always nail it on the first try, but that gave me some room to screw it up without losing the crowd, should it be necessary. Finally, I’d do the trick. Sometimes it would spin ten turns, other times, it might spin twelve revolutions. I’d have no idea how many times it actually turned, but the crowd never complained that they didn’t get their full sixteen turns.


Stomach Throw

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It would be hard to find someone who will refer to this one
as a technical trick, but it is: After a pass in every
others, put a horizontal club with your right hand against
your stomach and crouch down, to hold the club with your
stomach. Actually it is trapped horizontally between your upper thighs
and your chest. When it is time to pass, stand up and the
club will fall flat and horizontally to your feet. Just step back a little and
kick pass it.

If possible, you might rather have it roll down your legs to your feet, although with this version, it is difficult to keep the club in the horizontal plane.


Multipass

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This is a fascinating but dangerous two-count trick. Warn your
catcher first. Put a club between your legs, and then
transverse pass a club from each hand at the same time in the face plane. They
will be double-spin throws. They should cross in mid-air
(optional) and arrive cleanly to your partner. This is the
hard part. After partner catches these, crotch bash the club
between your legs. If the passes are to cross, you’ll want to decide in advance which one goes slightly in front of the other. If you are a right-hander, you’ll want to focus on sending off a clean double-spin left-to-left pass.


Thirds In Others

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In every others (four-count), after a pass, juggle your self throws real
fast so you can get two extra throws in before you have to
pass again, so you will have done a cycle of thirds (six-count) while your partner continues to do four-count. You can repeat this six-count variation for as many cycles as you wish.

The obvious variation is to squeeze four-count into two-count in the same way.


Tomato Brain

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In two-count, throw a left double to your partner’s left and
then set your left club onto the right-hand club in a vertical
balance. For your next pass, bash it off with your left club. Throw another left
to left double and hold the right-hand club as if you are
going to balance another club on it. Hold the left club as
if you were going to set it in another end balance on the
right club, but move it slightly further to your right. Let
this left club drop to your right foot, which will kick-pass
it to your surprised partner.


Tom Flourishes

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This one gets a laugh. In four-count, throw your partner a
triple-spin pass and pretend to flourish the clubs in each
hand simultaneously. This is not a real flourish, merely
shake the clubs back and forth, then resume passing. This
one was invented by one of the Renegades, Tom Kidwell.

In two-count, you can throw continuous left-to-left double-spin passes, while Tom flourishing as long as you wish in your right hand.


Two Circle Swings

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Buy right hand time with multiplex, demultiplex, or use a
left-to-left double-spin pass if you are in two-count. Let the right hand
club slip down to the knob and swing it two turns in the hacksaw plane with your
wrist before passing it. The smoothest way is to swing it
is clockwise as seen be someone standing to your right, and
then shoulder pass it.


Two Swing Kick Interruption

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Do two swings as above, and then interrupt the motion of the
club by putting your right foot in the way. You should bend
up your leg at the knee, so that the fat part of the club
will smash into the bottom of the arch of your foot. The
club will then spin backward if you let it. Keep your leg up
and pass the club under your leg. All of this happens in the hacksaw plane.

A weird Jeff trick is a double interruption. After only
one swing, I do an interruption as described above, but then
as the club swings backward, I interrupt again with my left
foot this time, causing the club to spin in the original
direction. Then I shoulder pass it.

Yet another variation is a triple interruption. After one swing, I do an interruption as described above, but then
as the club swings backward, I interrupt again with my left
foot, causing the club to spin in the original
direction. Then I interrupt it again with my right foot, and finally pass it under my leg.


Two Behind The Back

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After a pass in others, you can put two clubs into your
right hand and multiplex throw them to yourself, behind your back in the face plane. I usually use a fast, low double-spin. You can also do
this straight up, under your leg, (either leg), over the top, etc. For over the top, put the inside club slightly ahead of the outside club. In mid-air, they’ll separate into two pretty side-by-side parallel spins.


Continuous Flourishes

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In two-count, throw a left-to-left double-spin pass, and froggie catch the next incoming pass. Flourish it, and throw it as a left-to-left double-spin pass, while simultaneously reaching over to your left with your right hand and froggie catch the next incoming pass. Flourish that right hand club, and throw it to your partner as a right-to-left double-spin pass. Then froggie catch the next left club, and repeat, so that you are continuously catching a club in each hand, and flourishing it before sending it back. Once you start, there are no self-throws in this pattern.


Waterfalls

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In four-count, ditch a club by putting it on the floor,
under your foot, or set up for a crotch bash. In between
subsequent passes, you may sort of let one club fall over
the top of the other in the hacksaw plane as you are holding them. You can also
roll a club up over, from under the other club. I usually
hold the left club out in front of me horizontally and roll
the right club over it. I often do the move and variations
several times before resuming with all six clubs.


Flopovers

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Four-count: You can ditch a club, or throw a right-to-left double-spin self throw to buy time. Hold the left club horizontally and high in front of your body, a little toward your right side. Throw a tomahawk pass over the club, or drop, or sort of flop, the right club over the horizontal left club in the hacksaw plane, catch it as it falls, then pass it, or throw it as a triple-spin right to left self throw (a steal).

Two-count: Just hold any left club up high and horizontally in front of you as you tomahawk pass the right club over it.

There is an equal and opposite maneuver which mixes well with flop-overs in series: While holding the left club horizontally, this time a little lower, roll the right club over it in the hacksaw plane, catch it, then pass it any way you’d like. The club may, or may not touch the horizontal club – your choice.


Ditch Kick-Up

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Instead of a pass, bring a club behind your legs, and drop it between your legs so it ends up on your foot, with the bottom facing forward, and the handle, near the knob, resting against your lower shin, ready to kick up. This can be a kick-up to yourself or as a pass.


Double Kick-Up

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Using something like the Ditch Kick-Up, described above, have a club resting on your foot ready to kick-up. Kick it less high than you normally would, so it falls back to your foot, then kick it up again, at which point you can pass it, or whatever you want to do with it.

A variation is to kick it up the first time in the normal way, but instead of grabbing it with your hand, kick-pass it to your partner.

Another variation, is to kick-pass it with your other foot.

Yet another variation is to kick it up high enough to bounce off either knee as a pass or self throw.


Multiplex Kick-Up

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Put two clubs on your foot the way you would normally put one for a kick-up. The handle of the inside club should be under the handle of the outside club. You can do the kick-up in the normal way, and both clubs will come up, spinning parallel, and you can catch one in each hand.


Triple Balance

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This is probably a four-count trick, since you probably won’t find the time to do it in two-count, three-count, pairs, etc.

1. After any pass, set the left club on the right club. The right club is held horizontally with the bottom pointing forward. The left club is put on the right club horizontally at a ninety degree angle, with the knob pointing to your left, and the bottom to your right. The middle of the left club, now called the “second club,” is over the area where the handle of the right club joins the body, or just a bit closer to your hand. In order to maintain this “balance” you need to extend the thumb and forefinger of your right hand, so three fingers are wrapped around the handle of the first club, but your thumb and forefinger are supporting the second club.

This could be a trick in itself. For your next pass, you could push off the second (top) club to your catcher. But no, this has to be more complicated.

2. Place the next club that comes to your right hand, which we’ll call the “third” club, vertically on the second club. The knob of this third club will be parked on the approximate middle of the second club, and you’ll want to focus your attention on the “bottom” (now the top) of this third club, maintaining it a balance.



Triple balance. Notice how the thumb and index finger are extended under the second club.

3. Optionally, if your partner continues to pass, which he may not do, since you have three clubs and are not passing, you can continue to pass as long as you want by catching passes in your left hand, and sending them back as left-to-left double-spin passes.

4. When you are ready, suddenly lift the first club up, so the other two rise into the air where you can then catch them and continue juggling or passing.

An interesting option that looks more precarious is to use your stomach (Not your stomach actually. That would be gross, and you’d probably get an infection. Use your belly.), to slide the second club, as soon as you set it, a couple of inches (perhaps 6 cm) farther away from your body. Normally, this club would fall off, but instead, at the same time as you have pushed it forward, you set the knob of the third club onto the knob of the second, so you have a stable, balanced arrangement.



Triple offset balance.


Pseudo-Tomahawks

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In four-count, you can demultiplex to get enough time, or in two-count, you can throw a left-to-left double-spin pass.

As soon as you can get some right-hand time, hold the club up as if you were going to throw a tomahawk pass. Since you are early, bend your wrist as if you were going to throw, but instead, hang onto the club, and bring your wrist back. Then throw your tomahawk. The first part is the “pseudo” part.

Variations include holding the club in Tim Chop fashion, and finishing with a shoulder throw.


Park Low

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In four-count, catch a second club in your left hand (multiplex catch) and begin a slow counter-clockwise pirouette as seen from the top, while holding the right club out as if it were a trophy, but hold it horizontally. As you turn around, lower the right club almost to the ground, then bring it back up before you pass it. Pass it with the normal spin. This is very untechnical, but looks goofy enough to get a laugh.


Roundhouse Flats

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Hold a club in your right hand vertically, with the knob end down. Bring your arm around in a big half-circle on the hacksaw plane and let the club go when your arm is behind you. Throw the club high and flat. You can use this anywhere you’d throw a normal triple-spin pass, but you need to set it up a bit early in order to have time for the roundhouse effect.


Tuck Tuck Goose

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In four-count, as you are getting ready to catch an incoming pass, tuck the club in your right hand along the left side of your neck. The knob will be facing forward, and the bottom facing behind you. Raise your shoulder, and possibly tip your head to trap the club.

As soon as you catch the pass, tuck it along right side of your neck, trapping it with your other shoulder. Grab the remaining club in your right hand across the access of spin, and place it on your head. At the same time, give the club a little spin, just as you would for an ordinary headspin. As soon as the club spins one revolution, since time will be very limited at this point, push the club on your head off as a flat pass to your catcher. Take the two tucked clubs out, and resume passing as normal.


Continuous Big Back Circles

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Invented by G. W. Moss, this is a two-count trick that looks especially nice to the audience, especially if they are seeing your right-hand side.

Start throwing left-to-left double-spin passes. This entirely frees up your right hand. Start circling the club you are holding in your right hand around in big backward circles on the hacksaw plane. As seen from your right, these circles will be counter-clockwise. You should make one circle for each pass, so it looks somehow as if your big circles are launching each pass, even though the passes and circles are entirely independent. Keep doing it until hell freezes over, or until you lose interest.


Steam Shovel

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In four-count, put two clubs into your right hand. Take the next incoming pass and place it on top of the two clubs with the knob facing toward you. Lower the angle of your right hand, then raise it fairly quickly. This will cause the club on top to slide off as a pass to your partner.



The grip for the steamshovel.


French Wiggle

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Buy some right hand time with multiplex or demultiplex in four-count, or continuous left-to-left double-spin passes in two-count or other patterns.

Holding the club that’s in your right hand in an inverted tomahawk grip, bring your arm behind your head, so the club is situated near the left side of your face. Wiggle your the club back and forth. Keep doing it until you are done, then throw the club as an inverted tomahawk from where it is, or bring it back, and resume passing in the normal way.


Triple High Kick

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Anytime you can throw a triple-spin pass, you can kick one to the same height instead. If you kick near the middle of the club, it will stay flat, and look quite nice as it floats back down to the catcher.

Be careful, there is a very good chance that if you don’t kick it right, instead of going up to triple height, it will go straight at your catcher’s face, with the same velocity.


Kick, Reverse Knob Spin

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This is mostly a four-count trick. While multiplexing or demultiplexing in your left hand, set a club vertically so you are holding it by the knob, and just the first part of the handle, and the bottom is resting on the ground in front of your right foot. Just before the normal time to pass, kick with your toe near the bottom of the club, while holding the knob in a ball-and-socket grip. The club will spin around backward in the hacksaw plane, at which point you can release it as a pass.

A simpler version is just to kick-pass it from that position. You can also continue the spin for two, three, or more revolutions, and pass instead from your left hand.

If you are more confident kicking with your left foot, go ahead. It’s all the same.


Free Kick

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Set a club vertically on the ground in front of your right foot, so for a moment the club is balanced on its bottom. In most cases, the club won’t stay like that for long. As soon as the club is set, back away from it a little bit, and then go ahead and gently kick pass it to your partner before it tips over.


Transverse Four

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In two-count, gather two clubs in your right hand, with the handle of the inside club under the outside club, and the inside club a few inches (eight cm or so) in front of the other. Before you throw that multiplex pass, gather two more clubs in your left hand the same way. The second left-hand catch may be difficult until you get used to getting that inside handle under the other, and the inside club forward of the outside club. Throw the two clubs in your right hand as a multiplex double-spin transverse (face plane) pass. Wait until the catcher absorbs those, then throw the other two from your left hand in the same way. When you’re good, the pairs of clubs separate in mid-air with parallel spins to be caught one in each catcher’s hand.


The Cowboy Throw

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While multiplexing, demultiplexing or throwing left-to-left double-spin passes from your left hand, hold the right club by the very knob, and spin it in water plane over your head for two revolutions. At the end of the last revolution, still tugging it by the knob, bring it into hacksaw plane and throw it as a tomahawk.


Body Passes

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In any count, instead of catching a club with your left hand, you can catch it under your arm, often called an “elbow catch,” or “body catch.” Then, you can raise your arm quickly, and if it works out as you’d like, it becomes a single-spin pass back to your partner.

In four-count, you can do a left-side body catch, while holding a club in each hand. Then, when it is time to pass, body pass that with a single spin, diagonally back to your partner’s left hand. Now, quickly move to your left, and when the next pass comes, catch it with a right side body catch, and after a moment’s pause to fit the proper timing, body pass it back to your catcher’s right hand. You can now move back to your right, and repeat the body passes for as long as you like.

One thing that might be important: Many good catchers will follow you if you telegraph your first quick move to the left. You will have lined yourself up to catch on the right side of your body, but your passer, not knowing your plan, will pass it more outside, to your new left position. To avoid telegraphing, make the move suddenly, at the last possible moment.

You can do the same thing in two-count, but you might want some regular passes between each body catch.

You can do a self body catch by starting with a shoulder throw. Typically, you might throw left-to-left double-spin passes if in two-count, or demultiplex if in four-count, then throw a right-hand shoulder throw. But, instead of that shoulder throw being a pass, it goes almost straight up, with one or two spins – your choice. Catch it yourself as a right-side body catch. Then you can do some other things, such as letting the club slide forward while you stoop forward, catching the sliding club at the last second by the knob. (This makes a great solo or passing finish, by the way.) Or, you can body throw it up to yourself, and body catch it again. I’m sure you can think of other ways to utilize body passes as well.


Knee Down Tomahawkss

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In four-count, kneel down on one knee while throwing a tomahawk pass. The next right hand self throw is a double-spin self tomahawk, overhead. The next pass is another tomahawk, and the next right self-throw is a self tomahawk again. Repeat this pattern for a while, then as you stand up, your pass can be a shoulder throw, just to make the routine look smooth and complete.

If you are a really good thrower, in each cycle, you might throw a tomahawk pass, followed by three self tomahawks, using both hands.


The Impossible Catch

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Pass a club in water plane with as much spin as you can. Assuming you are passing from your right hand, make it an outside spin, meaning clockwise as seen from above. The pass should be just a bit higher than single-spin height. This is particularly hard to catch because the spin is contrary to the grasp. The club wants to crawl out of the catcher’s hand.

The reverse spin, in other words counterclockwise as seen from the top, is easier to catch.

You can also throw these at triple-spin height, but those aren’t ‘impossible’ to catch. At triple-height, passes in water plane are called “helicopters.”


Shoulder Drops

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After any pass in four-count, or after a left-to-left double-spin pass to your partner in two-count, you can set the club held in your right hand on your right shoulder with the bottom facing to the back, and let it fall. As it slides over the back of your shoulder, grab it with your right hand behind your back. Bring it forward and do whatever you’re going to do next – a pass, a spin, a self-throw, whatever.

You can throw a triple-spin pass in four count, and drop both clubs over both shoulders.


Sliperoo

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Place a club on your head with your left hand so that it is horizontal, and the handle is facing forward. Almost immediately take it off with your right hand, so it doesn’t really have to balance. The audience will perceive this as having been balanced, and having stayed longer than it did.

In the next cycle do it again. Do it a few more times. Then, set a club almost the same way, but farther back on your head, so it slips off, behind your back. As it falls, reach behind, catch it, and then pass it in the usual way.


Two-Part Shoulder Passes

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While buying right hand time with left-to-left double-spin passes, multiplex or demultiplex, throw a shoulder throw from your right hand. This will be a self shoulder throw, so throw it without much forward trajectory, so it falls just in front of you. As it comes within reach, catch it near the knob, and then shoulder pass it in the normal way. One could repeat the self shoulder throws indefinitely.


Feed Tricks

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It is inevitable. Here you are passing six clubs with another artistic passer. You’re in the rhythm. Everything is going well. Few drops. You and the other passer are having a great time. Then someone comes up and wants to know if they can join you. How can you say “no?” So, sure, you let this other person into a classic three-person feed.

The standard three-person feed is two people facing one. The two are each doing four-count, in offset timing, and the one is doing two-count, giving alternating passes to the two four-count people.

If you are one of the two four-count passers, you can just do all your usual artistic stuff. If you get bored with that, or if the point is having a hard time, or if the rhythm just isn’t what it was, you can play with the point, expanding her catching ability.

Using NLP or whatever, you can read the point’s physiology, or just ask the point whether s/he wants to play with some exercises to increase the skill. Most people enjoy this sort of game, and all three passers can end up in fits of laughter.

One of my favorites is simultaneous arrivals. You can decide whether you’re going to warn the point or not – generally based on how good and safe a catcher this person is. Then, purposely throw a club out of time. In other words, suddenly throw a pass after two counts instead of four. Ideally, you will have been noticing where the other four-count passer’s throws go, and pass yours the same way with the same amount of spin, so your club very nearly comes to the exact same place. A very good catcher can eat this up, either catching both clubs in the left hand, or catching one in the normal way, while doing an elbow or body catch to absorb the other.

Once a point becomes good at catching these, it is great accident recovery, because out-of-time clubs are very common in feeds, and a point looks great upon making a recovery. One of the best recoveries is when the point has simultaneous arrivals, but one is too low, or too outside. The point catches the easy club, and at the same time, kicks the out-of-ZOC club back as a pass.

A slight variation, which a less-than-expert point might appreciate is slightly out-of-time passes. Not quite simultaneous arrivals, you throw every pass just a bit late, or a bit early, on purpose, to see how well the point can handle them.

Another fun game is high-low, in which you and the other four-count passer agree that you will throw high passes, and the other person will throw low – or vice versa. See how far you can stretch the point’s ZOC.

If your point hasn’t expired yet, you might flat-pass a bunch of two clubs, to be caught together in the point’s left hand. A good point will make a big show of absorbing these and returning them in proper timing, without breaking a sweat.

If your point isn’t such a great passer, you can mess around with right-to-right double-spin passes, or right-to-left triple-spin passes, or worse, high transverse passes.


Picking Up in a Feed

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People who are new to feeds finding picking up as the point is difficult. There are several ways to make it easier.

The first is to throw a triple-spin pass to each passer. Expect one more incoming pass, then while the triples are landing, you can pick up the errant club. If it is too far away to pick up easily, the triples don’t have to be triples. They can be four, five, or even more spins. It is important that they have the same height, otherwise, the passers facing you will come back out of time, and you’ll get near simultaneous arrivals.

Another way that works well is to do a toe-kick up instead of a pass. This works better on grass, if you are barefoot or have low-cut shoes, and are experienced in toe kick-ups.

What is probably the most common feed pickup is to maneuver so you’ll be able to pickup the club in your right hand. While doing so, start passing with your left hand. You can keep passing left-to-left as long as you need. Once you have recovered the club in your right hand, you can resume passing normally.


Feed Triples

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For a point, this is probably the easiest trick in �feeddom,� except for maybe tomahawks or right-to-right double passes. (But those aren’t really tricks, are they?) Throw a right-to-left triple-spin pass to one of the passers. In order not to get a simultaneous arrival, also throw a triple-spin pass to the other passer. You can continue these triples as long as you want, so long as you end with an even number of triple-spin passes. At the end, you’ll need to do a four-count cycle, so you don’t plague one of your guys with a two-count surprise when s/he was expecting a four-count.


Split Triples

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Put yourself at the point of a regular three-person
feed. You are passing to two people facing you who are doing
four-count. You are doing two-count, but every other of your
passes goes to one person and the alternate passes are going
to the other person.

At any time you are ready, quickly put two clubs
in your right hand (the club on the left as you hold them in
front of yourself will have its handle under the club on the
right) and throw them multiplexed together as a
triple-spin pass.

Aim the pair of clubs at a point between
the two people facing you. If you do it right, the clubs
will separate in the air and one will go to the
left hand of the catcher on your left, the other will go to the right hand of the catcher on your right.

What happens next can be amusing. You may get a simultaneous arrival. If you are expecting that, it is twice as easy to absorb as when you are not. The catchers may also try to fix the timing. If they both try to fix it, anything can happen, but you can deal with it, right?

Interestingly, if you try a more difficult pass, you can get better results. The pass is a multiplex back-cross triple. The advantage is that the clubs can separate more completely in mid-air, each going to a catcher’s left hand.

Getting the proper amount of separation is almost
automatic, but you will need some practice aiming to the
right place so that both people will be able to catch these
clubs without moving very much. If you do it inaccurately,
one catcher will have to reach about to the place where the
other person’s face was. I say was, because as long as the
clubs do separate in the air, if your placement is
not right, the one who’s face was in danger will have moved
out of the way in order to grab the other club.

You can tell the catchers one thing before starting
this trick if you don’t want to deal with simultaneous arrivals. They should be told to stop passing after catching the multiplex back-crosses, and just juggle self throws. This is because they will both catch the passes at
the same time, and then there would be confusion about who
passes to you when. As soon as possible make eye contact
with the person to your left as a signal to pass again, and
the person on the right will see the pass and know to resume
passing on the next beat.

With a bit of practice you can create a timing that
flows smoothly so the passing will not stop. For instance
the person on the right can pass as soon as the back-cross
triple is caught and the person on the left will do a self-throw before the next pass. It may be better for one
of the catchers to do a four-count cycle and the catcher next to
him to do a six-count cycle. This is slower, but the gap in timing
won’t be noticeable to the audience.


Continuous Feed Flourishes

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This would be just like Continuous Flourishes except that you are in an ordinary feed, alternating to two passers. This looks quite spectacular to other jugglers. But once you try it, you may find it’s not all that hard.


Crossing Tomahawks

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This is just like Two Hand Tomahawks but you are the point in a feed. There are two ways to do this. The stupid way is to pass the tomahawks from your right hand to the passer on your right, and the left ones go to the passer on your left. The ‘right’ way, the way that looks much better, is to reverse it, so your left tomahawks go to the passer on your right, and the rights to to the passer on your left.


Transverse Feed Multiplex

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At any time, gather two clubs in your right hand for a multiplex pass. The handle of the inside club be under the handle of the outside, otherwise they will foul each other in mid-air. The outside club should be an inch or so (2.5 cm) in front of the other so they’ll separate nicely when thrown. Throw these from outside as double-spin transverse passes in the face plane. Ideally, each passer will catch a club in their left hand, and will pass back to you in some sort of staggered timing. They may throw simultaneously, so be ready for a simultaneous catch.

If you’re making a mess, try aiming only for the left catcher’s left hand. If that doesn’t work, think only about the right catcher’s left hand. If that doesn’t work – if the problem is that you’re not getting enough separation, throw the multiplex with triple-spins.

You can also do this as a behind the back throw. You can also throw the multiplex from your left hand. If your catchers are particularly wise, you can throw a multiplex transverse pair from your left hand, followed by another pair from your right.


Transverse Crazies

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Throw a double-spin pass in the face plane (transverse) from your left hand to the right-hand of the passer on your left. Throw an early left-to-right transverse double to the left hand of the passer on your right. Repeat this pattern until someone complains.


Simultaneous Start

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As the point, if you are holding three clubs, you can throw a single-spin pass to one passer, and at the same time, a triple-spin to the other. The one who gets the single-spin will start first, and all will commence as it should. You can throw one club from each hand, deciding which hand will throw a more reliable triple. Better yet, cross over. From your left hand, you throw a single-spin pass to the passer on your right, and from your right hand, you throw the triple to the passer on your left.

Or throw a multiplex pass straight up which splits in mid air, with one club going to the left hand of the catcher on your left, and the other going to the right hand of the catcher on your right. To make this work, one club should be held far forward of the other in your hand, and you should step forward as you make the throw. This version expects a certain amount of skill from your catchers.

If you have four clubs, throw a single-spin pass to the catcher with two clubs, and at the same time, a triple to the catcher with three clubs.

If you have five clubs, throw a single-spin pass to either catcher, and a concurrent triple to the other.


Other Counts

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There are of course patterns other than four-count
and two-count, and many of the tricks described in this website can be done just fine in these other patterns.

If you opt to use one of these other patterns,
you will put your catcher at a disadvantage unless your catcher
is practiced in the same pattern. This means the freedom of
expression is lost if you are not both proficient in the
pattern, because you will be working too hard just
maintaining to do artistic things. But with the required
practice there are some fantastic ideas exclusively
available in these other patterns.

Many of us learned six-count first. It gives you lots of
extra time to perform complicated combinations of self
throws, such as a series of Alberts or it gives you time to do a single item repeatedly. I once saw a very impressive six-count passing routine containing things that were probably impossible in four-count.

Most left hand passers are at a
slight disadvantage in right hand passing. If you were to switch to
left hand passing, the right hand passer would be at a
disadvantage. Artistically, there is no advantage of left
hand passing, except to impress other jugglers with your
ambidexterity. But you can immediately equalize the
differences between righties and south-paws by doing right-
and-left passing. There are three basic forms being
pioneered primarily in Boston and Hawaii: pairs, one-count,
and three-count. These patterns
are all old ones, but just now, people are starting to do
more with them.

Three-count is like four-count, but right and
left, each subsequent pass coming one self-throw early
compared to four-count. In other words, there are two self-throws between each pass, instead of three, resulting in alternating passes from each hand. It offers interesting variations such as straight-across tomahawks, flats and shoulder throws from each hand, and cross-over doubles.

One-count is every throw a pass, both hands alternating.
In order to make it work without collisions, it is best to learn to throw each club from low and inside to be caught high and outside.


Pairs

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Pairs is one-count, but both hands passing,
simultaneously. In pairs, generally the clubs don’t cross.

Pairs may become a new fad
among club passers. Watch Graham Ellis, the founder of the Hawaiian
Vaudeville Convention and Belly Acres (juggler’s land on the Big Island of Hawaii), to see the excellence in pairs passing.

Some ideas for pairs: simultaneous double shoulder
throws, passes that cross in mid-air like “crossover flowers”, double
transverse passes, double tomahawks, and double simultaneous double-spin steals. You can also do a different throw from each
hand, but at the same time. Your double steals can also be
three or four spins high, because your partner has only two
clubs and will probably wait for you to pass again before
passing to you. How about simultaneous, triple-spin steal,
while double simultaneous flourishes of the clubs you are
holding?


Mixed Counts

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I was introduced to mixed counts by Frank Olivier, who when I asked, “Two-count or four?” said something like, “Whatever.” Then we started to pass clubs in no particular count. You can do it to, with any experienced partner. All you do is start in any pattern. It might be four-count, or three-count, or pairs, and either passer at any time might change the count to something else. The change may be triggered with a high throw, such as a triple, and it might evolve slowly, such as from one-count to pairs. At first it was hard to read what he was going to do, but it did’t take long to catch on, at least a little bit. It is a lot like absorbing simultaneous arrivals. Or maybe more like absorbing a two-count in a what’s supposed to be a four-count pattern. Sometimes you find yourself multiplex catching a lot just to stay in the game. And, you’re generally a little busy for really artistic stuff, but it is fun. Who cares what it looks like?

Out of practicing with mixed count, your author came up with the ability to just start passing. You may think you have to come to an agreement with a partner as to whether you are going to do two-count, four-count, or something else before you can begin passing. But, as it turns out, you don’t. With awareness, you can just start. I think I generally make an assumption like, “This guy is a fast, advanced passer, so he’ll probably start with two-count,” or “She likes artistic four-count,” or “last time with her, we did pairs.” Then, as the passing starts, I kind of hang back a bit with the first pass if I’m expecting two-count, but the other passer is expecting four-count, or I may multiplex the first catch if I was expecting four-count but got two-count. With very little practice, you’ll get the hang of it, and it seems remarkably natural. Interestingly, this blows the minds of beginning and intermediate passers. They still think communication is necessary. So now I say what Frank said: “Whatever.”


Club Ballet

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Club Ballet is a style of two-count passing developed
on the west coast of the United States. If you get a chance to see Tom
Kidwell and Josh Anzelmo of the Renegades in action, you
will know how much fun club ballet is. The basic idea is to
throw as much variety as fast as you can from both hands to your catcher’s both
hands. The rules are to keep every pass in the ZOC
(consider all four dimensions) and “if you can touch it, you
can catch it”. Club ballet is generally based on two-count, but at times, that’s pretty hard to see among all that’s going on.

The major responsibility is on the catcher who must hold
the whole thing together. Typical passes include high flats,
mixed up with tomahawks, shoulder throws, bashes, multiplex passes and
kicks, both high and low. Anything is legitimate, such as
triple-spin passes followed by one cycle of every others.
Try to avoid redundancy at all costs.

If you get stuck for ideas, remember all three planes are at your disposal.

To make it as interesting as possible to the public, you can do a series of low passes, then the sudden high pass, or visa
versa.


Numbers Passing

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This website is supposed to be about six-club passing, but much of this material can be applied to numbers. Not only that, but most artistic passers succumb to numbers from time to time. Even I have had the temptation to pick up more than six from time to time.

You can pass seven clubs with single-spins in two count, called “seven singles,” almost as easily as six. It is just a touch faster. That can be compensated by throwing every pass more floaty than usual. The passer who starts with three clubs should start a hair late. However, a good passer starting with four can usually accommodate a simultaneous start by multiplexing the first catch. In fact multiplex catching in either hand is an easy way to fix a variety of timing errors that can work their way into seven singles. All of the usual tricks work in seven singles such as left-to-left doubles with right hand tricks, and multiplex passes.

You can also pass seven clubs with two or even three spins.

Your author was once asked to fill some outdoor stage time with another juggler shortly after sunset. We didn’t have any props or material the audience hadn’t already seen, but between us, we had seven torches. So, we lit the torches and passed them with double-spins in two-count until every last flame had burned itself out. I was surprised to discover the crowd actually liked that routine.

You might enjoy seven-club four-count. The passer with four clubs starts with a triple-spin pass. The juggler with three clubs starts with an ordinary right-to-left single-spin self throw. From that moment on, it is ordinary four-count in all respects except each pass is a triple-spin.

Eight club passing has three common variations. The most common is two-count with double-spin passes. This runs at about the same speed as six-club two-count with single-spins. The start is a bit crazy until you get used to it, and if the passers aren’t experienced in constant double-spins, it may take some practice. One nifty little trick is to suddenly throw a left-to-left triple, and flourish the right club.

Eight club singles has a weird feel. Every pass should be floated. The self-throws should be floated also. What happens is you have to throw your left self throws and your right passes at the same time, which is a challenge in left-right isolation.

Eight-club triples is how you learn nine- and ten-club passing. If you have trouble with eight-club triples, downsift to seven or even six club two-count with all triples. The normal tendency is to throw too long – too far behind your catcher’s shoulder. Ideally, every club floats high and comes down in front of, not behind the passers. Left to right variation creeps into numbers passing at this point. To fix that, watch the clubs at the top of the arc. The clubs you are throwing, and the ones your partner are throwing should cross at shoulder width apart. If a pass goes wrong, follow it with other passes to the same place, then slowly bring the pattern back to where it should be. In other words, if you suddenly throw a pass too long, don’t compensate in what would seem the natural way: by throwing the next one too short. Instead, make the following passes also long, but less and less long until you are back to normal. Partners have to talk and accept criticism. You are naturally looking up to catch things, so you are throwing blind. If your passes are all too underspun or too long or whatever, the only way you’ll know is if your partner tells you.

Constant triples is never accurate, so expect lots of upside down catches. In time, it becomes inconsequential which way the clubs are oriented. You automatically compensate for upside down catches with one-and-a-half-spin self throws.

Nine club passing is just like eight clubs, just a bit faster. If neither passer has tried five-club solo juggling, then the start may be awkward at first until someone learns how to throw the first club while holding three in one hand. If you have trouble with nine, especially with the timing, throw floatier (higher) passes. The person holding four clubs starts a fraction after the one with five.

Ten clubs can be done with high triples, but you may find it easier with quadruple-spins.

Same thing with eleven clubs.

I cannot advise past eleven clubs.

That’s it. Enjoy passing! – Jeff

The Unicycle and Unicycling

Posted on

Bicycle Technology Picture Book

A Coffee Table eBook

Copyright 2019-2024, Jeff Napier

Table of Contents


Start Here

History

Unicycles

Circus Bikes

Plastic Bikes

Recumbents

Tricycles and Quadracycles

People-Powered Cars and Boats

Electric Bikes

Art Bikes

Cargo

Derailleurs and Sprockets

Bits and Pieces

Saddles

Planetary Gearsets

Mysteries

Everything Else

Start Here


Table of Contents

A bicycle is the most efficient machine in terms of energy
expended for moving weight over distance.

A human on a bicycle is also the most efficient animal on earth in
terms of energy spent for travel.

This is a showcase site for Jeff Napier of US-Web-Design. Surprisingly low-cost solutions for all your website and marketing needs. More...

According to at least one statistical study, the health benefits
of cycling outweigh the risks by twenty to one.

Therefore, taking a closer look at these wonderful machines will
be fun, don’t you think?

This book was built for your enjoyment. It is a coffee table ebook
containing pictures of all sorts of bicycles and related equipment
from the very first bikes, to prototypes so modern they can’t yet be
built. Most of the pictures illustrate mechanical engineering at its
finest. I have inserted brief explanations and commentary where I
thought it might be useful.

Don’t forget to check out the Art Bikes
chapter!

Enjoy! – Jeff
Napier
, author

History


Table of Contents

When people first figured out that you could attach pedals to
bicycle wheels, they discovered that the bikes didn’t go very fast.
But, if they could make the wheels bigger, they could go faster. This
was the world’s first version of "gearing up."

The limitation was the length of the rider’s legs. Pretty soon, it
became ordinary for bicycles to have large front wheels, ranging from
50 to 64 inches (127 to 162 cm) in diameter. So, these became known
as "ordinary," bikes, commonly referred to as "ordinaries,"
or "ordinary racers." They were also called
"Penny-Farthings" named after large and small coins of the
era, and sometimes "boneshakers" because they had solid
rubber tires, and no shocks, while the bumpy streets were typically
unpaved or made from bricks.

It was still years into the future before veterinarian and
inventor John Boyd Dunlop would create the first air-filled tires for
his son’s tricycle.



A rider on a penny-farthing replica
image by Agnieszka
Kwiecień, license: CC-BY 3.0

Penny-farthings weren’t the first bikes. The first is credited to
a German inventor, Karl Drais. He built the first one in 1818, and
called it the Laufmaschine. It wasn’t long before his simple
contraption was copied throughout Europe and the United States. The
English started calling them dandy-horses. In America, they
were hobby-horses. and the French called them draisiennes
or draisines. It wasn’t until 40 years later than someone in
France figured out to attach pedals to the front wheel, so riders
didn’t have to kick along the sidewalk to go places. This new French
version was called velocipede (literally: "speed foot"),
although that term has come to mean any of a wide variety of early
bicycles.



draisine




Whippet "Safety"
image by Ian.wilkes

Penny-farthings with their outlandish proportions replaced
draisines to gain speed. Bikes were safer dimensions but still
capable of great speed were soon invented, and they became commonly
known as "safeties." The picture above is an oddly
over-engineered model.



McCammon "Safety"
image by Ian.wilkes

This one uses an ingenious seat height adjustment that might be a
nice modern re-invention.



Fred Birchmore

In 1934, Fred Birchmore, of Athens, Georgia, who was 22 years old
at the time, took a 40,000 mile (64,000 kilometer) mile trip. 15,000
of the miles were water crossings, but the remaining 25,000 miles
(40,000 kilometers) were by bicycle, as he circumnavigated the
globe.



A bike from 1865




Classic English bike with rod brakes
image by Pramod
Kumar T.K.




Bike repair in Africa, early 1930s




Shaft drive bikes have been around almost as long as chain drives

image by Ian.wilkes

Shaft drive bikes eliminate the need for pants clips, and you
won’t get greasy. Changing the gear ratio requires parts that are not
usually available.



An early form of gearing. Pressure on pedals unwinds straps
around racheted drums.
Nicola




A restored Shelby from 1938
Aaronwiegand




Military use of bicycles

The caption on this picture says, "US 25th Infantry on
bicycles. Caption: "On June 14, 1897, Lieutenant James Moss,
U.S. Army, led his bicycle corps of the 25th Infantry, from Fort
Missoula, Montana, up wagon trail and Indian path, to St. Louis,
Missouri, arriving July 16, 1897."

from highonadventure.com/Hoa97aug/Montana/montana.htm.



Swiss army bike
Joe
Mabel




Tieum512




Side-by-side tandem
State
Library of New South Wales

Unicycles

Table of Contents

You would think that the idea of pedals and cracks attached
directly to a wheel would have died out with penny-farthings. But no,
there are still vehicles with direct drive wheels. These would be
unicycles.


Unicycles come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Some are for
off-road competition, a somewhat dangerous skill that is quite
difficult to master. These typically have large diameter wheels with
fat, knobby tires.



Off-road unicycling
image by Samuel
Mann

Others have thin
large diameter wheels for city commuting.



A commuting unicycle
image by Midiman

Other unicycles
have small wheels, sometimes for children, and sometimes for
performance, since with a smaller wheel, you can maneuver more
precisely at slower speeds, and on a smaller stage.



image by xeaza

Another category
is tall unicycles, often called "giraffe" unicycles. Using
a chain drive from the pedals to the wheel, they can range from 4-1/2
feet to over 100 feet (1.4 to 30 meters) tall.



image by Russavia

Sem Abrahams holds the world record with a unicycle more than ten
times taller. His unicycle was just a bit over 114 feet (34 meters)
tall. The picture below links to a video of Sem’s world record ride.
If your ebook reader doesn’t support Internet links, you can go to
http://www.semcycle.biz/record/html/35m.html.




World’s tallest unicycle

Then there are monocycles. Whereas a unicyclist sits above the
wheel, or outside of the wheel, the monocyclist sits within the
wheel.



Monocycle

What do you suppose will happen if this rider has to stop fast?
Right! One of the problems with monocycles is when you put on the
brakes, you tumble right around with the wheel.

You would think that you can’t remove much else from a unicycle,
and still have a human-powered vehicle. But actually, you can remove
the seat, frame and bearings. Then you have what’s called an
"ultimate wheel."



image by Ian
Muttoo

When first learning, you can cover the
sides of the tire with electrical tape. This way, you can use the
insides of your shins as a frame and bearings. Just squeeze your legs
close together, and let the wheel rub as needed. In time, you can
learn to ride without contacting the tire at all. At first however,
you’ll want to wear pants, at least, since the wheel will inevitably
tilt one way or the other and rub uncomfortably hard.

Circus Bikes


Table of Contents

Amazing tricks can be performed on a BMX bike.



Freestyle BMX bike
image by Tukka

In the
above picture, notice the footpegs on the front and rear axles. Also
notice the rotor, a device mounted on the handlebar stem so that the
handlebar can be turned all the way around without interference from
the brake cables. This bike also has a long frame to accommodate
turning the front wheel around without interference from the rider’s
feet or knees.

Even more
remarkable tricks can be performed on a circus bike.




Circus Bike



image by
Vintageedept



image by Shizhao



image by Shizhao

Plastic
Bikes


Table of Contents

The idea of making bicycles almost entirely from plastic has
enticed people for years. In 1971, Original Plastic Bike Incorporated
was founded based on a design for a complete road bike that was
supposed to weigh just 17 pounds (7.5 kg), and be as strong as, or
even stronger than steel and aluminum alloy bikes. Some prototypes
were built, but the bike never went into production.



Itera Plastic Bike

We are no longer surprised to see plastic bicycle wheels in the
smaller diameters. These wheels aren’t quite all-plastic. The hubs
are made from regular steel components.



image by Incase

Recumbents


Table of Contents

Recumbence: The act of laying down.

Recumbent bikes, sometimes called "bents," seem like a
relatively new invention. Here’s a picture of a recumbent from 1914:





Trans-V recumbent




Toxy CL recumbent
image by EvaK




Cruzbike Vendetta
image by Bentrider811








Android front wheel drive recumbent
image by
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Android_FWD_recumbent_4.jpg




Velokraft No-com




image by bradhoc




Tandem recumbent
image by BetacommandBot

Recumbent tricycles answer to the slow speed stability problem
from which many recumbents suffer, and to starting and stopping
nicely, but have design issues. With two front wheels, they tend to
catch a lot more wind, which defeats one of the primary advantages of
recumbents. With two rear wheels, traction can sometimes be a
problem, and transmitting power to one or both wheels requires a more
elaborate drivetrain.



Recumbent Tricycle
image by Boliston

Tricycles
and Quadracycles


Table of Contents




Rickshaw
image by Joost J. Bakker from IJmuiden

Rickshaws are almost always designed with one wheel in the front,
and two in the back to support the weight of passengers. You’d think
rickshaws were invented somewhere in Asia, but they are an American
invention.



Rickshaw
image by Les
Chatfield

Quadracycles can be unique and fun, but don’t add anything in
terms of efficiency. They may be safer, since they are hard to fall
off. (Your author has discovered it is not impossible to fall off a
quadracycle!)

Quadracycles are often used when a group of three or more people
want to go together on a human-powered machine.



Antique quadracycle
image by Randal J. (RJFerret)




Quadracycle
image by Prayitno

Tricycles and quadracycles are often created for
people who have disabilities, such as paralyzed legs, since balancing
a two-wheeled machine would be difficult.

Human-Powered Cars and Boats


Table of Contents

Through the years, inventors have tried to add car-like features
to bicycles, with varying degrees of success. The problem quickly
becomes one of weight versus convenience. Putting doors, a roof, and
comfortable seats in a human-powered vehicle raises the weight so it
is hard to take it up hills. Maintenance can also be an issue. Until
someone makes a standardized one that is very popular, replacement
parts will not be readily available.

Finally, if you enclose a rider, you need to do something to keep
that rider cool in warm weather.

One machine that was popular in the mid 1970s was the PPV
(People-Powered Vehicle). This semi-enclosed vehicle could
accommodate two riders, or one rider with several bags of groceries.
With one rider, it was a monster taking it up hills, even with its
three-speed transmission. To the inventor’s credit, for durability,
it used a real transmission instead of a three-speed Sturmey-Archer,
Shimano or Sachs hub. On the other hand, for stopping, it depended
entirely on a drum brake in the front wheel, controlled by a single
brake handlever and cable.



PPV
image by livewombat

Pedal-powered boats are terribly inefficient, but they’re fun! You
can rent these at many resorts, parks, marinas and so on, and they
are calm, meditative fun.



Pedalboat
image by Bart Everson

Electric
Bikes


Table of Contents




image by Pleclown

The idea of hooking up a battery and motor to a bicycle is
attractive. Imagine that you are a healthy commuter who has an off
day. Wouldn’t it be great to let the bike to all, or most of the
work? Or, perhaps you’re not so healthy. You can work your way slowly
to better health by letting an electric bike do most of the work at
first, and less and less as you regain your health.

The line between what can be called an ‘electric bike’ and other
two-wheeled electric-powered machines is blurry.

Electric motorcycles are being manufactured that weigh hundreds of
pounds and have great speed and range.

Electric scooters of all sorts ranging from toys to machines
ridden by professional security, maintenance and guide personnel,
such as the Segway, might be called electric bicycles by some.



Segway

Conversion kits can be attached to most adult bikes, so the
mountain or road bike you’ve always enjoyed can continue to entertain
you, but now as an electric bike. However, conversion kits can be
somewhat clunky compared to bikes designed and manufactured to be
electric bikes in the first place.

Hundreds or thousands of people have tried their own homemade
conversions.



A homemade electric bike conversion
image by Hamish
Darby

The unwieldy-looking bicycle pictured above used an ordinary car
battery mounted above the front wheel. These batteries have poor
range to weight ratio. Being filled with liquid and lead, they are
remarkably heavy. The inventor of this bike reports having crashed
into a tree and smashed his battery shortly after the picture was
taken.

Electric bicycles are manufactured with and without pedals and
human-powered drivelines. Perhaps without pedals, it can’t be called
a ‘bicycle.’ I’ll leave you to decide.

Art
Bikes


Table of Contents

Bicycles are good candidates for artistic treatment, as the
following pictures illustrate.





image by Chris
Gilmore




image by Donna
B McNicol




image by hAdamksy




image by Amit Patel




image by Porsche
Brosseau


The Orange Krate, one of a series of art bikes, all
in the same configuration, but with varying colors, manufactured by
Schwinn in the late 1960s.
image by Nels
P Olsen




image by Andy
Mitchel

Artistic Unicycles


Then we have art unicycles. Unicycles have been decorated,
outfitted with colored lights, and made to look like other objects,
such as wheelbarrows.



image by Steph
B

Most artistic unicycles have something added, since there isn’t
much left to remove from a unicycle.

One goofy addition is a "handlebar unit." This is not
attached to the unicycle, but pushed along, generally in front, not
for assisting the rider in balancing, but for show. At first, it
appears the rider is on an ordinary bicycle. But wait, there’s no
frame between the front and rear wheels. Then the rider can turn the
handlebar unit this way and that, hold it over head, throw it and
catch it, and so on, resulting in a rather amazing show for anyone
not expecting that.


image by Daniel
Oines

Your silly author added a couple of wheels to make a tall unicycle
in which one tire rubbed on the one below, turning that wheel
backward, and that one’s tire rubbed on the bottom wheel, turning it
forward.



The author on his three-wheel unicycle
This picture is fuzzy because it was a low-quality snapshot. No one realized this picture might be important later.

Cargo


Table of Contents




image by Paretz
Partensky




Italian firefighter bicycle
image by Harlock81

What can be carried on a bicycle is amazing. Carrying too much
badly is also a cause for many bike accidents, so please be careful.




A rolling shoe repair shop
image by Pivari.com




A cargo bike
image by Salim
Virji




Long wheelbase cargo bike
image by Tulio
Bertorini




image by Bernard
Gagnon




Bicycle ambulance
image by Oxyman




Stougard




Bicycle trailer with passenger




Bicycle truck




Stougard

In the mid 1980s Tom Wooten, known as Wrong Way Wooten, from Bryn
Mawr, Pennsylvania, near Philadelphia, became rather famous for
riding his bike backward.



Wrong Way Wooten

He built a custom bike for his purpose. It was based on a Schwinn
Varsity, which was a very heavy all-steel bike of the late 1970s,
with a one-piece crank. He put padded tape on the handlebar to make
sitting more comfortable. He installed two mirrors on long arms so he
could see where he was going. He removed the seat, and put a portable
television in its place. He then somehow attached another ten-speed
bike to the rear of his bike in order to carry more gear.

Wrong Way then set out on a journey across the
United States with a specific self-appointed mission. "The main
reason I do what I do is to get people to realize that they have a
responsibility to other people." He represented several major
charities including The American Cancer Society, The American Lung
Society, The Heart Fund, the Jaycees, United Way, and March of Dimes,
encouraging people to donate to their favorite charities. According
to the legend, he criss-crossed the country several times totaling
28,000 miles (45,000 kilometers) over the next 17 years.

Derailleurs and Sprockets


Table of Contents




Simple but high-end, non-index shifters
image by Arnoooo

One of the latest changes in derailleurs isn’t in mechanical
design, but in the word itself. It is slowly evolving to be spelled
"derailer."



SRAM Rival rear derailleur
image by Fanny
Schertzer

< IMG width="95%" src="https://500ways.com/wp-content/uploads/bike/derailleur3.jpg"0>

SRAM Rival front derailleur image by Fanny
Schertzer




A Huret Svetto derailleur, circa 1970
image by Paco Girasol




Shimano LX e-type front derailleur image by Jeremy
Mikesell




Campagnolo Super Record rear derailleur




Single-speed bike with a chain tensioner
image by Ralf
Roletschek

above configuration seems redundant until you notice that the bike
has vertical dropouts. There is no way to adjust chain tension. Many
years ago, "half-links" were available, so you could adjust
a chain’s length to the nearest link, not to the nearest set of two
links. That was generally adequate adjustment granularity for most
uses.

Let’s hope this bike has a freewheeling sprocket. If fixed gear,
the first resistance against the pedals would cause the tensioner to
let out all the slack.



image by Ralf
Roletschek




image by Cvosmer




Belt drive
image by Keanu @ no:wp

Brakes


Table of Contents

There are more ways to stop a bike than to make it go. Below are
pictures of some interesting concepts in braking:



Spoon brake
image by AndrewDressel

One of the first brakes, called a spoon brake, just rubbed
on the surface of the tire. This was common on penny-farthings (also
called "ordinaries") – the bikes with huge front wheels –
if they had brakes at all.



Fongers rod actuated brake on Westrick rim
image by Jeremy
Burgin

It didn’t take long to figure out that rubbing something against
the rim was more durable than against the tire.



A typical old coaster brake

Coaster brakes are relatively complex mechanisms, yet they
appeared early in the history of bicycles.



Generations
www.flickr.com/photos/motoyen




Early drum brake
image by Ralf
Roletschek

Something more powerful was needed for motorcycles and cars, so
the drum brake was invented. This has two half-circle shoes that rub
against the inside of the hub shell when actuated with a cam. Just
like most caliper (rim) brakes, these work poorly when wet, unless
sealed against the weather.



Modern drum brake
image by Haupseite




Band brake
image by imoni

A band brake fits loosely around the outside of a drum mounted on
the hub. When actuated, the band tightens around the drum. This type
of brake is used extensively on slow-moving machinery such as riding
movers. Interestingly, in one direction, generally forward, the brake
is easily controlled. In the other direction, as soon as the band
touches the drum, it tends to tighten itself, making braking touchy.
Band brakes are seldom used on bicycles.



image by Ralf
Roletschek

A very common type of brake used in bicycles is a caliper brake.
There are several variations. This one is called a "centerpull"
style, because the cable pulls equally on both sides. Sidepull brakes
have a cable in which the inner wire pulls on one side, while the
cable housing ("equal and opposite reaction") pushes on the
other side.



Campagnolo Delta – a highly styled caliper brake
image by
Christian
Kunze




Rollercam brake – uses a cam instead of a bridge cable
image
by Jeff Archer


And then we have disk brakes. These are easier to keep adjusted
than caliper brakes. Because the rotor is small and near the center
of the wheel, it is less likely to get bent. The overall weight is
low compared to other kinds of brakes.

Bits
and Pieces


Table of Contents

a Few Modern Components





image by Hauptseite




image by Ukxpat




image by KMJ




image by AndrewDressel

And
a few old ones:




image by Wp-0001

When chains and sprockets were first used with bicycles, they were
adapted from farm and industrial machinery. At the time, skip-link
also known as inch-pitch chain was common.



image by tetedelacourse

Sew-up tires, also known as "tubulars"
are far less common today than they were until the early 1980s. These
are made like an American football. They have an inner tube that is
completely surrounded by the tire. The tire is sewn together with
heavy stitches along the inside edge. You can inflate a sew-up off a
wheel, and it will look like a giant, thin donut. They were very
popular for road and track racing, since they can hold a very high
pressure, and are thin and light. These are glued or fastened to the
rims with double-sided tape.
The sew-up is a simple tire compared to the modern kind, called a
clincher.



Crosssection of a typical bicycle wheel
image by Deerwood

In the picture above:

1. The metal wheel rim.

2. The rim strip. This is a rubber, cloth or plastic strip that
protects the inner tube from punctures caused by contact with the
spoke heads.

3. The side of the rim where a caliper brake can be used.

4. Inside the edges of the tire are steel cables. Without these,
when pressurized, the tire would stretch and blow off the rim.

5. The inner tube. Because of the small volume of air in a bicycle
tire, the smallest leak would cause it to deflate quickly. Since
bicycle rims usually have to accommodate spokes, it would be
difficult to seal the spoke holes. Therefore, it is not practical to
make a tubeless tire, such as cars use. The inner tube makes it
possible to have a system that is not microscopically precise, yet is
air tight.

6. The tire casing is made of cloth, and has sufficient strength
and flexibility to withstand the air pressure and bumps and cracks in
the road surface.

7. The tread of the tire is usually rubber impregnated with
carbon. That’s why most tires are black. The carbon keeps the rubber
from wearing out immediately. Without carbon, instead of 2,000 miles
(3,000 km) per pair of tires, they might last 10 miles (15 km).



Wingnut

For a short while in the 1970s, wingnuts were popular. The idea is
that riders would not have to use a wrench to remove and replace
wheels. Even though hollow axles with quick release skewers were
available then, they were somewhat more expensive.

The problem with wingnuts is that it was
hard to get them tight enough. The rear wheel would typically pull to
one side on a hard hill climb, so the rider would have to stop and
reposition the wheel, then attempt to tighten the wingnut
sufficiently. Sometimes the wings would break off. Worse, wingnuts on
the front wheel could come loose by simply parking against a bush or
bumping a wingnut with a shoe.

Seats or Saddles


Table of Contents




image by Ralf
Roletschek

Serious cyclists call seats "saddles."

Serious cyclists call seatposts "seat pillars."

Go figure!



image by AndrewDressel





A "banana" seat from a stingray bike of the late 1960s

image by AndrewDressel




A sprung leather saddle
image by Suleyman
Habib




The Brooks Professional, a top of the line leather seat
image
by The
Javelina




image by Hutschi

New riders are advised to limit the length
of their rides until they get used to their saddles. Until a rider is
quite experienced, most saddles are uncomfortable. For that reason,
inventors have been working since the beginning of bicycling to come
up with better alternatives.

Planetary Gearsets


Table of Contents

Only a few short years elapsed between the time when bicycles
started to standardize as "safeties," and when planetary
geared hubs, also called planetary gearsets, started to appear.

Safeties were bikes with same-size wheels and a chain drive from
centrally located pedals with a large sprocket to the rear wheel with
a smaller sprocket – in other words, the typical modern bicycle
design. Before safeties, bikes had pedals attached directly to a
wheel. The driven wheel had to be as large as possible. That way,
each turn of the pedals would carry the bike a reasonable distance,
so as to avoid being a slow-poke.

With a planetary gearset, the hub can turn different speeds than
the sprocket mounted on the hub. Planetary gearsets are also known as
"epicyclic gearing" or "gear hubs." The first
ones showed up around 1880, but the first commercially successful
two-speed planetary hub, called "The Hub," was in
production starting in 1898. By 1902, a three-speed hub was
available.

Now, more than a century later, planetary gearsets are still
available, with versions containing as many as 14 distinct speeds.



 The Rholoff Speedhub – 14 Speeds
image by
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/User:Marcela">Marcela

The planetary gearset has some advantages. The system is enclosed,
so is less vulnerable to weather and dirt. There’s no low-hanging
chain tensioner to get bent or caught in the weeds. The chainline is
simple, so easier to enclose, preventing grease marks on socks and
pants. In fact, belt and fully-enclosed shaft drives work with
planetary gearsets. Because a derailleur system can only be shifted
when the chain is moving, the planetary gearset is easier for
beginners, and commuters, who often have to shift after having come
to a stop. Derailleur bikes almost always have dished rear wheels.
This means that the hub flange on the right-hand side is offset
toward the center of the hub in order to make room for the sprockets.
A dished wheel is weaker against lateral forces. Planetary hubs can
have widely spaced flanges for strong rear wheels.

The downside of planetary gearsets is that they tend to
concentrate a lot of weight in the rear wheel, and may cost more.

One of the most prolific manufacturers is Sturmey-Archer, who made
a hub that remained mostly unchanged for many years, and was the
centerpiece of the classic European three-speed bike, which was very
popular in America during the 1950s and 1960s.



Classic Raleigh Three-Speed with Sturmey-Archer Hub
image by
Degen_Earthfast

When you come across an old three-speed, you can wipe the road
grime away, and read the month and year of manufacture on the outside
of a Sturmey-Archer hub.





Sturmey-Archer three-speed shifter
image by huubvanhughten




image by PeterWiki,
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Planetengetriebe_Prinzip.jpg

Then there is a new variable speed hub design, called NuVinci that
doesn’t use gears at all. There are no clicks or stops on the
shifter. You can select the exact ratio you want at any time. This
uses a system of cones and rollers to vary the ratio.



The NuVinci hub
image by Keanu @ no:wp




Inside the NuVinci hub
image by Keanu4

Mysteries


Table of Contents




image by Usien




image by SJu




image by SJu

Everything
Else


Table of Contents




Change – a folding mountain bike
image by Jean.rhs




image by Erik
Enfors




image by Andrew
Dressel




Bicycle for three
image by AndreasFahrrad




Bicycle workshop in a village in Burundi in the province of
Ruiyigi.
image by Andreas31




Modern six-day race
image by tetedelacourse




Start of a road race in Mendefera, Eritrea
image by David
Stanley




Road race in Belgium
image by Wouter
Hagens




Rental bikes
image by Tullia




In Amsterdam
image by Clive
Power from London








Dahon folding bike
Tine




Geoff Gallice
from Gainesville, FL, USA




Touring bike
image by Keithonearth




"Yellow Bike" (see below)
image by Wolfgangus
Mozart

This yellow bike is in Varberg, Sweden, and may be a "free
rental" bike. In Portland, Oregon and various other communities
throughout the world, "Yellow Bike" programs have been
tried in which bikes, which are typically painted yellow, and
converted to one-speed coaster brake machines, are given to the
public for free use. This cuts down on pollution and noise, and
reintroduces adults to bicycling who might not otherwise ride a bike.
Most yellow bike programs do not last long, since the bikes tend to
disappear faster than additional bikes can be added to the fleet.
Most yellow bikes carried signs specifically explaining that they
were free to use.



A field of bikes in Oxford, England
image by Adam
Wood




image by Halfalah




A hand and foot bike
image by www.skywheel.kr/

This is must be an interesting
contraption to ride. You can power this bike with your hands as well
as your feet. Notice that the handlebars are not hooked to the front
wheel at all. The fork has a strong reverse camber, so leaning should
be sufficient to control the bike’s direction. Starting might be
disconcerting at first.




A railway bike
image by
PekePON




Leo Tolstoy’s bike
image by Moscvitch




image by Russ
from Grosse Pointe Park, USA




playground ride. Lund, Sweden.
image by Popperipopp




Doing everything wrong
image by
www.flickr.com/people/catt1788/

In the above picture, the rider has no helmet, is riding with flip
flops on his feet, his seat is way too low, and look at that: he has
no brake levers or cables! I think we can assume it is a test ride.



An amphibious bike created in 1932




Bicycle lawn mower
B.
Jankuloski

Table
of Contents


bike bus

Posted on

Bike Fact Book

Unusual Information About Bicycles and Bicycling

Copyright 2019, Jeff Napier


Table of Contents

Start Here

Planetary Gearsets

History

This is a showcase site for Jeff Napier of US-Web-Design. Surprisingly low-cost solutions for all your website and marketing needs. More...

Unicycles

Monocycles

Ultimate Wheels

Circus Bikes

Plastic Bikes

Recumbents

Tricycles and Quadracycles

People-Powered Cars and Boats

Electric Bikes

Art Bikes

Wrong Way Wooten

Cargo

Derailleurs and Sprockets

Bits and Pieces

Saddles

Bicycle Safety

Random Bicycle Facts

Start Here

Table of Contents

A bicycle is the most efficient machine in terms of energy expended for moving weight over distance.

A human on a bicycle is also the most efficient animal on earth in terms of energy spent for travel.

Bicycling is six times more efficient than walking.

Using a bicycle, it takes 35 calories to move an average-size person one mile (1.6 km). It takes 1,860 calories to move a person a mile in a car. So, the bicycle uses two percent as much energy as a car.

The average bicycle costs three percent as much as a typical car.

“One of the key studies of cycling has found that people who cycle to work experienced a 39% lower rate of all-cause mortality compared to those who did not even after adjustment for other risk factors, including leisure time physical activity.” – CyclingEngland

According to at least one statistical study, the health benefits of cycling outweigh the risks by twenty to one.

Therefore, taking a closer look at these wonderful machines will be fun, don’t you think?


Planetary Gearsets

Table of Contents

Only a few short years elapsed between the time when bicycles started to standardize as “safeties,” and when planetary geared hubs, also called planetary gearsets, started to appear.

Safeties were bikes with same-size wheels and a chain drive from centrally located pedals with a large sprocket to the rear wheel with a smaller sprocket – in other words, the typical modern “diamond-frame” bicycle design. Before safeties, bikes had pedals attached directly to a wheel. The driven wheel had to be as large as possible. That way, each turn of the pedals would carry the bike a reasonable distance, so as to avoid being a slow-poke.

With a planetary gearset, the hub can turn different speeds than the sprocket mounted on the hub. Planetary gearsets are also known as “epicyclic gearing” or “gear hubs.” The first ones showed up around 1880, but the first commercially successful two-speed planetary hub, called “The Hub,” was in production starting in 1898. By 1902, a three-speed hub was available.

Now, more than a century later, planetary gearsets are still available, with versions containing as many as 14 distinct speeds.

The Rholoff 14-speed planetary gearing bicycle hub
The Rholoff Speedhub – 14 Speeds
via: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/User:Marcela

The planetary gearset has some advantages. The system is enclosed, so is less vulnerable to weather and dirt. There’s no low-hanging chain tensioner to get bent or caught in the weeds. The chainline is simple, so easier to enclose, preventing grease marks on socks and pants. In fact, belt and fully-enclosed shaft drives work with planetary gearsets. Because a derailleur system can only be shifted when the chain is moving, the planetary gearset is easier for beginners, and commuters, who often have to shift after having come to a stop. Derailleur bikes almost always have dished rear wheels. This means that the hub flange on the right-hand side is offset toward the center of the hub in order to make room for the sprockets. A dished wheel is weaker against lateral forces. Planetary hubs can have widely spaced flanges for strong rear wheels.

The downside of planetary gearsets is that they tend to concentrate a lot of weight in the rear wheel, and may cost more.

One of the most prolific manufacturers is Sturmey-Archer, who made a hub that remained mostly unchanged for many years, and was the centerpiece of the classic European three-speed bike, which was very popular in America during the 1950s and 1960s.

Raleigh bicycle with Sturmey-Archer 3-speed hub
Classic Raleigh Three-Speed with Sturmey-Archer Hub
via Degen_Earthfast

When you come across an old Sturmey-Archer three-speed, you can wipe the road grime away, and read the month and year of manufacture on the outside of the hub.

Sturmey Archer 3-Speed Bicycle Hub

Sturmey-Archer Three-speed shifter
Sturmey-Archer three-speed shifter

via huubvanhughten



Inside a Sturmey-Archer AW three-speed hub

Photo by Keithonearth


Shimano made competing three-speed hubs, typically the FA model. It was low-cost, but unfortunately not as strong as Sturmey-Archer’s most common model, the AW. A strong bike racer could wreck an FA hub within a couple of miles.

The Sturmey-Archer AW, in production from 1936 until at least 2008, and possibly even today, has an alarming problem of its own: There’s a neutral position between second and third gear. If the cable tension is not properly adjusted, the hub can slip into neutral. This can be a serious let-down when climbing hard up a hill.

Modern planetary gearsets are still available with three and more speeds. Shimano makes a popular 7-speed model and offers 8 and 11-speed models as well. Sachs, now part of SRAM, has been making planetary hubs since 1904, and currently offers a 7-speed model that has a wider range than Shimano’s 7-speed.

Believe it or not, there can be room left over in planetary hubs, so manufacturers make models with built-in coaster brakes. For those who don’t know the term, a coaster brake is a hub in which when you pedal backward, typically a quarter-turn of the pedals or so, a braking mechanism is applied in the hub to stop the wheel.

For many years, Shimano, Sturmey-Archer, and Sachs have all incorporated coaster-brakes. You would expect trouble due to the heat generated in the hub by breaking, but in practice, this seems to be a non-problem, since there are many decades-old planetary hubs with coaster brakes that still work like new. Interestingly, the trouble-maker is Shimano’s external roller brake, that can overheat on a long hill, making screeching noises, and fading in effectiveness. Some of the most recent high-end planetary hubs accommodate a disk brake around the left side.

During the 1960s, Bendix an American compnay founded in Elmira, New York, made a two-speed hub that incorporated a coaster brake and automatic shifting, sort of. If the rider backpedaled a little bit, the hub would shift into the other gear. So if it was in high, then it would be in low, and vice versa. They had three models of the “Kickback” hub, identified by colored bands around the middle of the hubs.

The ‘yellow band’ and ‘blue band’ hubs had a shoe style internal brake. When backpedaled, a course screw would push a cone against four grease-covered quarter-circle steel shoes that rode loosely along the inside of the hub shell. The cone would press them against the shell, and the bike would stop.

The yellow band had a straight-through speed, and a lower gear for hill climbing. The blue band was identical except it had a straight-through gear and a higher gear.

The ‘red band,’ Bendix’s most common two-speed kickback model, was straight-through and low, but had a different kind of brake. This had a pack of alternating disks coated in grease. Every other disk was splined to the hub and turned. The disks in between were splined to the axle, so of course they did not turn. When the brake was applied, the pack of disks was squeezed together. Several other coaster brake manufacturers used the disk pack system, but not Bendix. Of the millions of coaster brakes made by Bendix, this was one of the few with a disk pack.

You may wonder how a planetary gearset works. I did. When I was twelve years old, I took apart my Shimano 3-speed hub to see what was inside, and couldn’t quite get it back together. Fortunately, my father came to the rescue, and showed me how a couple of parts might work, and with that hint, I was able to understand it, and get it back together. 10 years later, I owned a bicycle shop, and had overhauled hundreds of 2-, 3- and 5-speed hubs. 40 years later, I took apart a Shimano 7-speed, and had a heck of a time reassembling it properly.

bicycle rear hub planetary gears
Modified, originally via PeterWiki,
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Planetengetriebe_Prinzip.jpg

So, here’s the scoop: You have a ring gear, three or more planet gears, and a sun gear all in constant contact. Through some sliding mechanisms and ratchets, you can connect the sprocket and the hub shell to various parts of the gearset. The sun gear is mounted on the axle, and does not turn, so the planets turn around it, and the ring gears is turned by the planets. The planets are kept in position by a large ring called the planet carrier. If you connect the sprocket to the planet carrier, the planets are pushed around, and because they have to rotate around the sun gear, the outer surfaces of the planets are rotating faster. The ring gear is attached to the hub, and so you have a high gear. If you connect the sprocket to the planet carrier, but also connect the hub to the planet carrier, you have direct one-to-one gearing, and the ring gear spins uselessly. Finally, if you connect the sprocket to the ring gear, and the hub to the planet carrier, you have low gear.

That accounts for a three-speed hub. For more than three speeds, you have multiple or “compound” planetary gearsets. If you have one gearset in a low gear, and another gearset also in a low gear, you have a lower “low-low” output.

A few people and manufacturers have experimented with combining derailleur systems and planetary gearsets. Your author put together a bike with a triple chainwheel, six rear sprockets, and a Sturmey-Archer 5-speed hub, for a combined total of 90 speeds. In the lowest gear, a rider could merely set the weight of a foot on a pedal, and the front wheel would jump a few millimeters off the ground.

Theoretically, with today’s equipment, one could have a triple chainwheel driving ten rear sprockets, connected to a 14-speed planetary hub. This would result in a 420-speed bike, although of course some of the ‘gears’ would be redundant.


History

Table of Contents

The previous chapter got rather historical, so let’s go a step further into the history of bicycles.

When people first figured out that you could attach pedals to bicycle wheels, they discovered that the bikes didn’t go very fast. But, if they could make the wheels bigger, they could go faster. This was the world’s first version of “gearing up.”

The limitation was the length of the rider’s legs. Pretty soon, it became ordinary for bicycles to have large front wheels, ranging from 50 to 64 inches (127 to 162 cm) in diameter. So, these became known as “ordinary,” bikes, commonly refered to as “ordinaries,” or “ordinary racers.” They were also called “Penny-Farthings” named after large and small coins of the era, and sometimes “boneshakers” because they had solid rubber tires, and no shocks, while the bumpy streets were typically unpaved or made from bricks.

It was still years into the future before veterinarian and inventor John Boyd Dunlop would create the first air-filled tires for his son’s tricycle. Back in the day, 1887 to be specific, doctors and vets had to make their own rubber gloves. He was already auspiciously equipped to experiment with rubber tires. Irish bike racer William “Willie” Hume was the first one to purchase a “safety” bike outfitted with Dr. Dunlop’s tires. He won all four races he entered, so the fate of pneumatic bicycle tires was decided.

Ordinary racer, bicycle, penny-farthing
via Agnieszka Kwiecień, license: CC-BY 3.0

The fellow riding the replica in the picture is making it look easy, but these were far from easy to master.

First, there was the matter of getting started. If you look carefully at the picture, a few inches above the rear wheel fork, on the far side, is a little footpeg. The rider would run with the bicycle to gain some momentum, then place a foot on the peg while holding the handlebar. The rider could stand on the peg and coast along, but most of the time, the rider would complete the mounting process by essentially jumping up into the saddle, then letting the feet find, or catch up with the pedals. This had to be done quickly, before the bike lost much momentum. Without enough momentum, the bike would start pitching wildly to one side or another. You can imagine a modern bicycle at a very slow speed. When you get down to around walking speed, it is very hard to steer a straight line. But with the tall, heavy bike, it really becomes an exercise in careening if you are way up there, with your head nine feet (275 cm) off the ground. Furthermore, if you turn more than just a few degrees, that big old wheel starts rubbing on your thigh. Anything beyond that, and you simply have to fall off.

So finally, there you are mounted on your ordinary, and you come to hill. You’d better pedal really hard, because you can’t gear down. Worse, when going downhill with the first ordinaries, the techniques for slowing down were all harrowing.

The first option would be to resist the pedals. But, you’re geared up, and have not only your weight to resist, but the 60 pounds (27 kg) of the bike as well. If that is not sufficient, you can rub the palm of your gloved hand on the top of the solid rubber tire – until your hand gets too hot. Some of the later ordinaries came equipped with a spoon brake. That’s a metal bar that could be operated from a hand lever that would rub on the top of the tire.

If you have to make an emergency stop, there’s only one ‘safe’ option: Jump backward off the seat, landing with one foot crosswise on the top of the back tire. This jams your foot against the fork, and skids the rear wheel. It costs rubber – and those tires wore out fast, but it could save your life. Otherwise, if something comes up where you stop quickly, such as hitting a pothole, you pitch forward. Not only will you find yourself flying forward, but the bike will very likely be caught up with you.

Tires for the ordinaries – and all sorts of other contraptions such as children’s wagons and baby strollers were sold in bulk rolls called “cab tiring.” You’d pick a width, and buy perhaps 50 feet of tire. It was a fat-walled rubber tube with a hollow middle. The rubber was quite basic by today’s standards. It had carbon mixed in, so that it wouldn’t wear out in the first mile or so. That’s why tires were always black. You’d cut off a length of cab tiring just the right length to go around your wheel. You’d insert a solid steel wire all the way through the tire. Where the tire material joins, you grab the ends of the cable and twist them together. Finally, you cut off the extra length of twisted wire, so the seam in your tire doesn’t have metal sticking out.

Some of the earliest ordinaries didn’t bother with rubber at all. They had wooden wheels, iron wheels, and sometimes wooden wheels surrounded with an iron tire. These were the true ‘boneshakers.’

There are more replica ordinaries in existence today than real ones. How can you spot the difference? The first giveaway is the pedals. Most of the replicas use modern pedals, which by law in most countries, have to be manufactured with reflectors. Back in the day, most of the parts were forged from solid steel and hand worked, so they had a clunky look with hammer or file marks here and there. Replicas will tend to use shiny, perfectly formed parts.

Ordinaries weren’t the first bikes. The first is credited to a German inventor, Karl Drais. He built the first one in 1818, and called it the Laufmaschine. It wasn’t long before his simple contraption was copied throughout Europe and the United States. The English started calling them dandy-horses. In America, they were hobby-horses. and the French called them draisiennes or draisines. It wasn’t until 40 years later than someone in France figured out to attach pedals to the front wheel, so riders didn’t have to kick along the sidewalk to go places. This new French version was called velocipede (literally: “speed foot”), although that term has come to mean any of a wide variety of early bicycles.

Draisine - an antique bicycle


Unicycles

Table of Contents

You would think that the idea of pedals and cracks attached directly to a wheel would have died out when safeties came along. But no, there are still vehicles with direct drive wheels. These would be unicycles.

unicycle

Learning to ride a unicycle is easier than it might seem. For best results, find a place with smooth level pavement and a chain-link fence. Place your foot on a pedal in the six o’clock position. By pressing down hard on the pedal with your foot, the unicycle will not be able to roll out from under you. While holding onto the fence, situate yourself on the seat. Just cling to the fence for a while as you roll a few inches (centimeters) back and forth to get a feel of the machine. When you are ready, roll forward just a single revolution of the wheel, while holding onto the fence. In time, you can hold the fence more loosely, and with more practice, you can go two or more turns of the wheel. If you are patient, you will soon feel confident letting go of the fence altogether. You’ll learn to turn and stop almost automatically. Your body will know which way to lean to control the unicycle.

Before you start riding for the first time, some safety equipment is recommended. An ordinary bicycling helmet is highly recommended. You may also like to wear the same gear that serious skaters use: Knee, elbow and wrist guards. Broken wrists are common with beginning unicyclists, so don’t avoid the wrist guards.
You may want to wear two pairs of socks, since when you are first learning, your ankles may bump the cranks with uncomfortable results. If you can arrange padding for your butt, that’s a good idea. In the beginning, it is possible to lose control such that the unicycle rolls out quickly, and you fall on your bottom, which can create an injury that’s painful for a month or more. Finally, you may want to wrap some padding around the seat. This is to protect the seat, not you. Unicycles tend to get dropped hard and frequently when learning. The good news is that once you become proficient, all these problems go away. Experts, just like expert bike riders, seldom fall.

Once you become an expert, you can learn a number of tricks such as riding backward, spinning in tight circles, riding with one foot, mounting and dismounting the unicycle in unusual ways and more. One of the important techniques to learn is idling, in which the rider rocks back and forth, maintaing balance in one spot. Once that’s possible, the rider can play a musical instrument, juggle, and other such activities, without needing to cover any distance. You can get a lot of unicycle trick riding ideas from YouTube.

Unicycles come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Some are for off-road competition, a somewhat dangerous skill that is quite difficult to master. These typically have large diameter wheels with fat, knobby tires.

off-road unicycling
Off-road unicycling
via
Samuel Mann

Others have thin large diameter wheels for city commuting.

commuting unicycle
A commuting unicycle
via Midiman

Your author built what he called a “commutiuni.” It had a super lightweight tubular rim with a 700 mm (26-inch) 260-gram sew-up tire.
Besides a lightweight frame and seat, the commutiuni also had short four and a half-inch (113 mm) cranks, so the author could spin very fast, making up for the lack of gearing.

Other unicycles have small wheels, sometimes for children, and sometimes for performance, since with a smaller wheel, you can maneuver more precisely at slower speeds, and on a smaller stage.

small unicycle
via xeaza

Another category is tall unicycles, often called “giraffe” unicycles. Using a chain drive from the pedals to the wheel, they can range from 4-1/2 feet to over 100 feet (1.4 to 30 meters) tall. When tall unicycles are discussed in America where the unit of measurement is the foot, the size is usually exaggerated up to the next even foot. So, a five-foot-three-inch unicycle is called “six-foot.”

Tall unicycles can be problematic. One problem is that their frame tubes can flex to the point where the machine is too wobbly to be rideable. Frames can become permanently bent from incorrect mounting. The most critical, and the most common problem is that chains want to fall off. Many unicycles combat this to some degree by using two sets of chains and sprockets, one on each side. Others have one or more jackshafts with several sets of chains and sprockets, each leading partway from the wheel to the crank. Yet another problem is that sprockets that use regular bicycle technology to attach to the wheel hub can strip or slip, because the forces of balancing a unicycle, and the low one-to-one gearing, put more stress on the sprockets than they were designed to withstand.

Unicycles up to about 6 feet (2 meters) tall can be “free mounted” or “open mounted.” This means that the rider can get on the unicycle unassisted and without the use of a ladder or any accessory. There are two ways to free mount. One is to quickly place a foot on the tire while holding the unicycle tilted slightly forward. Then quickly place the other foot on the lowest pedal, and then the first foot on the other pedal, riding away before the unicycle becomes too unbalanced. The other way is to run forward while holding the seat of the unicycle, then as a pedal comes around, the rider places a foot on the pedal, causing the wheel to stop, and the rider rides up in the seat as the unicycle levers forward. Once the unicycle is a bit beyond vertical, the rider pedals, gaining an upright position.

tall giraffe unicycle
via Russavia

Your author became fairly proficient in free mounting six-foot (two-meter) unicycles. Upon building a custom nine-foot (three-meter) unicycle, the author felt that a test ride was required before handing off the finished product to the customer. He didn’t feel ready, but went ahead and tested the machine. This was done by standing on the top of a Volkswagen van (which dented the roof), then climbing up to the unicycle seat. After fifteen minutes of procrastination, the author then rode away from the van, completed a figure eight in a small empty parking lot, climbed off the unicycle, and stated that he would never build such a tall one again, because he didn’t like test riding such tall machines.

Nine feet scared your author, but Sem Abrahams holds the world record with a unicycle more than ten times taller. His unicycle was just a bit over 114 feet (34 meters) tall. The picture below links to a video of Sem’s world record ride. If your ebook reader doesn’t support Internet links, you can go to http://www.semcycle.biz/record/html/35m.html.

Sem Abrahams on world's tallest unicycle
World’s tallest unicycle


Monocycles

Table of Contents

Then there are monocycles. Whereas a unicyclist sits above the wheel, or outside of the wheel, the monocyclist sits within the wheel.

monocycle
Monocycle

What do you suppose will happen if this rider has to stop fast? Right! One of the problems with monocycles is when you put on the brakes, you tumble right around with the wheel.


Ultimate Wheels

Table of Contents

You would think that you can’t remove much else from a unicycle, and still have a human-powered vehicle. But actually, you can remove the seat, frame and bearings. Then you have what’s called an “ultimate wheel.”

ultimate wheel, a unicycle without seat or pedals via Ian Muttoo

Ultimate wheels have been made in various sizes. The easiest size to learn on is around 700 mm (26 inches) in diameter. The pedals should be mounted as close to the plane of the wheel as possible, on cranks of typical length – around 6.5 inches (20 cm). To get the pedals in close, the ultimate wheel is usually made by bolting or welding a plate into the middle of the rim, and attaching threaded holders for the pedals right on the plate. I have found from painful experience that you don’t want large openings in the center plate in an ultimate wheel. Otherwise, a rider who has lost control may get a foot caught in the wheel, which makes landing on one’s feet impossible.

When first learning, you can cover the sides of the tire with electrical tape. This way, you can use the insides of your shins as a frame and bearings. Just squeeze your legs close together, and let the wheel rub as needed. In time, you can learn to ride without contacting the tire at all. At first however, you’ll want to wear pants, at least, since the wheel will inevitably tilt one way or the other and rub uncomfortably hard.

To ride an ultimate wheel the first time, find smooth pavement along a chain-link fence, just like you would to learn a unicycle. Some people learn unicycling by being held up by friends. With an ultimate wheel, this does not work as well as doing it by yourself. Place a pedal just behind the bottom center position, and as you place your foot on that pedal, the wheel will roll under you. As the wheel rolls past you, place your other foot on the other pedal, and start riding, keeping your knees close together. Some people hold the top of the tire with one hand as they start.

The biggest problem you may encounter is that an ultimate wheel can roll away from you if you dismount quickly or fall. It can roll out into traffic, causing a real mess.

There’s also a “B.C. wheel.” This has pedals mounted on bearings in such a way that both pedals are always about an inch (2.5 cm) below the center. A rider can learn to coast on this machine, but can’t easily accelerate.


Circus Bikes

Table of Contents

circus bike
Circus Bike

circus bicycle
via Vintageedept

Amazing tricks can be performed on a BMX bike. Even more remarkable tricks can be performed on a circus bike. The definition is loose, but in general a circus bike has:

* A straight fork and centered handlebar so the front wheel and handlebar can be spun without throwing the bike off-balance. Common uses for this effect are to ride with the front wheel in the air, a “wheelie,” which is actually just like riding a unicycle. While in the wheelie position, spin the handlebar and let go, letting it spin a number of turns before grabbing it and moving on to the next trick. A simpler trick is to suddenly turn the front wheel a half-turn while continuing to ride forward, backward, or in a tight circle. In a sufficiently tight circle, the front wheel and handlebar can continue to rotate from the power of the turn itself, until the rider returns to a straight line.

* A fixed gear hub so you can perform all the standard unicycle tricks, plus riding backward, easy track-stand – a bicycle trick in which you can roll back and forth slightly to maintain your position without putting a foot down.

* Footpegs or ways to place your feet, and sometimes your hands in places they don’t ordinarily go in normal bicycling activities.

* A long frame so your toes don’t interfere with a spinning front wheel. Another reason for a long frame is it makes riding on the head tube (the tube at the front of the bike that the fork goes through) easier. You can free mount a circus bike much like a giraffe unicycle, using the head tube as your seat.

Your author was working on a circus bike routine that he never perfected. Perhaps you can: I would free mount the circus bike so that I was riding on the head tube. I’d circle around once or twice, then go into an idle, meaning I’d pedal back and forth a bit, maintaining balance like on a unicycle, without going anywhere. The front wheel had a quick release mechanism, so I’d take it off. Three tennis balls were stuck in the spokes of the wheel. I took them out. Next, I spun the wheel and balanced it on my helmet. A spinning wheel is easy to balance. Then I juggled the three tennis balls for only about ten throws. I’d toss the balls, one at a time, into the audience to keep as souvenirs, take the wheel off my head, reattach it to the bike, and dismount.


Plastic Bikes

Table of Contents

The idea of making bicycles almost entirely from plastic has enticed people for years. In 1971, Original Plastic Bike Incorporated was founded based on a design for a complete road bike that was supposed to weigh just 17 pounds (7.5 kg), and be as strong as, or even stronger than steel and aluminum alloy bikes. Some prototypes were built, but the bike never went into production. That may be because the plastic wasn’t quite up to the task. The company advertised that a static load of 2,500 lbs (1,100 kilos) could be put on the seat tube without damaging the bike. This would be the equivalent of riding a bike off the roof of a four-story building and landing on a paved street at 10 gees, without even bothering to lift your butt off the seat.

The hubs were made from plastic, and even the ball bearings were plastic. In an early test, a prototype went three thousand miles without showing any bearing wear. And, this is without any lubrication!

Maybe the frame itself was strong enough, but evidently they went too far trying to make the chain and sprockets out of plastic.

A bicycle distributor’s representative once gave me a plastic freewheel. It was super-light weight, and fascinated me instantly. In his presence, I put it on a bike, and rode about 100 feet (30 meters). At that point, the pawls in the freewheel stripped the plastic ratchet. Good idea. Bad execution. I took it apart, and found it wasn’t entirely plastic after all. It’s six centrifugally sprung pawls were made from steel. The ratchet surface itself, as well as the sprockets were all plastic. If I recall correctly, the threaded portion that screwed on to the hub (old style), was made from steel as well.

Not long after that, Nervar came out with an all plastic headset. It had the same shape as the headsets of the era, threaded parts with cone and cup bearings. Instead of 3/32-inch independent steel balls, it had 3/32-inch nylon balls. The promise was that it would outlast steel headsets, and this was possible. A steel headset is prone to “brinelling,” a condition in which in the case of a headset, the bearing races become pitted from hitting bumps. The plastic would absorb the impact much better. However, in use, the headsets felt a bit mushy, as if the steering was bound up with rubber bands. Then too, if one over-tightened the headset locknut, it would crack.

For a few years in the early 1980s, a Swedish company produced plastic bikes. In all, about 30,000 of these “Iteras” were made. There were problems, not the least of which was the fact that bikes were not bullet-proof. The plastic parts could be broken, perhaps more easily than equivalent steel or aluminum alloy parts.

Itera plastic bicycle
Itera Plastic Bike

Plastics have improved a lot since then. If you’re old enough, you may remember that if you dropped the TV remote, it was almost guaranteed to break. If you drop a modern remote, it probably won’t break. Plastic chemistry has improved since the early bicycle attempts, so maybe today, an all-plastic bike would work fine.

We are no longer surprised to see plastic bicycle wheels in the smaller diameters. By the way, I’ve been told that if you have one that’s bent, you can place it in your freezer, and it will remember its original shape. These wheels aren’t quite all-plastic. The hubs are made from regular steel components.

plastic bicycle wheels via Incase


Recumbents

Table of Contents

Recumbence: The act of laying down.

Recumbent bikes, sometimes called “bents,” seem like a relatively new invention. Here’s a picture of a recumbent from 1914:

vintage recumbent bicycle

The design has certain advantages, the primary one being less wind resistance. The rider can push higher gears because the limit on the power is not the rider’s weight (plus arm strength), but the amount of strength with which the rider can press back against the seat. The recumbent can be more comfortable on long rides, since the weight is supported by a large seat. On the conventional bike, the rider’s weight is supported only by the feet, hands, and the small area of the seat.

The recumbent rider has less distance to fall, so is less likely to be injured in a mishap. The rider is also able to stop more quickly than on a conventional bike, in which hard braking of the front wheel can cause the bike to flip.

The recumbent design has several disadvantages. It is less visible in traffic. It tends to weigh more, because the seat has to support the rider’s back.

The recumbent is hard to start, or ride at very low speeds. Unlike a conventional bicycle, most recumbent designs make it harder to push off the ground with one’s feet to get the bike rolling at a sufficient speed to gain control and put the feet on the pedals.

More of the rider’s weight is above the axis of the wheels on a recumbent than on a conventional bike, making it harder to control in unstable situations.

The drivetrain is usually more complex. Either it is longer to reach from the front mounted pedals to the rear wheel, or it must accommodate steering in front wheel drive (FWD) recumbents.

The rider on a conventional bike can rise off the seat a bit, balancing her weight on the pedals when hitting bumps. The recumbent rider cannot do that, so the shock is greater for the rider and the machine.

A smaller disadvantage in many recumbent designs is that the rider spends a small amount of energy keeping the legs in the horizontal position. There is a bit of muscle tension involved in supporting the weight of the legs between the seat and the feet.

Another small disadvantage is parts availability. While conventional bikes use mostly standardized parts, recumbents use many parts only available from the original manufacturer.

recumbent bike
Trans-V recumbent

recumbent bike
Toxy CL recumbent
via EvaK

recumbent cycle
Cruzbike Vendetta
via Bentrider811

recumbent bike

recumbent bicycle

bent bike
Android front wheel drive recumbent
via http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Android_FWD_recumbent_4.jpg

recumbent bike
Velokraft No-com

recumbent bicycle
via bradhoc

recumbent tandem bicycle for two
Tandem recumbent
via BetacommandBot

Recumbent tricycles answer to the slow speed stability problem and to starting and stopping nicely, but have design issues. With two front wheels, they tend to catch a lot more wind, which defeats one of the primary advantages of recumbents. With two rear wheels, traction can sometimes be a problem, and transmitting power to one or both wheels requires a more elaborate drivetrain.

recumbent tricycle three-wheeler
Recumbent Tricycle
via Boliston


Tricycles and Quadracycles

Table of Contents

This is supposed to be a book about bicycles, so I’ll keep the discussion of tricycles and quadracycles short.

The most common tricycles are for children, and adult riders who have balance issues or frequently carry a lot of cargo. Tricycles for children are terribly inefficient, but the kids don’t care.

The common adult tricycles are also inefficient compared to bicycles. The typical configuration is a front end just like an ordinary bike, and two rear wheels, with power going to only one wheel.

A differential, which makes driving both rear wheels practical in a car, is not often used in tricycles because of its additional weight and cost. Furthermore, the differential may have the opposite of the desired effect.

With power going to only one rear wheel, the speed of the other wheel can vary when going around corners. If both wheels were locked together with a solid axle, quite a bit of energy would be wasted in scuffing the wheels, since when cornering, one has to turn faster than the other.

But the differential will give power to whichever wheel is turning faster. So, if the rider leans to one side, or in sand or snow, one wheel will spin uselessly, and the other wheel will not add forward momentum.

Common adult tricycles often have a single-speed or three-speed drivetrain, and are not geared low enough for serious hill-climbing. These common tricycles are also quite flexible. As you pull hard (in a too-high gear) up a hill, you feel considerable flex. Older ones are often found with bent or broken frames. The wide seats these machines typically have are designed to seem comfortable, but they fool the purchasers. They are comfortable when the rider first sits down, but when pedaling any distance, they interfere with the muscles and quickly become uncomfortable and inefficient.

It is possible to ride a common adult three-wheeler on two wheels. The rider only has to lean to one side, possibly steering a bit to one side as well, and the tricycle will naturally raise one rear wheel into the air, becoming a bicycle with a large appendage hanging off the side. Oddly, riding this way is easy to do, and perhaps more efficient than riding on all three wheels. However, it is tough on the tricycle’s frame and the spokes of the rear wheel, since it is carrying weight at an angle, rather than on its plane. It can also be damaging to the hub bearings, which are not usually typical bicycle bearings, and can be difficult to find as replacement parts.

Rickshaws are almost always designed with one wheel in the front, and two in the back to support the weight of passengers. You’d think rickshaws were invented somewhere in Asia, but they are an American invention.

Rickshaw
Rickshaw
via Les Chatfield

Quadracycles can be unique and fun, but don’t add anything in terms of efficiency. They may be safer, since they are hard to fall off. (Your author has discovered it is not impossible to fall off a quadracycle!)

Quadracycles are often used when a group of three or more people want to go together on a human-powered machine.

quadracycle - pedal powered car
Antique quadracycle
via Randal J. (RJFerret)

bicycle technology quadracycle
Quadracycle
via Prayitno

Tricycles and quadracycles are often created for people who have disabilities, such as paralyzed legs, since balancing a two-wheeled machine would be difficult.


Human-Powered Cars and Boats

Table of Contents

Through the years, inventors have tried to add car-like features to bicycles, with varying degrees of success. The problem quickly becomes one of weight versus convenience. Putting doors, a roof, and comfortable seats in a human-powered vehicle raises the weight so it is hard to take it up hills. Maintenance can also be an issue. Until someone makes a standardized one that is very popular, replacement parts will not be readily available.

Finally, if you enclose a rider, you need to do something to keep that rider cool in warm weather.

One machine that was popular in the mid 1970s was the PPV (People-Powered Vehicle). This semi-enclosed vehicle could accommodate two riders, or one rider with several bags of groceries. With one rider, it was a monster taking it up hills, even with its three-speed transmission. To the inventor’s credit, for durability, it used a real transmission instead of a three-speed Sturmey-Archer, Shimano or Sachs hub. On the other hand, for stopping, it depended entirely on a drum brake in the front wheel, controlled by a single brake handlever and cable.

PPV - people-powered vehicle
PPV
via livewombat

I keep talking about efficiency in this book, so let’s consider something entirely different. That’s pedalboats. They are terribly inefficient, but they’re fun! You can rent these at many resorts, parks, marinas and so on, and they are calm, meditative fun.

pedalboat
Pedalboat
via Bart Everson


Electric Bikes

Table of Contents

electric bike, bicycle
via Pleclown

The idea of hooking up a battery and motor to a bicycle is attractive. Imagine that you are a healthy commuter who has an off day. Wouldn’t it be great to let the bike to all, or most of the work? Or, perhaps you’re not so healthy. You can work your way slowly to better health by letting an electric bike do most of the work at first, and less and less as you regain your health.

The line between what can be called an ‘electric bike’ and other two-wheeled machines is blurry.

Electric motorcycles are being manufactured that weigh hundreds of pounds and have great speed and range.

Electric scooters of all sorts ranging from toys to machines ridden by professional security, maintenance and guide personnel, such as the Segway, might be called electric bicycles by some.

Segway
Segway

Conversion kits can be attached to most adult bikes, so the mountain or road bike you’ve always enjoyed can continue to entertain you, but now as an electric bike. However, conversion kits can be somewhat clunky compared to bikes designed and manufactured to be electric bikes in the first place.

Hundreds or thousands of people have tried their own homemade conversions.

homemade electric bike
A homemade electric bike conversion
via Hamish Darby

The unwieldy-looking bicycle pictured above used an ordinary car battery mounted above the front wheel. These batteries have poor range to weight ratio. Being filled with liquid and lead, they are remarkably heavy. The inventor of this bike reports having crashed into a tree and smashed his battery shortly after the picture was taken.

Electric bicycles are manufactured with and without pedals and human-powered drivelines. Perhaps without pedals, it can’t be called a ‘bicycle.’ I’ll leave you to decide.

Some are assisted drive, meaning you need to pedal, adding a bit of your own power to engage the electrical system. Others can move entirely on electric power.

Most use nickel-cadmium or lithium ion batteries built into a pack. The actual batteries often look like ordinary D cells. Nickel-cadmium batteries are found in the lower-end machines. They require careful charging and use, otherwise, they don’t last long, and are expensive to replace. Lithium-ion batteries are more expensive to replace, but work with an electrical system that automatically balances the charging, so they’ll typically last much longer. They also provide more power for their weight.

Most electric bikes have regenerative breaking. When you go downhill or coast to a stop, the motor acts as a generator, slowing the bike, and charging the battery.

If you like to be accurate with terminology, the “battery” is the entire pack, composed of the individual “cells.”

The power of an electric bike is measured in watts. One with a motor sufficiently powerful to take an adult up a moderate hill will have a motor rated at 450 watts or greater.

Top speeds range from around 12 miles per hour to over 50 MPH (20 to 80 KPH). In order to be legally considered a ‘bicycle’ in most communities, meaning that licensing, insurance and perhaps a helmet are not required, the speed of an electric bike must be restricted.

electric bike


Art Bikes

Table of Contents

Bicycles are good candidates for artistic treatment, as the following pictures illustrate.

art bike

art bike
via Chris Gilmore

art bike
via Donna B McNicol

art bike
via hAdamksy

art bicycle
via Amit Patel

art project bicycle
via Porsche Brosseau

Schwinn Orange Krate

The Orange Krate, one of a series of art bikes, all in the same configuration, but with varying colors, manufactured by Schwinn in the late 1960s.
via Nels P Olsen

elliptical art bike
via Andy Mitchel

This last bike is kinetic art. As you can see, the front of the bike will rise up and down when ridden due to the off-center mounting of the front wheel.

Art bikes can be sculpted using welding to completely modify the frames, handlebars and other metal parts. Glue can be applied to frame tubing, and glitter, fake fur, plastic scraps, or just about anything you might imagine can be attached. Simply tricking a bike out in every accessory you can get your hands on is another approach. Then there’s color. Most sizes of tires are available in a variety of colors. You can mix and match accessories for color coordination. For the ultimate in color, you can paint the bike.

Millions of people throughout the world have painted bikes with ordinary spray paint getting varying but never perfect results. Some will paint the entire bike, wheels and all. Some will disassemble the bike, painting only the frame and fork. The reason spray paint that you can buy at the local hardware store doesn’t work out well is that it is scratch-prone. Under ideal conditions, it cannot be applied as strongly as factory paint, which in some cases is too toxic for home use, and in other cases is electrostatically applied and baked on.

It also takes a bit of skill to paint a bike. Professional painters use a siphon-feed gun that sprays a mix of air and atomized liquid paint. The expert will arrange a way to hold the frame and fork so that every angle is easy to see. The fork is easy, just hold it by the steering tube. For the frame, you can insert a junk seatpost as a handle. The professional will usually spray the intersections from every angle first, then the long straight sections of tubing. Depending on the type of paint used, the painter may use many light strokes, rather than trying to get the paint on all in one layer. This prevents runs and drips.

Preparation is also important. If you try to apply paint over grease or dirt, the paint will wipe right off when dry. If you apply paint over loose flaking or chipping paint, the new paint will chip off. If you apply paint over a contrasting color, it will show through your new paint. The best preparation is a complete soak in paint stripping chemical, which is dangerous because it is caustic, or sandblasting. You don’t want to use a heavy-duty blaster with a course sand such as a bridge or boat painter may use, because it will wear right through your bike’s frame tubing.

Sometimes a painter will spray a layer of white, gold or silver before the finished color, which can result in a more vivid finished product.

In the mid 1980’s two-tone paint jobs were popular. A frame would first be painted in a solid color. Then the intersections would be painted in a complimentary color. The center of the intersections would be painted solidly, but as the paint gun was moved away from the intersections, to the center of the frame tubing, the amount of paint would be reduced, so that the intersections would fade into the main color. Your author is guessing that anyone who brings back a two-tone job today would receive compliments. Examples of attractive two-tone color combinations are:

Burgandy main tubes, and darker reddish-brown, almost black intersections.

Light green main tubes, and dark blue intersections.

Yellow main tubes, and red intersections.

Artistic Unicycles

Then we have art unicycles. Unicycles have been decorated, outfitted with colored lights, and made to look like other objects, such as wheelbarrows.

stool unicycle
via Steph B

Most artistic unicycles have something added, since there isn’t much left to remove from a unicycle.

One goofy addition is a “handlebar unit.” This is not attached to the unicycle, but pushed along, generally in front, not for assisting the rider in balancing, but for show. At first, it appears the rider is on an ordinary bicycle. But wait, there’s no frame between the front and rear wheels. Then the rider can turn the handlebar unit this way and that, hold it over head, throw it and catch it, and so on, resulting in a rather amazing show for anyone not expecting that.

handlebar unit
via Daniel Oines

Your silly author added a couple of wheels to make a tall unicycle in which one tire rubbed on the one below, turning that wheel backward, and that one’s tire rubbed on the bottom wheel, turning it forward.

Jeff Napier three-wheel unicycle
The author on his three-wheel unicycle


The Legend of Wrong Way Wooten

Table of Contents

In the mid 1980s a man from Bryn Mawr, Pennsylvania, near Philadelphia, became rather famous for riding his bike backward. At the age of 13, one of his friends said that riding a bike while sitting on the handlebar would be impossible. Tom Wooten proved his friend wrong. When he saw the way people reacted to seeing him ride that way, he decided it would be his career.

Wrong Way Wooten
Wrong Way Wooten

In his late 20s, evidently after driving a tow truck for a while, and receiving a degree in psychology, he planned his first cross-country tour. Originally, he was going to ride with five other people, but they all backed out before he started. He relates, “I learned never to count on anybody for anything.”

he built a custom bike for his purpose. It was based on a Schwinn Varsity, which was a very heavy all-steel bike of the late 1970s, with a one-piece crank. He put padded tape on the handlebar to make sitting more comfortable. He installed two mirrors on long arms so he could see where he was going. He removed the seat, and put a portable television in its place. He then somehow attached another ten-speed bike to the rear of his bike in order to carry more gear. There is no information as to how the bike was attached. There are conflicting reports as to how much the entire contraption weighed. The report that I believe says it was 160 lbs (72 kg). Other reports put it at “over 300 pounds” and some say it was 450 lbs.

He converted the bike to 21 speeds, quite rare in the 1980s, but left the shifters in their original position – on the handlebar stem. This meant that he had to reach between his legs to change gears. His bike had toe-clips, which were, of course, installed backward on the pedals.

Before his first trip to traverse the entire United States, he studied maps. Being independently wealthy (according to what little is written – and we don’t know how he attained that wealth) he then hired a small airplane to fly low, examining his route for overly steep hills, road construction and other such potential problems.

Tom, who legally changed his name to “Wrong Way Wooten,” then set out on his journey with a specific self-appointed mission. “The main reason I do what I do is to get people to realize that they have a responsibility to other people.” He represented several major charities including The American Cancer Society, The American Lung Society, The Heart Fund, the Jaycees, United Way, and March of Dimes, taking donations in person and also encouraging people to donate directly to their favorite charities. According to the legend, he criss-crossed the country several times totaling 28,000 miles (45,000 kilometers) over the next 17 years.

To some, it looked like what he is doing, riding around the country on a bike, would be limitless fun, but he cites some problems, such as flat tires, bad weather and racists who sometimes tried to run him off the road. “I can’t hate them, then I would be just like them.”

He did not recommend that other people should tour backwards. “One mistake, and you’re history.”

He planned on riding for twenty-five years. Unfortunately, in 2004, at age 47, he died of a massive heart attack. His credo was, “Bind yourself to nothing and seek harmony with all things. Only then can you be truly free.” People who remember him say he was a wonderful and very personable ambassador for kindness to others.


Cargo

Table of Contents

goat on a bicycle
via Paretz Partensky

What can be carried on a bicycle is amazing. Carrying too much badly is also a cause for many bike accidents, so please be careful. Your author was once carrying two six-foot (two-meter) unicycles with one hand while steering with the other. Suddenly, a gust of wind caused the unicycles to turn in the author’s hand. The seat of one of the unicycles caught in the spokes of the bicycle’s front wheel, and your author went flying, landing on a pedal of one of the unicycles. The injury was minor, but it could have been much worse.

One of the most common cargo mistakes is bungees (“stretch cords”) that aren’t properly secured. When a bungee comes loose, a hook end will almost always get caught in the spokes, wrapping around a few times, until the wheel stops. In worst cases, they’ll break several spokes, killing the wheel’s structural integrity. This results in a sudden and serious problem.

In addition to special cargo-carrying bikes, bicycle carriers, baskets, and trailers of all descriptions have been built. Your author was once commissioned by a bakery to make a special trailer for their needs. They had a warehouse six blocks away in which they stored flour. When the trailer was completed, once a day, a baker would ride to the warehouse, pick up 350 pounds (160 kilos) of flour, and haul it back to the bakery. The bakers were delighted, because until then, they used a pickup truck dedicated to that job, which made pollution, cost money for insurance and registration, and was hard to park.


Derailleurs and Sprockets

Table of Contents

The first bicycles incorporating a chain and sprockets were fixed-gear (direct drive). People soon figured out that coasting might be nice, so various arrangements for freewheeling were created, and the braking operation was changed from using your feet to resist movement of the pedals to much safer braking systems.

Now, inventors were free to go crazy. The planetary gear systems mentioned in the first part of this book came along fairly quickly. Shortly thereafter, people figured out that one could combine a chain tensioner with a stack of sprockets (often called “cogs” or a “freewheel”), so that by moving the tensioner sideways, the chain could be aligned with one or another sprocket. These first versions of derailleurs typically used only two three sprockets, closely spaced in gearing.

Then, for many years, until the late 1970s, ten-speed bikes were the norm, with five sprockets on the rear wheel, and two in front.

As you know, “ten-speeds” is a misnomer, since some of the speeds overlap, and one doesn’t shift from first through tenth, hitting every gear on the way. Just like a modern 24-speed bike doesn’t really mean you use all 24 speeds.

All modern rear derailleurs have two pulleys. The top one is called the guide pulley, and the bottom one is the tension pulley.

Some of the earliest designs had only one pulley, so shifting was a bit sloppy. At first, serious cyclists resisted two pulleys on a derailleur, figuring the extra pulley would eat up a lot of power with extra friction. It turns out that the second pulley uses only a microscopic amount of power.

During the late 1960s, some odd variations appeared, and became quite common. A French manufacturer, Simplex, made a derailleur in which the biggest parts were made from plastic. It worked quite well, but was prone to failure, as the points where the springs mounted would tear out of the plastic.

Another was by Huret. Their Allvit model was one of the very few that used ball bearings in the pulleys. This all-steel derailleur had a shell, sort of like a turtle, that protected the parallelogram mechanism which moved the pulleys in and out among the five sprockets. All the pivots were adjustable, with bolts and locknuts. Unfortunately, being adjustable, they frequently needed adjustment. Some of the Huret Allvits came with red pulleys, which became quite collectible for a while.

Index shifting did not become practical until the mid 1970s. Until then, one had to carefully adjust the shifter after selecting a gear to line up the derailleur properly for smooth and noiseless operation. The first index shifting systems generally put the detents (stops) in the derailleur, so it would precisely line up under each gear. Now, almost all systems have the detents in the shifter, depending on the cable to carry the message accurately to the derailleur. It seems like a system designed to fail, but index shifting seems to work well most of the time.

Most system have an adjusting barrel around where the cable casing meets the shifter. You can turn the barrel to adjust the system on the fly.

Colnago shifters
Simple but high-end, non-index shifters
via Arnoooo

One of the latest changes in derailleurs isn’t in mechanical design, but in the word itself. It is slowly evolving to be spelled “derailer.”


Brakes

Table of Contents

There are more ways to stop a bike than to make it go. Below are pictures of some interesting concepts in braking:

vintage bicycle spoon brake
Spoon brake
via AndrewDressel

One of the first brakes, called a spoon brake, just rubbed on the surface of the tire. This was common on penny-farthings (also called “ordinaries”) – the bikes with huge front wheels – if they had brakes at all.

antique bicycle brake
Fongers rod actuated brake on Westrick rim
via Jeremy Burgin

It didn’t take long to figure out that rubbing something against the rim was more durable than against the tire.

bicycle coaster brake
A typical old coaster brake

Coaster brakes are relatively complex mechanisms, yet they appeared early in the history of bicycles.

bicycle drum brake
Early drum brake
via Ralf Roletschek

Something more powerful was needed for motorcycles and cars, so the drum brake was invented. This has two half-circle shoes that rub against the inside of the hub shell when actuated with a cam. Just like most caliper (rim) brakes, these work poorly when wet, unless sealed against the weather.

bicycle drum brake
Modern drum brake
via Haupseite

bicycle band brake
Band brake
via imoni

A band brake fits loosely around the outside of a drum mounted on the hub. When actuated, the band tightens around the drum. This type of brake is used extensively on slow-moving machinery such as riding movers. Interestingly, in one direction, generally forward, the brake is easily controlled. In the other direction, as soon as the band touches the drum, it tends to tighten itself, making braking touchy. Band brakes are seldom used on bicycles.

Mafac Competition centerpull bicycle brake
via Ralf Roletschek

A very common type of brake used in bicycles is a caliper brake. There are several variations. This one is called a “centerpull” style, because the cable pulls equally on both sides. Sidepull brakes have a cable in which the inner wire pulls on one side, while the cable housing (“equal and opposite reaction”) pushes on the other side.

Campagnolo Delta bicycle caliper brake
Campagnolo Delta – a highly styled caliper brake
via Christian Kunze

Shimano Rollercam bicycle brake
Rollercam brake – uses a cam instead of a bridge cable
via Jeff Archer

Caliper brakes often squeak. Squeaking is caused by vibration, as the brake pad sticks, the brake arm flexes, the pad lets go a bit, then sticks again, and so on, in very rapid rhythm. This is usually remedied by cleaning the rims, replacing the pads, or adjusting or bending the brake calipers a bit, so the trailing edges of the pads touch the rims first when the brakes are squeezed lightly.

bicycle disk brake

And then we have disk brakes. These are easier to keep adjusted than caliper brakes. Because the rotor is small and near the center of the wheel, it is less likely to get bent. The overall weight is low compared to other kinds of brakes.

bike disk brake

Many disk brakes are controlled with ordinary Bowden cables. That’s the technical name for the kind of cable used for bicycle brakes and shifters. Other disk brakes are controlled with a hydraulic system. There is a piston in the brake handlever that squeezes oil through a hose to a piston in the brake assembly which presses a brake pad against the disk. The piston in the handlever is much like a doctor’s syringe. When you let go of the lever, a spring in the brake assembly retracts the brake pad, and forces the fluid back to the handlever.

bicycle disk brake

bicycle disk brake


Bits and Pieces

Table of Contents

a Few Modern Components

sondelux
via Hauptseite

bicycle handlebar end grip
via Ukxpat

bicycle cog freewheel sprockets
via KMJ

bicycle hybrid handlebar
via AndrewDressel

And a few old ones:

bicycle skip link inch-pitch chain
via Wp-0001

When chains and sprockets were first used with bicycles, they were adapted from farm and industrial machinery. At the time, skip-link also known as inch-pitch chain was common.

bicycle sew-up tubular tire
via tetedelacourse

Sew-up tires, also known as “tubulars” are far less common today than they were until the early 1980s. These are made like an American football. They have an inner tube that is completely surrounded by the tire. The tire is sewn together with heavy stitches along the inside edge. You can inflate a sew-up off a wheel, and it will look like a giant, thin donut. They were very popular for road and track racing, since they can hold a very high pressure, and are thin and light. These are glued or fastened to the rims with double-sided tape. Tourists also liked sew-ups since the rider could fix a puncture in two minutes. The tourist would have a spare tire folded up and carried under the seat or in a pack. Sew-ups take up less space than a water bottle when folded. Upon getting a flat, the rider would tear the old tire off the rim, and stretch the new tire into position using the old tape or glue. The rider would inflate the tire with a portable pump, fold the punctured tire under the seat, and ride away.

When the rider came home with a punctured tire, approximately six inches (15 cm) of the stitching along the inside edge could be cut, and the inner tube would be patched in the usual way. Then the rider would replace the stitching, and have a good spare.

The sew-up is a simple tire compared to the modern kind, called a clincher.

cross section of a bicycle wheel
Crosssection of a typical bicycle wheel
via Deerwood

In the picture above:

1. The metal wheel rim.

2. The rim strip. This is a rubber, cloth or plastic strip that protects the inner tube from punctures caused by contact with the spoke heads.

3. The side of the rim where a caliper brake can be used.

4. Inside the edges of the tire are steel cables. Without these, when pressurized, the tire would stretch and blow off the rim.

5. The inner tube. Because of the small volume of air in a bicycle tire, the smallest leak would cause it to deflate quickly. Since bicycle rims usually have to accommodate spokes, it would be difficult to seal the spoke holes. Therefore, it is not practical to make a tubeless tire, such as cars use. The inner tube makes it possible to have a system that is not microscopically precise, yet is air tight.

6. The tire casing is made of cloth, and has sufficient strength and flexibility to withstand the air pressure and bumps and cracks in the road surface.

7. The tread of the tire is usually rubber impregnated with carbon. That’s why most tires are black. The carbon keeps the rubber from wearing out immediately. Without carbon, instead of 2,000 miles (3,000 km) per pair of tires, they might last 10 miles (15 km).

dangerous bicycle axle wingnut
Wingnut

For a short while in the 1970s, wingnuts were popular. The idea is that riders would not have to use a wrench to remove and replace wheels. Even though hollow axles with quick release skewers were available then, they were somewhat more expensive.

The problem with wingnuts is that it was hard to get them tight enough. The rear wheel would typically pull to one side on a hard hill climb, so the rider would have to stop and reposition the wheel, then attempt to tighten the wingnut sufficiently. Sometimes the wings would break off. Worse, wingnuts on the front wheel could come loose by simply parking against a bush or bumping a wingnut with a shoe.


Seats or Saddles

Table of Contents

bicycle seat saddle
via Ralf Roletschek

Serious cyclists call seats “saddles.”

Serious cyclists call seatposts “seat pillars.”

Go figure!

bike seat
via AndrewDressel

bicycle seat

bike saddle
A “banana” seat from a stingray bike of the late 1960s
via AndrewDressel

Brooks bicycle leather seat saddle
A sprung leather saddle
via Suleyman Habib

Brooks Professional Pro bicycle saddle
The Brooks Professional, a top of the line leather seat
via The Javelina

Leather seats were common for a long time in bicycle history. Before plastics were readily available, they made the best compromise between comfortable softness and reasonable weight. The leather saddle started out hard as a rock. The rider was supposed to “work it in” which could mean anything from applying neatsfoot oil and beating it with a hammer, to just riding it for a long time until it naturally softened from wear. If it became too soft, there was a screw under the nose that could be adjusted to lengthen, and therefore tighten the saddle.

Easyseat
via Hutschi

New riders are advised to limit the length of their rides until they get used to their saddles. Until a rider is quite experienced, most saddles are uncomfortable. For that reason, inventors have been working since the beginning of bicycling to come up with better alternatives.


Bicycle Safety

Table of Contents

Three out of every four fatal bike accidents are due to a head injury. 97 percent of the people who died in bike accidents were not wearing helmets. It has been said that helmets are 85% effective in preventing head injury.

During the fifteen years between 1990 and 2005 in the United States, only one person riding a bike in a marked bicycle lane had a fatal accident.

In 2009, the latest year for which there are US national statistics, 618 people died in bicycle related accidents. Interestingly, 87% were male, and the average age was 41. Your author was quite surprised, figuring it would be mostly children who die in bike accidents. 52,000 people were injured, 80% were male, the average age of people injured on bikes was 31.

humorous bicycle crash scene

So, wouldn’t it be great to make money teaching bicycle safety?

The venues and ways to get paid for teaching bicycle safety are unlimited. For instance, you can get paid by schools and universities to perform at assemblies. If you can make an amusing show of some sort, perhaps demonstrating BMX freestyle skills, that also teaches some basics of bicycle safety, well, you’d be doing everyone a favor! The show has to be interesting so the audience will pay attention, they will remember, and maybe even tell their friends some of the important points.

You might like to focus some attention on aspects of bicycle safety that don’t get mentioned often enough. That’s because many safety programs miss the point. They teach kids to use hand signals, when they really ought to teach children – and adults – what really happens in a bike accident. How bad it can be. If a child breaks an arm at the beginning of summer, that kid will not be able to have nearly as much fun for the rest of the summer. If an adult breaks an arm, he may miss out on a promotion, lose his job, and pay considerable out-of-pocket expenses.

Many people don’t understand why riding on the wrong side of the road is so risky. What creative way could you come up with to illustrate that point? Teach what happens to visibility in wet weather. Don’t just tell people they need lights and reflectors. Explain why. Explain that the reflections on wet streets are confusing to drivers, and camouflage bicyclists. You get the idea.

Or, in case you don’t: Kids, and way too many adults, do not think much about their vulnerability. They think bad things can only happen to other people, not to themselves. They take risks because they haven’t learned to adequately weigh the possible outcomes. Perhaps you are the one who can teach them bicycle safety in a way that sinks in. They aren’t going to think about hospitals, bike accident attorneys, time out of work, lost money. So, you have to give them good reasons not to ride a bike while impaired, or without thinking defensively.

You can be sponsored by local businesses to perform at their company picnics, paid to present in after-school programs, or even street perform. Have you ever seen a juggler or magician doing an entertaining show and then passing the hat? You’d be surprised how much the experienced ones can make. But wouldn’t it be great if they had a message in their show? Maybe something about bike safety? Or, maybe you’re a musician who can write humorous lyrics. . .

Then, there are ideas such as putting together a free video for YouTube. If it is popular enough, if it goes viral, you can make a fine living just from the co-advertising dollars that it will bring in. The same goes for a website. You can make a free website, but better, and focused to the actual riders, and include some advertising on the side.

This next proposal is for people who are somewhat mechanically inclined:

I have been told that seven out ten bicycle accidents don’t involve cars. One out of eight bikes has a serious, often hidden, mechanical problem that could cause injury or even death. If you are mechanically inclined, I’d like to suggest that you could perform safety tune-ups on bikes where you live, and maybe even make a business of it.

As the former owner of two bike shops, founding author of BikeWebSite, and having repaired more than 15,000 bikes, I have written up some ideas for the safety tune-up business. You are free to take what I have learned, set up your business, and keep perhaps 100 people out of the hospital this year. I’d like to encourage everyone who reads this to consider the bicycle safety tune-up business.

Here are all the details. Good luck, and enjoy your new, meaningful, profitable business!

I was recently walking through a neighborhood because I was a few minutes early for a meeting, and saw something I really did not want to see. However, it changed my life, and may change your life, causing us both to help prevent something similar from happening to hundreds or maybe even thousands of other children and adults.

I watched in horror as an eleven-year-old boy came rushing down a hill on an out-of-control bicycle. He barreled through an intersection at about 30 miles per hour. Fortunately, there were no cars there just then. But, he was not out of danger yet. He hit a curb on the far side of the intersection, and with a bang of escaping air, his front wheel was instantly destroyed. At that point, the boy and the bike became separated. He airborne flight was abruptly halted when he hit a chain-link fence face first. He was taken to a hospital. I believe his injuries were minor, but it certainly could have been worse, and is worse, for many riders.

I came back a while later due to a professional curiosity. The broken bike had been forgotten at the accident scene. I tried the brakes. No go. There was no front brake cable. The back brake cable was so rusted that a grown man could not have squeezed the lever sufficiently to slow that bike.

So, it got me to thinking: What if I could have had a chance to fix that bike before the boy rode it? Of course, the accident wouldn’t have happened. But what if I could fix other bikes? There are several ways I could perform safety tune-ups and get paid. I could probably fix more than 20 bikes a day. Since one out of eight bikes have serious but hidden problems, and since seventy percent of bicycle accidents requiring hospitalization don’t involve cars, that means in the course of season, I might be able to keep up to 450 people out of the hospital. That number may be exaggerated because not all bicycle safety problems necessarily result in a serious accident. But still, if I could keep some people safe, I’d be happy.

Then, I got to thinking about a larger picture: What if I could leverage my knowledge, and show many people how to do the same thing? I would be quite happy if I could encourage someone in every community to make their living by keeping bikes safe, ultimately preventing hundreds or thousands of injuries.

Be the first in your city to make a profit while performing bicycle safety tune-ups, and keep hundreds of your friends and neighbors, and their children out of the hospital.

You don’t need years of experience. Get a good book on bicycle repair, and practice on some old garage sale or thrift store bikes. Follow the step-by-step procedure described below, and you can literally save lives. However, before you actually start out, you should be well-practiced, and I’d like to recommend you pay a professional bike mechanic to observe you while you tune up a bike, and offer commentary. Obviously, we want to be sure that you working on bikes is safe, since you want to make them safe.

If you really don’t feel mechanically inclined at all, you might consider a partnership with someone who is a good bike mechanic. You can line up venues, take care of scheduling, payments, and all the business activities. For that matter, if you don’t feel like much of a business person, you can leverage your mechanical skill with a good business partner.

Next, I’ll present the step-by-step procedure. Later, I’ll offer all sorts of business advice that will save/make you thousands more dollars.

The Tune-Up Procedure

You may feel inclined to modify this step-by-step procedure, but if you do, keep in mind that every aspect has been designed after 15,000 bikes experience, to prevent accidents. If you change anything, you really ought to have a good reason, and consider the consequences. Here it is:

1. With the bike on the ground, hold the front wheel between your knees, and turn the handlebar from side to side. It should be firmly attached. If it turns easily, then you’ll need to tighten the stem. If it is the type with a single bolt on the top, try tightening the bolt. If that doesn’t work, you may need to loosen the bolt several turns, tap it with a mallet (soft hammer), which releases a wedge inside the fork steering tube, lift the stem out, lubricate the wedge, reinsert and tighten the stem. While you’re at it, see that the stem is sufficiently inserted. Many people like having their handlebar higher. But if you exceed the limit of stem extension, the stem or fork steering tube could fail. And like many such failures, it will generally let go in a most critical time when bearing a lot of weight. Most stems of the single-bolt-on-top variety have a line molded into the side and a statement stamped into the metal to the effect: “Insert to hide this line.” That line and text must not be visible.

2. Check that the seat clamp and seatpost are tight, and that the seatpost is inserted in the frame at least two inches. Many seatposts have a line stamped in the metal, and sometimes text that says, “Insert beyond this line.”

3. Suspend the bike and check the tire seating, and then air pressures. Tires can be badly seated such that there is a place where the inner tube could bulge out, and suddenly explode. If you find a place where the tire is not seated properly, you can often reduce the air pressure to almost nothing, manually force the tire into position, and then reinflate. Sometimes it is a bit more of a struggle, since the bad seating can be due to a portion of inner tube caught under the bead of the tire, a misplaced or broken rimstrip (layer of material that prevents the top of the spokes from puncturing the inner tube), or damaged or poorly manufactured tire.

Except for serious off-road riding, the tires should be inflated to the maximum amount imprinted on the sides of the tires. Low pressures are generally more of a maintenance issue than a safety issue, or are they? When pressures are low, there is greater risk of puncture, or blow-out when hitting a curb or pothole, and therefore losing control. Furthermore, with low pressures, rims can become kinked when hitting potholes and so on, which causes caliper (rim-squeezing) brakes to work poorly.

4. Check the bearings: headset, bottom bracket set (crank), pedals, and front and rear hubs. If you find excessive grinding, tightness or wobbliness, you have at least a maintenance issue, and possibly a safety issue. Repair of these problems is more than I can cover here. You might charge additional money to fix bearing problems that you encounter, or simply tell the bike’s owner to take it to a shop for deeper repairs.

When you find a bearing mildly out of adjustment, it’s not a safety issue. If it’s a slow day, or if it’s your policy to do more than a safety tune-up, you can adjust the bearing. That can be a big plus for customer relations.

5. See if the wheels are true (round). Adjust with a spoke wrench if slightly out of true. Recommend or perform bigger repairs as needed. In the case of rim-squeezing brakes (caliper brakes), run your fingers over the rims to see if there are any kinks or outward bends. Bend them back with gentle hammer strokes or squeezing with pliers while protecting the rim with a piece of cloth. If the rims are made from aluminum alloy, only a small degree of bending is possible. Aluminum rims should be checked for fractures. If spokes are loose or broken, additional repairs will be needed. When you have more than one spoke broken where they bend and enter the hub, fatigue is likely. When spokes fatigue, they all start to break at the hub, and should all be replaced.

6. Now that the wheels have been taken care of, you can adjust the brakes. This is where you should really know what you are doing. If you have little experience with brakes, consult several bike repair manuals, get lots of practice, and maybe even have a professional bike mechanic check your work on several models of brakes. The hand levers should be secure on the handlebar.

For the remainder of this discussion, we’ll assume that you’re working on bikes with cable-operated caliper brakes. For coaster brakes, hydraulic disk brakes and so on, you must know what you are doing, or simply decline tuning up that particular bike. Fortunately, most bikes, especially the ones that are most often unsafe, have standard caliper brakes.

Look in the handlevers just past where the cable attaches. This is where cables most often start to fail. If even one strand is broken, the cable must be replaced. As each strand breaks, the cable becomes weaker, so with even one broken strand, the cable is much weaker than a new one. Keep in mind that when a cable breaks, it would be when it is at maximum tension in a panic stop, not the time you’d want it to break.

Look at the far end of the cable when it attaches at the brake caliper. You may find a broken strand just at the anchor bolt. If so, the cable needs to be replaced. The brake should open easily. If when the handlever is released, it opens lazily or not fully, the handlever pivot, brake pivot, or cable may be sticking. If you detach the cable, you can find out what’s sticky by squeezing the brake caliper and operating the handlever. If neither of those are stiff, then the cable is the culprit.

The brake pads must hit the rim at the proper height. Too high and they’ll grind through the tire. Too low, and they could suddenly slip lower, jam in the spokes, and cause a horrendous accident. Look for fractured aluminum components. Look for improper cable attachments.

The brakes should open wide enough to allow the wheels to spin freely, yet should adequately stop the bike with lots of room left over for cable stretch and brake pad wear. If you can’t achieve both, then it’s better to have the brakes rub the rims a bit, compared to too-loose brakes.

One of the best things you can do for lower-quality (most) bikes, is replace the brake pads with ones better than original equipment. These are available at all bike stores. A common brand is Cool-Stop. Oddly, many bikes, especially ones with chrome-plated steel rims, have brake pads that don’t work at all when wet. This must be attended to. Whereas most bicyclists don’t intend to ride in the rain, it can happen. Yet, it is such a rare occasion, the rider may not know that the brakes won’t work when wet.

So many brakes have been designed so poorly over the years that I have always been amazed that the bike manufacturers haven’t been sued over and over again because of this issue.

What do you do when you get a bike on which the brakes can’t be tuned adequately? You must not pass that bike. You must tell the user there’s a problem that’s beyond your ability to repair. Remember, it’s not your fault if you can’t fix it. You didn’t make the bike! (If you did, the brakes would have been better quality.) You may not be able to charge the full price for the tune up when you reject a bike as unsafe, but you must reject it. That’s your job. You’re a safety inspector first and foremost, and a repair technician after that.

7. Take a look at the chain. It’s not your responsibility to clean it. But you need to see it. You’re looking for cracked, warped, or otherwise defective links. Most of the time you can see them by looking at the chain from above while slowly pedaling backward. Just watch the chain go by from one spot. A link that’s on the verge of failure will often look swollen compared to the others, as one side plate is starting to come detached. Or, you may see that a pin is starting to drift sideways. With practice, you can easily spot a pin that’s out of position compared to the others. You should also look to one side and the other for one revolution of the chain for each side, looking for cracks in the side plates, or missing portions of a side plate. These conditions are less common, but a huge safety issue. Also consider stiff links. While not a safety issue, they can usually be easily fixed with a bit of oil, and moderate side-to-side (lateral) flexing.

8. You can now turn your attention to the gearing system. If you’re working on a typical derailleur-equipped bike, your foremost concern is the condition known as overshift. That’s when a derailleur guides a chain beyond the largest or smallest sprocket. The chain then falls off, which can quite seriously confound the rider. The general idea is while ignoring the index shifting (clicking from one distinct position to another), you can tighten the limit screws (two on each derailleur) until the chain quits shifting smoothly into the largest or smallest sprockets, then back the limit screw off. This doesn’t tell the whole story however. Many conditions such as worn chain and sprockets, badly positioned front derailleur, weak or broken derailleur springs, and bent sprockets can cause the chain to fall off even when adjusted to the best of your ability. You can study and practice such repairs, or simply refer the bike’s owner to a fully-equipped bike shop.

Time permitting, you can adjust the index shifting so the bike works as elegantly as possible. This is not officially a part of a safety tune-up, but will score you big points in terms of reputation and can sometimes be accomplished in less than a minute.

9. One of the major parts of the safety tune-up is to check all the nuts and bolts for tightness. Start at the handlebar, checking handlevers, shifters, any accessories that may be attached, and then the handlebar stem. Cruiser style and highrise handlebars should be checked to be sure they won’t shift position. Check the seat clamp and seat post bolts.

Check that the front wheel is properly attached. Check the rear wheel the same way. Check the cranks (which often come loose and while not a safety issue, can cause an expensive mechanical failure), pedals, and chainwheel bolts. Check the brakes – every single nut and bolt should be checked on the braking system. Check all fasteners associated with the shifting system. Check all accessories.

See if the bike is properly equipped with reflectors. If not, an artistic application of reflective tape is a good idea, and fairly inexpensive, lightweight, durable, and effective. Suggest proper lighting equipment to the bike’s owner.

10. Test ride the bike. You’re looking for squeaky brakes, improper shifting, and anything idiosyncratic in the ride/steering/handling characteristics. It is common for bike mechanics to baby the bike on the tune-up, in case something goes wrong. That’s not what you want to do. You want to make a fool of yourself if necessary. It is better to look like a ‘bad’ mechanic than to let a safety problem go unresolved. Squeeze those brake levers hard, shift all the way from low to high in one swoop. If something does indeed go wrong, it’s better to happen now, when you can do something about it! Compared to your client’s safety, your own pride is not important!

11. Finally, check that the rider fits the bike properly, is using a helmet, wearing fluorescent or bright clothing, not riding at night unless properly equipped and experienced, knows defensive riding techniques, and ask whether the rider would be willing to talk with others about bike safety.

The Business of This Business

Now, let’s look at some ways to make money with bicycle safety tune-ups.

Probably the first and easiest way is to charge a fixed amount for house calls. This requires the least expense to set up, since all you need are some basic tools and transportation – a car or bike.

Using the standard methods of putting advertising flyers on local bulletin boards, newspaper classified ads, and business cards, you can establish a business in which people call to set up appointments. Once you start getting enough appointments, you can arrange your days for a minimum of time spent on the road. For instance, you can schedule everyone on the east side of town on Wednesdays, the west side on Thursdays, South County on Fridays, and so on. You really want to encourage people to bring all their family’s and friends’ bikes. Once you’re at a location and set-up, you can knock out safety tune-ups every few minutes. When you establish the appointment, you’ll want to know the approximate number of bikes you’ll be expected to tune.

One way to set it up is to work on a donation basis. All safety tune-ups are free. However, you can accept cash donations to continue your work, you can accept old unwanted bikes that you can fix up and sell (or sell the parts on eBay), books that you can sell on Amazon, and so on. This would be somewhat like an old-time country doctor, who would fix people up, and accept chickens, baskets of corn, and such as payment. By going with the all-donation paradigm, you are able to bring equal safety to all, not just those who can afford to be safe. Interestingly, you may get more in donations than you would have charged. For instance, you may have decided $38 is the right price for a safety tune-up. However, many people may give you $40, $50 or even more.

You can also offer additional services. For instance, to fix a flat tire would be $10 extra. You can offer full tune-ups, including derailleur adjustment, more advanced wheel alignment, and bearing adjustment for an additional charge.

You can set up in a local park if you are working on a donation basis only. This is good advertising, because many people will see you and talk about you. Being seen, and talked about is much better than advertising in local newspapers, for instance. If you set up in a park, and want to charge money, it is best to check with the local police first since there is often a local ordinance against doing something in which money changes hands in public areas. More than likely, when you tell them what you are doing, the police will go all out to support your work.

Taking the donation idea a big step further, you may want to look for a benefactor, sponsor, or a government grant, so you can devote 100% of your time to tune-ups, and not have to pursue money.

Another version of the park idea would be to set up in a cafe or similar venue. Imagine: The cafe benefits because you’ve created a brand new stream of patrons, many of whom may not have visited the cafe before, but they may like it and develop a habit of visiting again frequently. Plus, during the ten minutes you’re tuning a bike, the customer will most likely purchase some food. Book-cafes may work in just the same way, with the added benefit that people will browse and buy books while waiting. The cafe venue is good for you also. It’s a place to work out of the sun and rain, in which you don’t have to pay any rent.

Flea markets and farmer’s markets can be gold mines, especially if you have a lot of local people walking their bikes through the market.

You can go a step further and rent your own commercial space. If you have 1,000 square feet or so, you’d have room to accept donated bikes (or buy used bikes), fix them up, display, and sell them. You could evolve into a full-service bike shop, selling parts, accessories and new bikes.

Or, maybe you already have a bike shop. What would happen in your community if you offered free safety tune-ups during the off-season?

If you are planning to sell used (or new) bikes, and if Craigslist operates in your area, you’ll find advertising on Craigs works very well! Here are some tips for working with Craigslist:

1. Due to a recent change, you can post an ad only once every couple of days. But, you can post as many different ads as you want. You’d be primarily interested in the bicycling section. Initially, once every other day, you renew your basic ad for bicycle safety tune-ups. If you’re doing this as a free (or donation) service, you can post another ad selling the same free service in the ‘free’ section of Craigslist, as long as you change all the wording. You can also create up to seven different versions of your ad for each section (bicycling and free), so you can renew one everyday, and stay near the top of the listings. Saturating craigslist to this degree may be technically possible, but it is not a neighborly thing to do. You’ll start getting complaints or getting flagged (ad removed) from people who have seen too much of your advertising.

You can also consider shifting into different categories on Craigs from time to time. You might spend a week in “services” and you could post something relevant in “items wanted” from time to time (like, “donate you unwanted bikes to provide free safety tune-ups”). Of course posting in off-topic areas is best leveraged by making sure your posting also states your primary function: bicycle safety tune-ups and how the readers can find out more.

home bike shop bicycles for sale

2. If you sell used bikes out of your garage or backyard, this is a big opportunity on craigslist, because you can post a separate ad for each bike (within reason).

Don’t forget to delete your ads as soon as the specific bikes sell.

3. If you have more than a half-dozen bikes available most of the time, you’ll probably want to make your own website. You can register an easy-to-remember, and easy-to-type domain name at Godaddy for as little as $3/year. Most ISPs (your Internet service provider) give you free space to build websites. For instance, Comcast gives you 10 megabytes of contiguous space. This is plenty for a website that sells used bikes. Or, you can do it blogger-style for free.

artistic view of bicycles for sale in a bike shop

I’d recommend a home page with basic information at the top, such as your name or your business name, phone number and email address. Then a sentence that explains what you do, maybe something like this: “Call or write to schedule your free bicycle safety tune-up. We accept donated used bikes, fix them up, and sell them here to support our program.” Also, invite people to bookmark your website, and tell everyone they know about it. Oddly enough, this invitation brings quite a bit more business.

Then start right in with a table of available bikes. Each can have a thumbnail image, small description and price. The thumbnails can be clicked on to see larger pictures. You’ll probably want to limit your larger pictures to 800 x 600 pixels so people using smartphones and small tablets can see the whole bike at once, and so the download times on slow connections will be reasonable. Thumbnails work well when they are around 200 x 150 pixels.

Now, all you need to do is get people to see your website. Each bike you advertise on Craigslist should have a link to your website. That way, if the bike they see on Craigs isn’t quite right, they’ll find one that is. You might add in the text at the bottom of each craigslist ad: “More like and unlike this bike at xyz.com.”

If you don’t have craigslist in your area, you can do the usual thing: yellow pages ad (expensive, and not required), small newspaper ads (classifieds almost always work better than bigger, more expensive display ads), business cards, and flyers on local bulletin boards. After a while, word-of-mouth will do the work for you.

If you can manage to do something content-rich or eccentric in a positive way on your website, it will soon advertise itself. Everyone will tell everyone else what you have, and they’ll all click on over and take a look. It can have a cascading effect that could literally result in millions of hits. Imagine: Let’s say ten people come to your site, and they’re all fascinated. They each tell 5 others who come take a look. So now you have had 60 visitors. They all tell 5 others, and so then you have 360 visitors – and it just keeps growing. It generally takes considerable thinking and experimentation to build this effect, but it’s well worth the effort. I have often explained this to website owners, and they just don’t get it. Eccentric doesn’t mean paint a bike purple and take its picture. Who’s going to care about that? It doesn’t mean filling a car with sand and inviting the local disk jockeys to a press conference. It means something truly eccentric. Something that strikes a chord in the visitors – enough so that they’d want to take a minute to email their friends about your website. For instance, I once posted some shocking news: I declared a certain road that was a favorite weekend ride as unsafe, and went on to explain why (because it was heavily driven, curvy and narrow without places to safely drive around bikes). That got a lot of attention. No doubt you can come up with something better than that, however.

What if you don’t have any experience or interest in building a website, doing publicity, arranging advertising, or that sort of stuff? This is where a partner can be invaluable. You can offer a portion of your profits to someone who is willing to do the things you don’t want to do. However, when you set up a partnership, make sure there is an easy and amicable way to break it up later on, should the need arise. You’d be amazed how often partnerships end for one reason or another. You want to insure right up front, with honest communication (and written communication) that you can save your brilliant business if you can no longer function well with your partner.

To advertise without a website, the most cost-effective ways are to put up flyers on local bulletin boards (the natural food store in your neighborhood is probably the very best place), and hand out lots of business cards. You should also makes a sign you can place on the ground if you’re working out of a park or flea market-like setting, and signs on your bike trailer, car, or truck. Don’t be surprised if during a house call, you get one or more neighbors who’d like you to work on their bikes, too, if you have such signs.

I’d like to recommend considering complete tune-ups as well as, or instead of just safety tune-ups, especially if you are doing house calls. It seems to me that the perceived value of a safety tune-up is between $15-$25, while a full tune-up is valued as high as $80 (more typically $45 – $60). So, in your advertising, you could say something like, “While I’m there to do a safety tune-up, I might as well give you a full tune up, including wheel alignment, bearing adjustment, and adjustment of the derailleurs,” and of course you can then charge more money for a more complete job. But, the few minutes extra the extra work requires is well more than made up for by the fact you can charge twice as much money.


Random Bicycle Facts

Table of Contents

In 1903, brothers Orville and Wilbur Wright finally got their invention to work. It was the world’s first airplane. They had to calculate and build everything themselves. They even made the engine, casting the crankcase, piston and all the parts themselves. Their first carburetor was just a valve that let gasoline drip on the side of the engine, being vaporized as it was sucked into the air intake. Since it was a prototype, they didn’t provide any cooling system. They could have flown longer than eight minutes that first day, but the engine became red-hot and quit working. How is that they were able to succeed? What was their background, that they had the mechanical skills to do all that? They were bike mechanics. They owned a bicycle shop in Dayton, Ohio.

The word “bicycle” was not invented until 1860.

In 1934, Fred Birchmore, of Athens, Georgia, who was 22 years old at the time, took a 40,000 mile (64,000 kilometer) mile trip. 15,000 of the miles were water crossings, but the remaining 25,000 miles (40,000 kilometers) were by bicycle, as he circumnavigated the globe. This was in an era before 24-speed mountain bikes. He had a heavy single-speed machine. The entire trip wore out 14 tires. He called his bike, “Bucephalus,” named after the horse ridden by Alexander the Great. During one of his water crossings, he earned his passage by piloting the ship himself, because the sailors were on strike at the time. Although he earned a degree in law, he worked as a English professor and Dean at Southern Georgia College, and later became a realtor and succeeded as an author. The book he wrote about his trip is “Around the World on a Bicycle.” Mr. Birchmore passed away in 2012, at the age of 100. He was known as an adventurer. Among his other feats, he also walked down the steps of the Washington Monument on his hands. For his honeymoon, he and his wife Willa Deane rode all around Central America on a tandem bike. They remained married for 72 years until his death. He says he was a sickly child, until he joined the YMCA, where he remained an active member for 90 years.

Fred Birchmore, enterprising bicycle rider

Every year, 100 million bikes are built. Lined up tire to tire, they’d circle the globe four times. If you could ride along that line of bicycles at a typical bicycling speed, it would take six and a half months, riding 24 hours a day.

For every time an American rides a bike, 100 Americans take a car. In Italy the average is five bike trips per hundred car trips, and in the Netherlands, thirty percent of travel is by bicycle.

A bicycle has over 1,000 parts, although more than half (typically 512) of
these are in the chain.

The longest “bicycle-built-for-two” actually seats 35 riders and is sixty feet (twenty meters) long.

In the space it takes to park a car, you can park fifteen bicycles.

More than 25 percent of the time when people drive their cars, the distance traveled is less than 6,500 feet (2 kilometers). Fifty percent of the time, the distance is less than five kilometers (3.1 miles). In the first two miles (three kilometers) the car’s engine is cold and inefficient, so it has to use considerably more fuel. Wouldn’t a bicycle make more sense for these little commutes?

You can cut your chances of heart attack or stroke in half by riding your bike 20 miles (30 kilometers) per week.

The typical commuter can save $300 per year (or 300 Euros per year, where higher gasoline prices roughly equate to the diference between dollars and Euros) by using a bicycle. Eliminating the automobile altogether can save well over a thousand dollars per year, considering the cost of car payments, maintenance and insurance.

Maintaining a car costs twenty times as much as a bicycle.

Someone figured out that if there were three times more bike riders on the streets, car-bike accidents would be reduced by half. That would be because motorists would become more conscious of bicyclists.

Mountain bikes did not exist until 1977.

Most roads have a bit of a curve toward the edges so rain water will run off. You can aim your bike, or the front wheel of your bike uphill, utilizing this curve if you are not on a hill. Then, you can alternately press forward with the pedals so the bike advances an inch or two (a few centimeters), then let off the pressure so the bike rolls back. By rocking back and forth in this manner, you can maintain your position while keeping both feet on the pedals. This is called a “track stand.” Someone who is practiced in this can do it without hands. It helps to press one thigh or shin against the bike’s toptube, to maintain better control. If you have no hill or curvature to take advantage of, you can put a hand on the front tire, and manually force the wheel back and forth to maintain balance.

The track stand was perfected by pursuit racers. They race a short distance on a track, and what’s important is to be the second one to start, to utilize the draft (parting of the wind) of the first rider. So, pursuits often started not only slowly, but with no forward progress at all.

Tsugunobu Mitsuishi from Japan holds the record for a track stand at five hours and twenty-five minutes.

One out of every ten workers in the New York City area commute by bicycle.

Bicycle commuters save 238 million gallons (more than a billion liters) of fuel per year.

Leonardo da Vinci was on the right track: He drew sketches of a machine that was more or less a bicycle, but it wasn’t until more than 300 years later that anyone made a real bicycle.

An adolescent who rides a bike is 48 percent less likely to become an overweight adult.

In 2009, the latest year for which there are statistics, $5.6 billion was spent in the US on bicycling. That’s an average of $18.66 for every American man, woman and child.

In America, three times more bicycles are sold than cars.

Real estate near a bike path has a slightly higher value.

According to The 2002 National Survey of Pedestrian and Bicyclist Attitudes and Behaviors:

26 percent of Americans say they ride primarily for “recreation.”

23.6 percent ride “for exercise or health.”

14.2 percent ride “to go home.”

13.9 percent ride “for personal errands.”

10.1 percent ride “to visit a friend or relative.”

5.0 percent commute “to school or work.”

2.3 percent ride “just to ride.”

And 4.9 percent listed “other” as their reason to ride.

72 percent of all bicycles are made in China. 85 percent of the bikes being imported into America come from China.

60 percent of all bicycle trips are less than one mile.

The average US person who rides a bike regularly has an income of $60,000.

“Bicycling has done more to emancipate women than any one thing in the world.” – Susan B. Anthony

The riders on a tandem bike have specific names, the “captain” in front, and the “stoker” is the rear rider.

Much of the technology that was necessary to create cars was first used in bicycles. This includes ball bearings, air-filled tires, and self-centering steering (fork rake).

At one time in Manhattan, there were eighty bike shops within one square mile (2.5 sq km).

For a while, the US Patent Office was divided into two buildings. One building was for everything having to do with bicycles. The other building was for everything else.

The energy equivalent of gasoline works out to 2,577 miles per gallon (1,037 km per liter) when you ride a bicycle.

The average regular bicyclist is as fit as a non-bicyclist who is ten years younger.

You weigh six times more than your bike. Your car weighs twenty times more than you.

Your car uses more energy just to power its lights than you do going the same distance on a bike.

For the same amount of energy expended in walking, a bicycle propels you four times faster.

In the early days of the automobile, one had to be mechanically inclined, since the cars broke down so often.

With bicycles, it is still a bit like that today. Bikes are not as reliable as washing machines. You can buy a washing machine, never do a thing to maintain it, yet it will work reliably for twenty years. A bicycle, on the other hand, needs to be tuned up once or twice a year, and tends to need repairs from time to time. The reasons for the difference are two:

It doesn’t matter how much a washing machine weighs. The bicycle has to be lightweight so it is responsive and easy to take up hills. The washing machine doesn’t need to crash through potholes, get covered with dirt from the road, and work in all kinds of weather.

We could have bicycles that are as reliable as washing machines. But, like washing machines, they’d weight 200 pounds (100 kilos).

Most people don’t know the difference between a spindle and an axle. The axle spins with a component, and a spindle does not. So, the wheels have spindles, and pedals have spindles. The “bottom bracket spindle” is actually an axle.

Many people also confuse screws and bolts. A bolt screws into something that has matching threads, such as a nut, or a components that has been drilled and tapped with threads. The screw makes its own threads as it is installed, such as wood screws and drywall screws. Most of the fasteners you’ll find on a bike are bolts.

“On a bicycle you are faster, friendlier and and more free than any other vehicle in city traffic.” – Bicycle Recycling Network

Trips up to three miles (five kilometers) in length average less time on a bicycle than in a car when you factor in the time necessary for parking and walking to and from the parking place.

In nearly one out of four bike-car accidents, the bicycle rider was on the wrong side of the road.

3.2 million Americans biked to work at least once a week during the past year. That’s roughly one out of every hundred.

In Seattle, like many cities, bicyclists can put their bikes on racks on city buses. It is estimated that more than 300,000 put their bikes on these bus racks last year. 353 people forgot to take their bikes off the racks.

In Seattle, where wearing a bicycle helmet for adults is optional, 89 percent of adults do wear helmets.

There are 45 times more paved road miles in Seattle than bike paths.

Have you ever grumbled about how long it takes to lock your bike? That’s generally a minute or less. To park a car and walk from the parking lot typically takes more than five minutes.

The average bicycle commuter rides 1,992 miles (3,205 kilometers) per year.

Cities with extensive networks of bike lanes have three times the number of bicycle commuters as other cities. Do you suppose that’s because the lanes created more bike commuters, or that the larger number of bicycle commuters justified the lanes?

Supporting roadway for cars costs taxpayers twenty times as much as supporting roadway for bicycles.

In Portland, Oregon, at least two attempts have been made to distribute free-use bicycles. Called the “Yellow Bike” program, the idea was to put bikes, all painted yellow, in the streets for anyone to use, free of charge. The bikes were donated, fixed up by volunteers – at-risk children learning bicycle repair skills under supervision – and equipped with signs saying “Free Community Bike, Use at Own Risk.” To improve reliability, bikes with derailleurs were converted into single-speed coaster brake bikes.

At the high point, a fleet of two hundred bikes was in operation. Unfortunately, so many bikes were vandalized and stolen that the organizers could never bring the number up to what they called the “critical mass” of 1,000 bikes. They figured with 1,000 yellow bikes in the city, people would feel no need to steal them, since there’d always be one ready to use nearby. As recently as 2007, the City of Portland itself has discussed ways to reimplement the program more successfully. One idea is to copy the systems used in Toronto, Canada and Lyon, France, in which the bikes are equipped with sophisticated electronics that monitor their locations, and report repair issues automatically. Another idea is to build a stronger financial base for the program by selling advertising space on signs on the bikes.

The original program was sponsored (with assistance from the city) by individuals with few assets, so they had no fear of lawsuits. Insuring such a free use bike operation may be difficult.

Table of Contents

bike bus

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Advanced Bicycle Repair

117 Advanced Bicycle Repair Tips, Tricks and Techniques

Copyright 2018-2024, Jeff Napier



Tools

Table of Contents

In this section you’ll discover tools you can buy, tools you can make, best practices, and unexpected way to use tools.

The drill press becomes especially versatile with a cross-slide vise like the one pictured below that you can get from MSC Direct for $60 at the time this book was written. Cross slide vises can be had for as little as $35.

With this, you have a shaper, vertical mill, even a lathe. To use this rig as a lathe, rotate the work piece in the drill press chuck, and press a cutting tool against it with the vise. To get tricky, you can mount the vise sideways, so you can cut along the axis of the workpiece. You may also need to get inventive to make adapters to hold your workpiece in the chuck.

When looking at purchasing a drill press, you want a tall work area so you’ll have room for large work pieces or a cross slide vise. You’ll want extremely variable speeds, especially slow ones. Finally, you’ll want a sturdy press, to eliminate chatter or flex that could reduce your precision.


An oxy-acetylene welding set is a good investment. The gas welding rig is generally less costly than shielded electric welding equipment, and much more versatile, especially since heating and brazing are often a big part of bicycle work.

You’ll want thin hoses and a small handset to do the precision work that bicycles require. Tank size can also be small, saving cost, since in the bicycle business, small quantities of oxygen and acetylene can last a long time.

You may find that the gas welding equipment is far more versatile than expected. Not only can you do actual welding and brazing, you can make your own tools, and you can heat and cut bicycle parts. Stuck bolts, pedals and cranks often respond well to heat. A bent Ashtabula crank can be impossible to remove. Cutting off the left side with a torch takes only a matter of seconds.

Gas welding can be dangerous in untrained or unthinking hands. The heat from the flame can set things on fire even two feet (60 cm) away, including humans. Dirty rags and puddles of lubricant, which are often found in bike shops, are easy to set on fire. Make sure only trained personnel use the welding equipment, and that you have adequate fire suppression equipment nearby.


You might also like to invest in a 4″ also known as 4-1/2″ disk grinder, and sometimes called an “angle grinder,” like the one pictured below. This one is from Harbor Freight, currently being sold for $15.

This is another one of those tools that you’ll use daily to do things like reprofile sprocket teeth, remove locks, and repair your tools.

You may believe that a power tool for $15 is going to be inadequate. I have used one of these very cheap tools for years, and it works fine. One could spend much more for the same thing with a name brand, and end up with a tool that’s not noticeably better.

This is also true of plug-in electric drills. Of course you’ll want one that can accommodate bits up to 3/8″ (10mm), and variable speed reversible. These can be had for under $30, and work just fine.

Cordless drills in the very inexpensive range tend to be low-powered, and have short battery lives, but for many bicycle repair operations, they’re completely useable. Furthermore, you’ll find that the time spent dealing with something that has to be plugged in is wasteful.

Don’t be afraid to stretch the use of your drill. You’ll find a wide variety of accessories makes life easy such as buffing wheels, mounted grinding points, and sideways cutting bits. You’ll even find an accessory for sharpening drill bits.

Perhaps one of the best places to spend more than the minimum amount for a tool is in a good set of drill bits. A set ranging from the smallest size you can imagine up to 1/2-inch (12 or 13 mm) will do nicely. Inexpensive bits not only don’t cut well right from the start, making it impossible to drill through anything but the mildest steel, but they dull quickly. Some even snap or chip at the slightest provocation.

When drilling, you’ll find that certain techniques help.

Except for small diameter holes, a slower drill speed than you might like will generally cut faster, and save the bit from overheating.

Press firmly and steadily. Place your body over the top of the drill when possible, so your eyesight is aligned and you can know you’re drilling straight.

If the bit isn’t cutting, don’t press harder. Sharpen it instead.

Drill a small hole first, then follow up with the full size you want.

If your small ‘pilot’ hole is off center, drill sideways to straighten it out right at the beginning. If you try to straighten it out once you’ve attained some depth, it will be much harder to guide it to where you want.

Speed up the drill when the bit is about to cut through, and press very lightly, so the bit doesn’t jam on the last bit of metal. Although it can be tough on a drill bit, you can reverse the drill for the last little bit before you break through. That will keep it from jamming.

Use a centerpunch to start your hole. This is a small, hardened, chisel-like tool that makes a conical depression. The drill bit won’t wander out of the depression. If you don’t have a centerpunch, a nail will do just as well except in hard steel.

When drilling steel, you might find a drop of cutting oil useful. This spreads the generated heat, protecting the bit from overheating, and lubricates the cutting action.

When drilling plastic, experiment with differing speeds, generally slow ones, to prevent the chips from melting and freezing, which can cause problems ranging from eccentric holes to frozen and even broken drill bits.


Whereas a bench grinder is also a good workshop tool, and serves different purposes, you’ll find the disk grinder more useful. The bench grinder is good for sharpening and modifying your tools, for quickly creating tool modifications, as well as making some bike parts fit that are otherwise too tight.

This bench grinder, from Harbor Freight is currently being sold for $50.

Through experience, I have discovered that an eight-inch bench grinder gets things done significantly more quickly than a six-inch version, generally having more power.

Some bench grinders come equipped with small holders for water or oil so pieces can be frequently quenched to avoid building up too much heat. Since any old can or jar will do, this is not a feature worth spending money for. On the other hand, you’ll want good quality guards and tool rests. Keep your toolrests as close to the stones as possible. You don’t want your workpiece to suddenly slip between the toolrest and the stone.

Mechanics over the years have often injured themselves by not holding small workpieces adequately while using a bench grinder. You may find the heat suddenly transfers to your fingers or thumb, resulting in a blister. Worse, the piece may fly out of your grasp, once around the wheel and its enclosing guard and then right toward your face at 100 miles per hour (160 kph). So, hold workpieces suitably, such as in Visegrips, and work slowly and carefully. This is even more the case when using brushes rather than grinding stones.

If you have ever dropped or chipped a grinding wheel, discard it immediately. If one of these flies apart in use, it can cause a major injury.

Old wire brushes mounted in your bench grinder may start throwing bristles after a while. These don’t generally cause injury unless you’re not wearing eye protection, but they will make you cuss.

Speaking of injury, many bicycle mechanics don’t realize how inconvenient a small chip flown into an eye, or a burned finger can be until they experience it for themselves. Take my word for it. Always use ear, eye and skin protection.

One of the smallest investments you can make is a circular spoke wrench. This little gem saves you the time of finding the right spoke wrench for the wheel you’re currently working on, although almost all bicycle spokes have 15 gauge or 14 gauge nipples. It has enough heft, and is of the right ergonomic shape that once you get used to it, you’ll find this becomes one of your favorite tools. You may want to grind notches in the edge to quickly identify the 15ga and 14ga slots by feel.

Are you one of those people who feel using a ‘crescent’ wrench, more properly called ‘adjustable’ wrench is ‘unprofessional?’ You may want to rethink that philosophy. Here’s why: You can leave your thumb on the thumbwheel most of the time you use the wrench, and every time you place the tool around a nut or bolt, you can with a simple flick, close the wrench for a perfect fit. Then, at the end of the stroke, you flip the wheel the other way, and the wrench opens, making it easy to quickly reposition. With just a little practice, this becomes second-nature and very rapid. Ultimately, you have an open-end wrench that fits better than specific-sized wrenches. Furthermore, it is always directly available. You don’t have to search for that 9mm wrench. Hmmm, now where did I put that?

The ideal size for bicycle repair is 6-inch or 15-cm. Your author made a loop on his belt, and carried an adjustable wrench in that loop for years, saving what turned out to be countless hours that would have otherwise been spent finding the ‘right’ wrench.


The adjustable wrench isn’t a complete replacement for wrenches. You’ll still want box-end wrenches for particularly tight, or hard-to-reach nuts and bolts. But that gets back to the problem of keeping track. During a busy workday, you’ll find your wrenches don’t always spend their time neatly organized on a pegboard. Often, you know that you want a 10mm wrench, but it is hard to see whether one you’re looking at on the bench is a 9 or 11 mm. The answer: Color coding!

Most people do this quickly and easily with colored electrical tape, like this kit you can buy from Ace Hardware for $4.

Your author labeled his wrenches and sockets from 8mm to 19 mm for years with the following four repeated colors, but of course, you can use any colors you want:

8mm red

9mm yellow

10mm blue

11mm green

12mm red

13mm yellow

14mm blue

15mm green

16mm red

17mm yellow

19mm green


Cone channellocks: First, I have to explain my poor terminology. “Channellocks” are a specific brand of tongue and groove pliers. However, many people today refer to any tongue and groove pliers as ‘channellocks.’ This is similar to the way that Crescent, who first made the style of adjustable wrench we call ‘crescent wrenches,’ became the common usage name of the tool.

Anyway, what I’m talking about is taking any medium size quality tongue and groove plier and applying it to your bench grinder until the jaws are as thin as cone wrenches. You’ll find this is a quick and dirty tool for adjusting hub bearing cones. You’ll also find it useful for many other operations around the shop.


Another place to spend more than the minimum is with screwdrivers. You’ll want all the standard sizes and types, with the most common being a #2 Philips. This screwdriver may seem large for bicycle applications, but oddly, with the Philips design, the fit isn’t so much about size as the shape. Cheap screwdrivers don’t hold up well. As the tips become worn or misshapen, they’ll slip, and even sometimes ruin bolt and screw heads. Better quality screwdrivers also have better quality handles that won’t hurt your hands as you try to work with a frozen screw.

Just in case the need ever arises, you may want to purchase the largest variety of 1/4-inch hexagonal screwdriver tips you can find. For various bicycle applications, as well as other things that may happen in your shop, such as upgrading your computer, you may want a full range of Torx, Allen, and other configurations.

The hacksaw finds frequent use in a bike shop. Getting a good frame is essential, since the cheap ones allow the blades to slip and wiggle, which makes clean sawing difficult.

Even more important than the frame is blades. The cheap ones shatter or lose teeth, or simply can’t cut well. Not only is a shattered blade annoying, it can be downright dangerous. Make sure to get 12-inch blades. You’ll find that lends to a natural cutting rhythm that the 10-inch blades are too short for. Press lightly down on the forward stroke only, and use as much of the blade as you can. The inexperienced sawyer takes short rapid strokes, becoming tired quickly, and wearing out the blade too soon.


By the way, you may be like most people in that you don’t know the difference between a screw and a bolt. “Wait,” you say, “Of course I do. A screw is turned with a screwdriver and a bolt is turned with a wrench. Right?”

Sorry, wrong! A screw cuts its own threads in the thing to which it attaches. Screws are generally used with wood, plastics and sheetmetal. Bolts, on the other hand, have matching threads in the item to which they attach, such as a nut or a pre-threaded hole in a metal component.


There’s not much more satisfying than taking powerful, effective strokes with a 14-inch flat file, sometimes also known as a rasp. You’ll find yourself using this tool frequently in the bicycle business, especially if you do custom work. Trying to do the same thing with a little 10-inch or 12-inch file would be frustrating.

You may also enjoy a large rat-tail file for removing metal in non-flat situations. Finally, a few smaller files will find occasional use.


Having a large vise fastened to a sturdy workbench that is bolted to the floor is a great asset in a bike shop. Ideally, the table will be lower than a typical workbench, to accommodate the height of the vise itself.

Your author rigged up a vise with a longer handle, a thumb set screw that would allow the handle to be locked in the middle, and large steel balls at either end. The center lock, and the weight of the balls allowed for spinning the handle, to quickly close or open the vise.


An air compressor is also valuable. It is not essential to a bike shop, and may be one of the later things you’d invest in. First, you want customers, then you want inventory. Only then should you focus on tools you can do without. However, when the time comes, your author recommends a compressor capable of at least 150 PSI (pounds per square inch). That’s the maximum pressure the compressor will reach. Because the compressor cycles between a lower pressure and the max pressure, you’ll want a maximum pressure in excess of any tires you’ll be filling, so that when the compressor is at the low end of its cycle, there’ll still be the pressure you need. Volume is less important. That’s how many cubic feet per second (CFPS) that your compressor can deliver. That’s because most bike shop operations do not use great amounts of pressure. That’s more for painting, sandblasting and filling motor vehicle tires. However, if you do painting, a bigger compressor will be needed.

Unless you can hide your compressor in a basement, another room, or outside the building, you’ll want to make sure it is a fairly quiet one.


Many bike mechanics use workstands, also known an ‘repair stands.’ The most common ones are made by Park Tool Company. The quality and cost vary considerably. You’ll want one that’s sturdy enough and with a big enough base that it won’t wobble or fall over. You may want to bolt it to the floor.

An interesting alternative is ropes, chains or cables hung from the ceiling. At the lower end of the ropes are padded hooks. The ropes should be attached to the ceiling about eight feet apart.

You normally hang a bike by putting one hook around the handlebar stem, and the other under the seat. Ideally your ropes will be easily adjustable, so you can vary the height of the bike to suit your preferences.

The disadvantage with ropes is that the bike is not solidly held. It can swing back and forth. This is easy to get used to, and soon the problem is entirely forgotten. The advantages, besides much lower cost, are that you can access the bike from both sides, and are very unlikely to damage the bike.

Workstand clamps can easily damage paint. Some can even squish frame tubes.

If you do use a workstand, the best bet is to mark, then raise the seat pillar so the bike can be held by that, rather than a fragile, painted frame tube. Don’t forget to lower the seat back down to your mark when finished, or you’ll get some surprising comments from your customers!

Your author had five workstands in his first bike shop that were practically deadly. Manufactured by park many years age, these things had pneumatic jaws. When the mechanic stepped on a pedal, the jaws would close around a seat pillar. These things were very convenient, since you didn’t have to adjust the jaws with one hand while holding the bike with the other. But they had two problems.

If a tool as small as an 8mm wrench dropped onto the pedal on the floor, the bike could be released. Your author once did just that and discovering that the bike was falling, he quickly reached out to catch the bike, grabbing it, unfortunately, by the chainring, which punctured his hand in a neat row of holes spaced a half-inch apart.

The other problem is that if a mechanic were to get a hand pinched in the jaws, which would be easy to do, it could be crushed. Fortunately, that never happened. It is easy to understand why Park discontinued these workstands.


Dremel Tool: This is also known as a 1/8″ grinder, or sometimes “die grinder.” You probably won’t use it often, and when you do, you may find the tool cuts too slowly. On the other hand, a 1/4-inch die grinder can be quite useful. These are available as air-powered or electric tools. The air-driven ones are much less energy efficient, but light in the hand and therefore easy to control. The electric ones have a heavy rotating armature that creates so much gyroscopic force that precision control is difficult. 1/4-inch die grinders usually have a chuck accessory so they can be used with 1/8″ Dremel and other accessories. Mounted stones, burrs, brushes and burnishers of all descriptions can be had to accomplish anything from polishing to engraving.

One use to which die grinders have been put is to remove the chrome plating from screws that have a layer of brass underneath, making decorative gold bolt heads. An old classic centerpull brake by Mafac called the “Racer” had such bolts. The bike mechanic with time on his or her hands might engrave the handles of a pocket knife or other items with bicycle logos.


Cleaning parts is a big part of bicycle repair. At its simplest, you can get some non-toxic, non-flammible parts washing fluid, pour it into a shallow pan, then go to work with a brush.

On the other extreme, you can rent a big parts cleaning system from a company such as Safety-Kleen. Their system involves a metal sink that sits on top of a barrel of environmentally-friendly solvent. It has a pump that pours a never-ending stream solvent through a flexible pipe. Periodically, a Safety-Kleen representative changes the barrel of solvent, so your system is always reasonably clean. They have a small machine that barely fits a full-size bicycle wheel. They also have a larger machine in which you can place most of a bicycle. So, for a quick and dirty washing, you can just set the whole bike on the sink, then wash the chain, rear derailleur and sprockets in one messy but efficient operation. The rent for the larger machine is only slightly higher, well worth the difference. Because the sink is larger, it is easy to keep yourself cleaner in the process.

You don’t need to rent from Safety-Kleen. You can get your own sink and solvent. This is a mistake! Cleaning the machine and maintaining the solvent turns out to be time-consuming and undesirable work.

While the machine itself is nice, the process is greatly enhanced with a simple hollow brush at the end of a hose that you can get from Machine Mart, like the one pictured below.

In the past, most mechanics didn’t wear gloves. They spent considerable time trying to get their hands clean at the end of the day, often ending up still dirty, and with chapped skin. Now, most mechanics wear gloves.

You can get by with the very thin gloves such as you can buy at a drugstore. But, you’ll be much happier with gloves that are 9 mil thick that you can get from hardware and tool supply stores. These thicker gloves seldom tear, and can be reused many times.

Your author removes them quickly by turning them inside out. Then, he partially inverts them, places his mouth over the opening, blowing air in, to restore the gloves to their original shape, ready to wear again.

Techniques

Table of Contents

Brazing

Table of Contents

For many years, all the top bikes were made from steel alloys and brazed. Brazing is a process that you might think of as hot gluing, very hot. But not so hot that it crystalizes the steel, and so can be stronger than actual welding.

Even today, a thin springy steel frame is considered by many as superior to aluminum alloy or various composite fiber frames because it returns almost all the energy you put into flexing the frame. Compared to steel, aluminum creates heat and returns less energy when flexed. So, if you want to build or work on steel bikes, brazing is usually the way to go.

The biggest trick in brazing is to keep the temperature of the steel low enough to maintain its strength. Steel melts around 2,100 degrees Fahrenheit, but brass, the alloy most often used in brazing, melts at 1,600 degrees.

Another option, used in the finest lugged frames, is silver brazing, also known sometimes as ‘silver soldering.’ This melts at 1,200 degrees, so is less likely to overheat the steel, but doesn’t have as much strength.

The brazing technique most commonly used in bicycle shops to augment, repair or create steel alloy frames involves an ordinary oxy-acetylene welding set. A slightly larger tip than would be used for welding is used, with a neutral or very mildly oxygenizing flame. Some people use a rosebud tip, which has several smaller flames, to spread the heat.

The frame intersection is brought up to the temperature at which brass will melt, then a stick of brass, called a “rod,” is introduced at an edge. As the stick melts, capillary action sucks it into the gap between the lug and the frame tubing.

Because the brass will not flow over, and will not stick to an oxidized surface, the parts are cleaned just before brazing, and flux is used. Flux is a material that smokes at brazing temperatures. The smoke is harmless to the brazing but keeps the oxygen from the atmosphere away. Flux can be applied in paste form to the pieces to be brazed, as well as a coating on the brazing rods.

Brazing is at its best when flowed between two surfaces. A sandwich of steel, brass, steel is remarkably strong. The ideal gap between the two pieces is 0.020 inch (1/2 millimeter).

Second best is fillet brazing. This is more of a welding process, but done at a temperature below which the steel would melt. You control and build a molten puddle where two steel parts are to be joined. Once cooled, you have a large area of contact built around intersections. With grinders or rat tail files, this can be smoothed to look very appealing, like a vintage Schwinn bicycle.

You can build a very nice and strong lugless frame by starting with pieces that fit well together. The tubes should be mitered nearly perfectly. These can then be flow brazed, so that wherever they are tangent is fastened. That, by itself, would not be sufficient to hold a bike together, so you then build fillet brazing over the flowed brazing for much more area of contact.

Going lugless is the ideal solution for when lugs are not available, such as a bike with unusual components or angles.

This process works well for much more than bicycle frames. It can be used for bicycle trailers, circus bikes, human-powered machines, unicycles, and even bike repair tools.

In making your own tools, ordinary welding is often sufficient. But there are times when brazing is superior, such as when joining hardened metals. If you weld a socket, bit of hex wrench, or knife blade to a handle, welding could kill it. However, when brazed, the steel will not lose its strength.

You’ll find a trick when lighting your torch, and another when shutting it off avoids a big mess. If you light a pure acetylene flame, big fluffy flakes of carbon are formed that float around. When they land, they are hard to clean up.

So, don’t do what so many welders do, which is to open the acetylene valve and light the torch, then add oxygen. Add some oxygen right from the start. Start with what’s called a ‘carburizing’ flame, one that’s mostly acetylene, but the bit of oxygen will eliminate the carbon output.

When shutting your torch off, the same is true. Don’t close the oxygen valve first. Instead, reduce the oxygen, then shut off the acetylene. With practice, you can learn to make a remarkably loud pop when turning off your torch. The pop has a function. It keeps your torch tip clean.

Do not close your torch valves more firmly than necessary. If you do, you can grind ridges in the valves, which makes it hard to adjust the flame.

Mitering

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If you are working with cylindrical tubing, as is often the case in bicycle technology, quality mitering becomes important. If you have a lathe, you can get cutters of the same diameter as the the tubes you want to fit a miter to. Set a tube you want to miter on the tool post, and use the compound rest to set the proper angle. Then just push the tube against the rotating cutter.

You may not have the money to buy large diameter milling-type cutters, let alone a lathe.

An in-between approach is to mount a proper diameter cutter in a drill press, and mount the tube you want to cut on the press’s table.

Better yet, you might enjoy manual mitering. You can take some six-inch sections of soft wood, and cut groves into them, so that you can sandwich them around a tube, and gently squeeze the whole works in a vise.

Then, using the largest rat-tail file you can find, you’ll find you can quickly learn to miter tubes quite accurately. Don’t be afraid to check your work often to make sure you don’t cut too much material.

Frame Alignment

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A bent frame can cause steering, stability, and chain alignment problems. You can perform the following frame alignment checks:

1. Stand so you can see the head tube and seat tube at the same time. They should be exactly parallel.

2. Tie a string from one dropout around the head tube, and down to the other dropout as pictured. The measurement from the string to the seat tube should be the same on both sides. Most frames can be cold set, which means ‘bent,’ so that the dropouts are properly aligned. Bend one side in or out, then the other. Suddenly, a bike that was difficult to ride without hands becomes easy.

In the photos, this is shown on a frame with no components. The test can be done equally well on a fully-equipped bike.

3. You can lay a straight edge against the sides of the bottom bracket, and measure the distances to the seat tube and down tube. An alignment problem here is not easy to repair and can cause driveline miseries. Fortunately, this type of alignment problem is rare.

A quicker version of the test can be done with the crank arms themselves, by measuring their distances to the tubes near the center and again at the outer ends.

Bent Back Headtube

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If you have a bicycle that’s been in a collision that bent the headtube back, the best bet is to replace the frame. However, some people experiment with bending the headtube back. This can be done by placing a long steel bar in the head tube and applying pressure without heating the frame, called ‘cold setting.’ To avoid distorting the headtube where pressure is applied by the bar, leave the headset cups in the headtube. If it is a type that doesn’t use conventional headset cups, and if the diameter is correct, you can insert temporary headset cups, or create some tight-fitting flanges on a lathe for the purpose.

You may wonder where to get a bar sufficient for this procedure. One common bar is used in conventional freeweight lifting. Another candidate is an axle from a rear-wheel drive car.

The concern with repairing a bike that has a bent-back headtube is that the frame will fracture, generally right at the intersections. Sometimes the fracture is small and you won’t see it. Then, after a hundred or a thousand miles, the frame may fail, possibly injuring the rider.

A brass sleeve can be built around the areas that are weakened. This is done by building up brazing material, keeping the temperature low enough to avoid significant weakening of the steel, but hight enough to get good adhesion. Then, using die grinders or rat tail files, you can optionally file it down, ending up with a smooth look, as you’ll see in the old Schwinn bicycles.

Dropout Alignment

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When dropouts are out of alignment, the wheel bearings suffer. Dropout alignment can also affect steering, riding efficiency and cause driveline problems. Fortunately, dropouts are easily checked and repaired. In the pictures below, you’ll see dropout alignment gauges being used. This tool is not necessary. The test can be done equally well with nuts, bolts and flat washers.

Fork Alignment

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A slightly bent fork can make a bike nearly impossible to ride without hands. It will also cause undue waste of energy as the rider works to maintain stability.
You can check a fork for alignment with the following tests:

1. Lay the fork on a flat table with the dropout touching the surface. Lay a straight edge across the back of the fork crown. The straight edge should be parallel to the table.

2. Draw a straight line on a surface. Lay the fork on the surface so that the steering tube is perfectly aligned on the line. The distance from the line to each dropout should be the same.

3. Lay a straight edge against the steering tube. You should not see a gap. Look especially at the front side, where a bend is most likely to be seen.

Bent Wheel

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Many bike mechanics try to align a bent wheel entirely by tensioning some spokes and loosening others. This is useful only for slight bends. Anything more, and the tight spokes are sure to pop before long. Furthermore, a wheel that’s pulling hard against a warped rim is weaker.

You can repair a remarkably bent wheel if you follow these steps:

1. Loosen all the spokes a few turns. Go around the wheel a few times, loosening each spoke only a turn at a time. Start at the valve hole, so you know where to finish.

2. Once all the spokes are loose, find the most bent area, and do your best to assess where the bend starts and ends along the perimeter of the wheel. Put soft blocks under the rim where the bend starts and ends, then step on the bent area, pressing it back into shape. You’ll have to press it beyond the correct amount, since it is likely to mostly spring back. Once the wheel is nearly true, tighten and adjust the spokes.

Keep in mind that most aluminum alloy rims are prone to work hardening. This means that when the metal is bent, it crystalizes, and after being bent severely or a few times, it is likely to fracture, a very dangerous situation in the case of bike wheels.

This is a good technique to know when out on the road, where a bent wheel could otherwise end a ride.

Flat Spot

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Flat spots are common and annoying, but often repairable. So, don’t throw that flat wheel away!

Keep in mind that most aluminum alloy rims are prone to work hardening. This means that when the metal is bent, it crystalizes, and after being bent severely or a few times, it is likely to fracture, a very dangerous situation in the case of bike wheels.

A mild flat spot can be fixed by loosening the spokes in the area of the flat spot, and tightening all the others.

More severe cases require more severe treatment.

1. Disconnect all the spokes in the area of the flat spot.

2. While holding the wheel in one hand, bang on it hard with a soft mallet held in the other hand, until the flat area now protrudes outward a millimeter or two too much.

3. Reconnect the spokes, and true the wheel in the normal way.

Kinked Rims

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When a bicyclist hits a curb or a pothole with under-inflated tires, or without balancing on the pedals, but instead sitting with full weight on the seat, a rim can become kinked. The repair is so simple you’d think there must be more to it. All you do is hit the kink with a hammer to bend it back into position.

There are a couple of caveats.

Most modern rims are made from an alloy of aluminum. Too much bending of this material can cause a fracture, which in the case of a bicycle wheel can result in a serious letdown.

You can also use large pliers to squeeze the kink back into shape. If you do this, make sure to pay attention to the other side of the rim, so you don’t squeeze it also, resulting in a pressed in area, the opposite of a kink. One way is to offset the pliers so that the pliers press against the bottom bend of the non-kinked side. Another is to place a cloth covered piece of wood under the jaw of the pliers. This is good too, to prevent leaving plier jaw marks on the rim.

Spokes

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Overlong spokes that stick through the top of the spoke nipples will cause punctures. Var and other companies make tools to slice off the top of spokes. These usually don’t work as well as you’d like. A better approach is to use your 4-inch disk grinder on these spoke protrusions. Another approach is to knock them off with a small chisel and hammer.

Hozan, Var and others make spoke threaders. These tools will turn a long straight-gauge spoke into the length you need. The threads are pressed out from the spoke, much like extruding a shape with modeling clay. The tool is too slow and inaccurate to make a full set of spokes, but is good to manufacture one spoke in a pinch.


Two roadside repairs for spokes are worth mentioning:

1. If you need to replace a broken spoke, but don’t have one of the right length, you can use a longer one by bending an l-shape in it, like pictured below. This will work as well as a spoke with a proper head.

2. You can hook a spoke into a nearby crossing to help support a rim.

You may find that spokes start breaking on the right, freewheel, side of a rear wheel. This indicates fatigued spokes. Those that have not broken will soon, so all spokes in that wheel should be replaced.


A quick way to diagnose wheel problems is a pinch spoke check. Turn the wheel around and with one hand on each side, squeeze each outermost spoke crossing. The spokes should all be about equally flexible. This will quickly identify loose and broken spokes. The experienced technician can also feel overly-tight spokes.

More than once, your author has seen beginning bike mechanics make a big production out of truing a wheel. The mechanic will remove the wheel from the bike, remove the tire and tube, then place it in a truing stand. This is not necessary for minor adjustments, as long as you trust that the rim strip is in good order. Simply leave the wheel on the bike, and use the brake pads, or a cable tie temporarily applied to a fork blade or seat stay as an indicator showing where the wheel needs to be trued.


Using tire levers, you run the risk of puncturing the inner tube. In most cases, there is no need to use tire levers. Instead, after removing all the air from the wheel, step on the wheel with both feet as shown in the picture. The valve can be anywhere but at the top of the wheel. Lift up on the tire and tube at the top, then press sideways over the edge of the rim. With mountain bike tires, this is very quick and easy. With some of the thinner wheels, this process is more difficult. With practice it is amazingly easy.

Installation without tire levers is even easier. Put just enough air in the inner tube for it to take its donut-like shape. Feel around the inside of the tire in case a puncturing object is still stuck in the rubber. Do this carefully, so you don’t puncture your fingers if you find something.

Lay the tube into the tire, then insert the valve stem partially into the valve hole in the rim. Slip the far side of the tire entirely onto the rim with your thumbs or fingers, starting at the valve, and working with both hands to the opposite side. The tire should slip over the edge of the rim more easily than you’d expect.

Repeat the process for the close side of the tire. Make sure you haven’t put too much air in the tube.

Push the valve down into the tire momentarily to make sure a fold of inner tube isn’t caught under an edge of the tire. Then pull the valve out of the hole to its full extension.

Put only a small amount of air in the tire, then inspect the tire all the way around, on both sides, to make sure it is all seated properly. Bring the tire up to its full rated pressure, as shown in vulcanized print on the side of the tire.


While there are new glueless patch kits on the market, most don’t work as traditional cold contact cement patch kits. Even fifty years after they have existed, many people don’t know how to use these properly. They try to light the glue on fire. It doesn’t work that way. Others will apply the patch before the glue is dry. That makes sense, since that’s the way most glues work. But not patch glue. It is a contact cement. It sticks best when fully dry.

So, find the puncture. Remove the oxidized outer layer of rubber with sand paper, not the metal scraper included with many patch kits. That thing can cause more holes. Apply glue over an area larger than the patch will cover. Let it dry fully. Then remove the backing from the patch, being careful not to touch the surface, which would contaminate it. Apply the patch over the hole, and press it on firmly. Voila, you’re done!


You don’t see many sew-up tires, also known as ‘tubulars’ these days. They are still incredibly light and efficient. These tires don’t clinch onto the rims. Instead, they are glued on. The inner tube is sewn entirely inside.

Some sew-ups can be incredibly tight when new, being almost impossible to stretch onto a rim. You can step on these, then pull up to stretch them several times before installation.

Sew-ups can be patched much like ordinary inner tubes. First you must identify the location of the hole. Inflate the tire, and set it in a bucket of water if you don’t hear where the air is coming out.

Peel away a portion of the tape on the inner side of the tire covering the course threading that binds the edges together around the inner tube. Cut these coarse threads with a small pair of scissors. Cut only enough to access the puncture. Apply a patch as described above, then using thick canvas thread, re-sew the tire around the tube. With practice, you’ll know how tight to make the stitching. Too loose, and the tube could bulge between the threads and wear a new puncture. Too tight, and the tire will be narrower in that area. You’ll find an ordinary needle, even a large one, is hard to push through the original holes in the tire casing. You’ll find that a triangular needle works better. Rather than pushing the needle through with your fingers, or even with a thimble, grasp the needle with pliers.

Derailleurs

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For best results, adjust derailleurs in this sequence:

1. Shift the chain onto the largest front sprocket.

2. Shift the rear derailleur to the smallest sprocket. Check the cable tension. If it is loose enough that you can flex the cable back and forth in the open stretch along the down tube more than 1/2-inch, loosen the anchor bolt, pull the slack out of the cable, then retighten the anchor bolt.

2. Turn in the limit screw on the rear derailleur until it can no longer shift onto the largest sprocket. Back off the screw, to just where shifting into the large sprocket is quick and easy.

3. Adjust the high gear limit screw so that the derailleur no longer shifts onto the smallest sprocket. Then back off until it shifts into high gear easily.

4. Repeat the process for the front derailleur. Keep in mind that the outer edge of the front derailleur should be a few millimeters above the largest chainring, and that the front derailleur cage should be parallel with the chainrings.

5. Adjust the index shifting with an adjusting barrel at the shifter or the derailleur until the shifting is as clean and correct as you can manage.

6 Test ride the bike to be sure your settings are correct under the pressure of actual riding.

If shifting isn’t clean, you might first check that the cables are working freely. If shifting is still not good, it may be because the chain or sprockets are worn. Other possible causes are a bent dropout, bent derailleur or loose pivots. If any of these are the case, then all the adjusting in the world won’t help. Furthermore, if you actually get a worn or damaged system to shift properly, it will probably fail in short order. So, parts replacement is usually required to get things working right again.

However, there are some things you can do. You can bend the tips of the front derailleur cage inward to more closely focus the position of the chain. You can bend the middle portion of the cage outward to prevent rubbing.

If a chain wants to fall off a chainring or the largest rear derailleur sprocket, you can spin the sprocket against your disk grinder, or a large flat file held at an angle, reshaping the teeth to an angle that’s more likely to hold the chain. This takes practice, and is not recommended unless you have replacement sprockets handy.

If the chain falls between chainrings, they are bent, the spacing is too wide, or one is install backward. Bent chainrings can be bent back with judicious hits with a hard mallet. Be careful not to hit the teeth.

Chains

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If a chain skips, the diagnosis is surprisingly easy:

If it happens once per revolution of the chain, you have a stiff or damaged link.

If it happens once per revolution of the chainwheel, you have a problem there. This is rare.

If it happens once per revolution of the rear wheel, you have foreign matter stuck between the sprockets, or a defective sprocket tooth.

Most chain skipping is random. This is usually caused by a worn chain and smallest rear sprockets. They wear together. As the chain lengthens, great pressure is applied to the sprocket teeth, since the chain no longer contacts them all concurrently. Now, all the load is applied to one tooth at a time, and so the sprocket will wear to match the chain. However, the chain will continue to lengthen as the pins and bushings in the links wear.

You can measure a chain for wear. The links have to be exactly 1/2-inch apart. It is hard to see this wear in one link, but twenty four links should be exactly one foot long. Anything visibly beyond that, and the chain is worn out.

On some modern bikes, the sprockets are made of such durable steel that wear is slight, so only the chain needs to be replaced. On many bikes, when you replace a chain for wear, you have to replace the freewheel, or at least its smallest sprockets as well, or the problem only gets worse.

The good news is that the chain wear problem progresses slowly, and is only noticeable when pulling hard against the smallest rear sprockets.

Chains should be periodically checked for damage. They usually break only when under the greatest load, such as pulling hard up a hill. This can be a serious let down for a rider who is not expecting a sudden loss of resistance.

Ideally, you can clean a chain, then visually inspect both sides of every link. This is not easy, so a quicker inspection may suffice. Looking at the top of the chain as you turn the crank backward, watch the chain go by. You should not see any link pins sticking out one side or the other farther than the others. If you do see such a link, consider replacing the whole chain. It is likely that whatever caused the slipping pin will happen to other links as well.

Cranks

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The three most common types of cranks are cotterless, Ashtabula, also known as ‘American,’ and cottered.

You seldom see cottered cranks any more unless you work on antique bikes.


Photo by Flyingdutchman63 [CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

These used round pegs, called ‘cotters’ with flat sides that wedged against a flat in the spindle (axle) surface. With time, the crank cotters, which are made from a soft steel could become corroded or distorted. The first effort at removing a cotter should try to preserve it.

1. Loosen the nut, then tap the cotter sharply with a small hammer. Ideally, it will pop loose. You can remove the nut, and the cotter will fall out.

2. If that doesn’t work, try tapping directly, but gently, on the threaded end, knowing the threads and therefore the cotter will be destroyed. If it is important to preserve the cotter, you might try penetrating oil, and wait a day or a week.

3. Failing that, use an air impact hammer, described in the next section about seat pillars, or drill a small hole entirely through the cotter. Then follow that with a larger hole, so that a small impact will cause the cotter to collapse inward, and become free. It is important to make sure your hole is drilled through the center of the cotter. If it goes sideways, you could damage the crank or the spindle.

Ashtabula cranks are one piece in the shape of a dog leg. They are made from steel, and so are rather heavy, but inexpensive and common on American-made bikes. Normally, they are removed by disassembling the bearings from the left side. The bearing cone and locknut are left-threaded.

However, these cranks are easily bent when the bike falls over. It is possible that a crank will become so bent that when the bearings are disassembled, the crank will not come out of the bottom bracket shell.

If you believe a crank is too bent, you can remove the pedal, put a long, strong pipe on the crank, and bend it back outward. Since the metal is fracture prone, consider the crank a lost cause, and replace it with a new one.

Another approach is to simply cut the crank off just outside the bearings, with a cutting torch. If heated quickly, and cut smoothly, no damage will occur to the bearings or the bike’s paint.

The most common type is a ‘cotterless’ crank. These, like the cottered cranks, consist of three pieces, two cranks on a central spindle. (Note that automotive terminology has reversed the usage of ‘axle’ and ‘spindle,’ as used in bicycle nomenclature.)

To remove cotterless cranks, you use a ‘cotterless crank remover,’ also known as a ‘crank puller,’ or ‘crank extractor,’ such as this one by Park Tool Company that you can buy from Walmart.

This tool has a hollow outer threaded nut that engages fine threads in the center of a crank. The threads seem to be there merely to hold a dust cap, but their main purpose is to support the cotterless crank remover. Remove the nut or bolt found under a dustcap that locks the crank to the axle. Once engaged, this outer threaded nut has an inner screw that presses against the spindle. When the inner screw is turned, it presses the crank off the spindle. Ideally. When using a crank remover, make sure the outer nut is fully engaged in the threads so they won’t be stripped.

Sometimes, the threads are too damaged to accept the crank remover. Sometimes, despite your best effort, the crank remover cannot do the job.

If the threads haven’t already been damaged, heat the crank quickly with a large torch flame, being careful not to affect the paint on the bike, then try the tool again. The crank may almost fall off, since heat expands the crank including the tapered opening in the crank where it meets the spindle.

How much heat is right? You want enough to cause the crank to expand, but not so much as to melt the aluminum alloy. Put a dab of grease or oil on the crank periodically as you are heating it. When the lubricant smokes, you are at the right temperature.

A special tool can be purchased that looks like a tapered fork. This tool is applied between the bottom bracket assembly and the crank. It is hit with a hammer and may force the crank off the spindle. When used at room temperature, it often doesn’t work, is awkward to use, and can cause damage to the bearings.

The thing to do is to heat the crank rapidly with a torch, then apply the tool. If you don’t have the special fork tool, you can simply tap on the outside of the crank with a mallet or hammer.

Pedals

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The left pedal is left-threaded, meaning you turn it clockwise as you are facing the bike to remove it.

At first, you might think that pedal threads are traditionally wrong. If a pedal becomes loose, it will naturally unscrew while riding. That’s dangerous. However, if it were the other way, especially if you had foot restraining devices such as toe clips, and the pedal’s bearings were to jam, the pedal wouldn’t unscrew. Instead, your foot would be subjected to tremendous force and you could be injured.

Normally, pedals are tight in the cranks, but a good solid application with a wrench will break them free. If that’s not sufficient, you might tap on the end of the wrench with a hammer. Failing that, a day or longer soaking with penetrating oil if you have it, or a thin oil such as WD-40, may free up the corrosion.

If not, you can heat the end of the crank to expand it, including the threaded hole, then the pedal should unscrew easily. In the case of aluminum cranks, overheating and melting the metal is possible. So, use a torch with a large flame to heat it rapidly, but test by putting a drop of oil on the crank periodically. When the oil smokes, you have reached the maximum safe temperature.

More than once a bicyclist has stripped the pedal threads by letting a pedal come loose, or by trying to put a left pedal on the right side or vice versa. There is a repair kit for this called the Eldi Pedal Tap/Bushing Set, available from Universal Cycles.

This kit contains thin steel sleeves threaded on the inside and outside. It also has some taps, drillbit-like-things, that expand the hole, clearing out the damaged threads, and then rethread the hole to a larger diameter. You then thread a pedal into a bushing, then thread that into the crank, and you have a repair that’s stronger than new. Unless you have a good slow-turning and easy to manage power tool, the best bet is to turn the taps manually. It will be slow going until the threaded portion engages the crank.

These threaded sleeves are sometimes incorrectly called ‘helicoils’ named after the manufacturer of similar threaded sleeves for machine and automotive use.

Accessories

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Aluminum kickstands are usually secured with a steel bolt. Due to its low location and large size, it is prone to water and contamination. By applying grease to this bolt upon installation, you’ll avoid the stuck kickstand bolt problem that is very common in older bikes.

Most aluminum kickstands are universal. They are extra long, needing to be cut to the right length to fit each bike. You’ll find that the amount to remove is fairly consistent with most ordinary bikes.

You could be gentlemanly (or gentlewomanly) and saw it off nicely with a hacksaw. Or, you can clamp the kickstand in a vise, with just the portion you want to remove sticking up above the jaws. Give it a good whack with a hammer to break it off, and your kickstand is adjusted.

One of the best, although not necessarily elegant ways to secure lighting or cyclometer wires, or brake and derailleur cables is with ordinary cable ties. These can be had in a variety of sizes and colors such as these that you can buy from Del City.

You’ll be asked more than once to remove a lock with a forgotten combination or lost key. You might try the big bolt cutters, but cables often fray in their jaws, and some of the bar locks are just too tough. The answer is your handy 4-inch disk grinder. It will quickly remove locks, as well as other large and bulky accessories.

Handlebar grips can be frustrating to remove unless you use one of these two techniques:

1. Blow compressed air against the inside edge of the grip. The air gets between the grip and the handlebar, and the grip will slip off strangely easily. It might even blow off without being touched.

2. Using your cone channellocks or a pedal wrench, lay the tool against the inside edge of a grip, then bang on the tool with a mallet. Make sure to avoid leaving scrapes on the handlebar.

Many chrome-plated accessories, as well as any chrome components can be de-rusted with dry steel wool. Use a fairly coarse grade, and wear gloves. You’ll find that unless the rust is quite thick, it wipes away quite easily, and entirely.

Seat Post

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Removing a stuck seat pillar, more commonly known as ‘seatpost,’ can be frustrating if you don’t know these tricks:

1. Soak the accessible area with penetrating oil. Lacking that specific oil, using a thin oil, such as WD-40 will often work. Patience is also helpful. If you can wait as long as a week, the oil may work surprisingly well. You might think that the seat pillar is stuck all the way down, and the oil couldn’t possibly reach the worst area. Actually, the bulk of corrosion happens near the top, where the oil will penetrate.

2. Depending on the design at the top of the seat pillar, and assuming the reason it’s stuck isn’t because the seat pillar was too large in diameter for the seat tube, you might try tapping it down with a hammer first. A mild impact at the top won’t hurt most seat pillars, yet it may break the bonds of corrosion. Then, you can reinstall the saddle, and twist and pull the seat pillar out.

3. Use an air impact hammer. These things, also known as ‘muffler cutters,’ can be had for as little as $10 at Harbor Freight.

The tool is used most often for cutting through sheet metal, but many attachments are available. There is a moving weight inside the tool that rapidly hits an attachment. Some of the attachments are chisels. Others have blunt ends. You’d use a blunt-end tool against the top of the seat pillar to remove it. If the seat pillar is still resistant, or if there is no expanded top, you can use a chisel attachment to cut partially into the pillar, so you can then get a bite on it with a blunt tool. This will ruin the pillar, but save the bike. Your author has never seen a seat pillar in over 15,000 bikes that was so stuck an air impact hammer couldn’t remove it.

The air hammer is great for removing other stuck things as well. For instance, the cotters in old-fashioned cottered cranks were often so corroded, or sometimes physically distorted that the only way to remove them besides drilling, which took too long, was to blast them with an air hammer.

Drilling a Seat

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You have probably seen those solid plastic saddles that are the bare minimum bicycle seat. They are usually a bit too hard to be comfortable. Some of those seats can be drilled with large holes, typically 1/2-inch (13mm) in diameter in a pattern. The edges of the holes can then be chamfered (rounded) with a countersinking bit, Dremel tool, or otherwise. For best results, drill only the wide portion of the saddle. Too meany holes near the horn may cause the saddle to fracture. When you’re done, you have a nice-looking seat that weighs less than any other seat money can buy.

Bearings

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More and more, bicycles are using sealed bearings, self-contained units that are press fitted into hubs, bottom brackets, headsets, and even sometimes derailleur pulleys.

The older cone-and-cup style bearings should be manually overhauled periodically to clean out tired lubricant and inspect for damage. This is true even if they are ‘sealed’ since the seals on this type of bearing are less than ideal. The most frequent place you’ll find damage is on the bearing cones. They are case-hardened, so that the outer surface is very durable. However, the outer surface can break away, revealing softer metal underneath. Bearing components in this condition only get worse with time, eventually leaving the rider stranded.

Many components containing these bearings use thin metal cages than rotate with the balls in a group. The cage imparts very little friction, and is there only to make assembly easy. Other cone-and-cup bearing assemblies use loose steel balls. You’d find it frustrating to keep these balls in position while reassembling the device. Therefore, grease is used to hold the bearings in place during assembly. Many mechanics like white lithium grease not only because the lithium particles make a good lubricant, but because the grease is white, it is easy to see that the balls are properly positioned.

All the older style freewheels used what seemed like a thousand 1/8-inch steel balls as bearings. Most actually had 78 balls. These, like bearings elsewhere, should be cleaned and lubricated from time to time. To disassemble an old-style freewheel, bang gently on one of the holes on the top of the core with a small blunt punch and hammer. These holes will turn a plate that is left-threaded, so your goal is to turn it clockwise to remove.

Do this over a rag, as all the bearings will fall out. Clean, then reassemble, sticking the bearings into their races retained by grease. Leave space for one or two balls in each race. Take care of very thin metal shims in the core of the freewheel because they are easily damaged. The freewheel, which normally doesn’t need bearing adjustment, is adjusted by adding or removing shims. In some models, the pawls (flippers) need to be held down with a thread during assembly. The thread is then pulled out. Finally, screw the top cover back on, and set it tight by banging gently with a blunt punch and hammer.

Most rear derailleurs use simple sleeve bearings for the pulleys. These should also be disassembled, cleaned and lubed now and then.

Rapid Diagnosis

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Many bike mechanics have to work with the public when it comes time to assess a bicycle for repair. Some of the mechanics worry about how to handle the situation. They may not know exactly what to look for, and how to present what they find. In many cases, the mechanics miss noticing important problems that the customer should know about before leaving the bike for repair. For instance, if the shop sells a tune-up, without realizing a wheel is so bent that it cannot be repaired, the customer may balk, and you have a ‘situation’ on your hands. So, do this:

1. Apply the front brake, and rock the bike back and forth? Is the headset loose?

2. Lift the front wheel a couple of inches. Does it flop to one side? If not, the headset is too tight.

3. Spin the front wheel and see if it is true. Notice whether the brake drags.

4. Stop the wheel, and see whether it is loose enough that the heaviest part will swing to the bottom. Wiggle the wheel sideways by holding the tire, and see if the bearings are loose.
5. Examine the tires for wear, sidewall bulging, and seating issues.

6. Spin the rear wheel and see it it is true. Notice whether the brake drags.

7. See whether the rear wheel spins freely, and whether the bearings are loose. Very loose bearings may indicate a broken axle. If it’s not a quick release wheel, try spreading the dropouts apart with your thumb. With a broken axle, they’ll flex outward.

8. Squeeze all the spoke crossings on the rear wheel. If a spoke is broken, it will be evident.

9. Spin the chainwheel backward while observing the chain. Are any pins sticking out of links?
10. Move the shifters just enough to see if the derailleur cables are working correctly.

11. Squeeze the brake levers, looking for too much travel, slow or weak return, and other brake problems. Examine bridge wires if equipped for broken strands. Examine the brake cables at the anchor bolts and at the break levers for broken strands.

12. Suggest accessories as appropriate.

As you make discoveries, write them down with the customer watching and available to ask questions. If several adjustments are needed, suggest a tune-up. Quite often, a customer will come in for a single repair, such as a flat tire or a bent wheel, and end up with much more repair work. If the customer is informed and consents up-front, everyone ends up happy.

Or, you can do it the way it is done in many bike shops. When the customer comes in for something like a broken brake cable, the mechanic or salesperson fails to look at anything else on that bike. During the brake cable replacement, the mechanic notices that the wheel is out of true because it has broken spokes. The customer is called, and suddenly a $15 repair becomes $50. The customer is not happy, but agrees to pay the extra. When the customer picks up the bike and takes it for a ride around the block, s/he discovers that the derailleurs are out of adjustment and the chain falls off. This is not a happy customer. Furthermore, this process can turn a bicycle enthusiast into someone who owns a bike but never rides it.

This bicycle examination may sound like a complex operation, but with just a bit of practice, you’ll remember the steps, and become able to do the whole thing within two minutes.

Fast, Full Tune-Up

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Many bike shops charge $50 or $60, and sometimes even more for a tune-up. Then, they barely make a profit. That’s because the mechanic spends a whole lot of time going back and forth, not quite knowing a good sequence, and even misses noticing some things that need adjustment. I’d like to suggest learning this step-by-step process to speed your tune-up time, and make sure you catch every detail. With a tune-up procedure like this, your shop can charge $30 per bike, making a large profit, and end up with a zillion customers bringing their bikes in for service. Keep in mind, too, that you can sell tires, additional repairs and accessories to almost every tune-up customer.

1. Adjust the headset if it is an adjustable headset. (This is done first, because it is best done before the bike is mounted in the workstand.)

2. Adjust the bottom bracket set if it is adjustable.

3. Adjust the front wheel bearings if adjustable.

4. Adjust the rear wheel bearings if adjustable.

5. Adjust the rear brake, check spoke tensions, and true the rear wheel on the bike.
(I consider adjusting the brake and aligning the wheel a single procedure, since a bent wheel prevents good brake adjustment, and you can use a properly adjusted brake to witness wheel condition. During this process, I typically keep a spoke wrench and an adjustable wrench in my hand.)

6. Adjust the front brake, check spoke tensions, and true the rear wheel on the bike.

7. With the chain engaged on the largest chainring, adjust the rear derailleur.

8. Shift to the smallest front chainring, and check rear derailleur adjustment.

9. With the chain engaged on the largest rear sprocket, adjust the front derailleur.

10. With the chain engaged on the smallest rear sprocket, check the front derailleur adjustment.

11. Check all the nuts and bolts on the entire bike, especially accessories. Make sure to check brake pivot bolts, the bolt that mounts the rear derailleur if equipped, the derailleur tension pulley bolt, the front derailleur cage closing bolt, cotterless crank mounting bolts or nuts, pedals, cable anchor bolts, and handlebar stem.

12. Adjust the air pressures.

13. Test ride the bike. You’ll be amazed at what you can miss, even if you’ve tuned thousands of bikes.

14. Spend just a few minutes cleaning the bike. With a rag, you can quickly attend to the spaces between spokes. With a rag and a bit of furniture polish – or your choice of mild chemical treatment – you can quickly rub down all the major frame tubes. A bit of coarse, dry steel wool can work rapid magic on rusty chrome surfaces.

What an unexpectedly cleaned bike can do for customer satisfaction is remarkable. Cleaning bikes that are in for service is one of the best ways to make your bike shop go viral.

People who perceive that you’ve done something wrong will tell their friends, and that, of course, is bad for business.

People who are merely satisfied with your work won’t tell their friends.

But people who get an unexpected pleasant surprise will tell everyone, and you can end up with much more repair work.

Your author used to go one extra step, and that’s probably why his bike shops grew rapidly and were quite profitable. When a bike came in missing a water bottle, I’d put one in their bottle rack. It didn’t matter if they already had a bottle at home, or didn’t like the color. They loved the thought. Sometimes, I’d add a tire pump, new grips, handlebar tape, reflectors, whatever I thought the customer would appreciate. Sure, this cost a few dollars per bike, but it was cheaper than advertising, and way more effective!

Inventory And Supplies

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In most of the United States as well as the rest of the world, the owner of a bicycle shop gets a sales tax number, often called a ‘resale certificate.’ This authorizes you to collect sales tax. Now, that’s probably not something that excites you, but the flip side is that you can contact wholesale bicycle suppliers and get inventory and supplies for much less money. Generally, an item that sells for $20 will cost you $10. It’s a sliding scale. An item that sells for a dollar will cost you fifteen cents. An item that sells for $500, will cost you $400.

You may not be in a position to get a resale certificate. You may not have a commercial building, instead working out of your house, or running a mobile bicycle repair business. You might not be in business at all, but wouldn’t mind getting your hands on wholesale prices.

Due to eBay and other online venues, it is becoming easier to convince wholesalers that you are a ‘legitimate’ buyer. Some will require a genuine retail store. Some even have protected dealerships, meaning if someone sells the same brand within a certain distance, you cannot sell the same brand. Others are loosey-goosey. Some only require that you spend $50 or more at a time.

You don’t always need to deal with wholesalers to get good prices. You’ll find many good deals on not only new, but also interesting used and even collectible bicycle parts on eBay.

For general repair work, you’ll find adequate cables, brake pads, inner tubes, tires, and a few other common replacement parts at stores like Walmart and Target. Interestingly, these parts can be as inexpensive as wholesale in small quantities.

For more specialized parts, you might want to visit your local bike shops. If you are running a small repair business, tell them. Most will be supportive, offering a small discount, so they’ll get all your business. To the average bike shop, it is well worthwhile to give ten or twenty percent discounts to regular customers.

Lubrication

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The reason pedals, seat pillars, cranks, and nuts and bolts often become stuck in bicycles is corrosion. There is also an effect called ‘electrolytic action’ in which electrons of dissimilar metals trade orbits. So, when you put a steel bolt into an aluminum component, they almost weld together over time.

A tiny layer of lubrication stops electrolytic action and corrosion in their tracks. So, it is recommended when you reassemble cranks, install seat pillars, put on pedals, or assemble nuts and bolts, that you always use a tiny bit of oil or grease. Years later, you’ll be glad you did.

You may find that a bit of grease when assembling brake and derailleur cables makes a world of difference in smoothness, ease of use, and long life.

You’d think after all these years, someone would have invented the perfect chain lube by now. They haven’t. Every oil this author has tried either gathers dirt, or doesn’t lubricate well.

An interesting aside: Years ago, your author read a book on bicycle repair by an American author. He recommended using paraffin wax as a chain lubricant, going so far as to describe how you could melt the wax in a coffee can, then soak the chain in it. Your author considered this absurd, but thought it might be worth a try, just in case it was for real. It quickly became evident the author made the whole thing up. My chain was so stiff with wax that it almost couldn’t be put on the bike. Then, when the bike was ridden a hundred meters, all the wax chipped off, leaving no lubrication at all.

In time, this author figured out what happened with that author. He had read an English book on bicycle repair that suggested cleaning a bicycle chain with paraffin, which in England can mean kerosene. Figuring the original English author had probably said “cleaning” when he meant “lubricating” he went ahead and wrote up a procedure the he never actually tried.

No doubt, I too, have made some errors in this book, although my goal is accuracy. It helps that I have some experience, having repaired or customized more than 15,000 bikes over a 15-year period, while owning and operating three bicycle shops.

Enjoy, experiment carefully, and keep the world’s bikes running! – Jeff

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Five Years In The Bike Shop

Copyright 2013 – 2024, John Flaherty

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There was once a little bicycle shop, ordinary in every way, except for the people associated with it. Brian the owner, the employees, and many of the customers were the most interesting and eccentric people I have ever met. That’s what this book is about. I have changed the location and the names to protect those involved. Everything else is true, exactly as it happened. The bike shop lasted five years before it came to a strange end. Welcome to the story of the shop and it’s people. Continue reading Five Years In The Bike Shop

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The Right and Easy Way to Work with Bicycle Tires

Working with flat tires is easier if you know these things:

1. First, make sure the problem is not just a loose or damaged valve stem. Put a bit of water or spit on a fingertip, and press very lightly against the top of the valve. If you see bubbles, you may need only to tighten or replace the valve core.

2. Use blunt objects to remove the tire, or you may end up with additional holes in the inner tube.

3. Feel carefully around the inside of the tire while looking at the outside. Whatever created the hole in the inner tube may still be sticking through the tire.

4. To be nice to the environment, try to patch the inner tube instead of replacing it. If you use a conventional patch kit with liquid glue, let the glue dry fully before applying the patch. This point is so unbelievable to many people who have not worked with contact cement that I will repeat it: Let the glue dry fully before applying the patch.

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5. It is possible to replace most tires without using tools. Put just enough air in the inner tube for it to hold its donut-like shape. Set the tube in the tire. Check that the rim strip properly covers the spoke nipples all around the wheel. Push the valve half-way into the valve hole on the rim. Starting at the valve, and working around both sides of the wheel, finally meeting at the side of the wheel opposite the valve, press the tire over the rim. Once one side of the tire is on the rim, push the other side over the edge of the rim in the same way.

6. Push the valve toward the tire to make sure the inner tube is not pinched under the edges of the tire, then pull the valve stem out of the hole to its normal position.

7. Inflate the tire to just a few pounds per square inch (PSI). Inspect the tire all the way around both sides of the wheel to be sure it is seated properly. Then inflate the tire to its full rated pressure for street riding, and to a pressure of at least 30 PSI for off-road use.

8. Keeping tires inflated properly is important for the long life of your wheels. When you hit the edge of a pothole or a tree root with underinflated tires, the rims can become kinked.

 

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Reflecting Upon Bicycle Reflectors

Upon reflecting on typical bicycle reflective equipment, I have come to the conclusion that reflectors are unnecessarily heavy, ugly, expensive, and sometimes they even rattle. Here’s a nifty tip to do away with reflectors.  Buy reflective tape from your bike shop or hardware store. Artistically cut and apply pieces of reflective tape to the frame and fork of your bike.  Reflective tape works just as good as big old reflectors, but weighs far less, looks nicer, is easier to keep clean, costs less, and lasts longer.